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1G The 4g63 headgasket fiasco....

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
The time has come, today I will be tearing the engine apart...AGAIN. I have been in contact with raif at rrt and I will be dropping off a block for oringing. I didn't antisipate I would be having this much trouble keeping an engine together....I am on my 3rd headgasket in 1 year. The first two headgaskets were composite and went not to long after 30psi. The mls headgasket started leaking at close to 40psi. When I say my headgasket went I mean that during a leakdown test I noticed a tiny bubble in the radiator. The engine still runs strong and doesn't push coolant. I'll keep updating along the way....
 
The time has come, today I will be tearing the engine apart...AGAIN. I have been in contact with raif at rrt and I will be dropping off a block for oringing. I didn't antisipate I would be having this much trouble keeping an engine together....I am on my 3rd headgasket in 1 year. The first two headgaskets were composite and went not to long after 30psi. The mls headgasket started leaking at close to 40psi. When I say my headgasket went I mean that during a leakdown test I noticed a tiny bubble in the radiator. The engine still runs strong and doesn't push coolant. I'll keep updating along the way....


Good luck man! That is a lotta HG's in short time.
 
Torque the head like a man and you won't need to oring it. We have been to 1000hp without orings. I have done then every way. Block, head, block with head receiver groove.

Obviously prep work, surfaces and a quality (hold back a little) tune goes a long way.
 
Torque the head like a man and you won't need to oring it. We have been to 1000hp without orings. I have done then every way. Block, head, block with head receiver groove.

Obviously prep work, surfaces and a quality (hold back a little) tune goes a long way.
The question is for how long......I could run my car forever around 30psi, the minute the boost starts creeping past 35 this is were all my trouble starts
 
This is a drag only race car I am referencing this time. 83mm borg Warner turbo, 57psi, 300hp shit of nitrous. 3 seasons with a lot of dyno time and maybe an average amount of track time(30-40 passes). The only reason i had to pull the motor is it fell victim to the famous 7 bolt crankwalk.

As I said, the tune and prep go a long way. And using big boy torque numbers. Motors aren't the problem, it is trying to figure out how not to kill automatic transmissions. And converters. On the 4th converter and numerous sets of clutches and hard parts. Leaving with 40-50psi kills parts quickly.

Once we figured out how to keep the car cool, our salt flat car could go an entire event and not have issues. It was every pass until we figured out how to keep the car cool while standing on it for 5 miles.

To ensure the correct way and not fart around pretending crappy machining will fix youelr issue, you need to oring the block and have a receiver groove cut in the head. Doing just the block or just the head will never work with longevity or the success you want it to.

My personal stuff is just high torque with good prep work.
 
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I am no longer using oem gaskets after seeing the hks gasket. What a beautiful gasket....I'm being told by multiple sources different things. Raif at rrt believes that without orings these engines are not reliable after 500hp,referring to the headgasket.Others say that the composite is good to 40 psi. I made sure that both mating surfaces met the correct ra. I used l19s and installed them correctly, chasing out each thread beforehand and used the Arp moly lube. My tune was conservative with low to average timing for e85. Still couldn't get it to seal???

I have a freaking summit racing catalog in my closet..... name it I got it

Work starts boys

Almost done
 

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The best sealing combo I've used is new oem head castings, l19's, and the felpro mls gasket. The hks stopper gasket also works really well from everything I've heard.
 
I wish I could buy a new head, I'm tempted to buy an evo. I hate buying used shit.

Interested in seeing the headgasket..... getting closer. Here's alil better shot of my recirculated setup I made.
 

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I bet that fits like a glove! Hey I see you wrapped everything like I did, do you ever see your header "glowing" ? I did 1 pull in 3rd the other night and came home, popped the hood to see mine reminding me of a Evo on a dyno pull. I let it run and cool for 5 minutes before I shut her off.
I looked at the log you posted, do you ever get close to your limiter? I think you have more left on the table in revs, but didn't know what you were comfortable with. Love the updates man!
 
A proper prep work of the block & head is essential , I use cometic gasket with no problems (no oring) for 3 years @ 44 - 50 psi . What didn't like the high boost was my eagle rods haha gasket was still good l19 / 95 lb
 

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A proper prep work of the block & head is essential , I use cometic gasket with no problems (no oring) for 3 years @ 44 - 50 psi . What didn't like the high boost was my eagle rods haha gasket was still good l19 / 95 lb
I use a Cometic, no oring and a very good snug on the L19's, definately not what is recommended but like Biglady does, put that thing on and hold it down. So far, it has went thru one run at 44lbs but I backed it off to 40 or less. I have tested at 9000 and 44lbs so I have decided those should be my limits and not exceed 40 or 8500. I run Manley rods and pistons with a ceramic coat and a Eagle crank, all balanced just for reference to all.
L19's at 115. :shhh: :thumb:
 
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I can get any gasket to seal and hold. Except for the copper head gaskets regardless of manufacturer.

110lbs is where mine is set to. Sometimes 115 on the six bolts. The engines are torque plated to those torque specs during machining.

I have been as high as 120lbs on stock head bolts. That held 510whp forever with a factory mitsu mls gasket on a bone stock 4g61 short block. Good for high 10's low 11's at over 140mph here in denver in my Colt.
 
I use a Cometic, no oring and a very good snug on the L19's, definately not what is recommended but like Biglady does, put that thing on and hold it down. So far, it has went thru one run at 44lbs but I backed it off to 40 or less. I have tested at 9000 and 44lbs so I have decided those should be my limits and not exceed 40 or 8500. I run Manley rods and pistons with a ceramic coat and a Eagle crank, all balanced just for reference to all.
L19's at 115. :shhh: :thumb:
Have you done a leakdown test? I'm really curious how many guys actually test their motors. My car wasting pushing coolant or overheating. I just happened to leakdown my motor and saw a bubble or two
 
If 100psi during a test is pushing air past the gasket 1500+ psi at peak torque is going to push coolant.
The car didn't push coolant. I checked every time I came back in......it's weird, the overflow bottle was the same as it always was. Maybe I caught it before it got really bad....

Getting closer
 

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No leakdown teat. I drive it and tweak it as needed. No coolant loss or problems. It really gets beat on 50% of the time. Just want facts of the matter out there, be it good or bad. Glad to share.
 
No idea guys

You tell me guys?

Well my ring install was perfect, my crosshatch is still visible

Pain in my anus

Head assembly
 

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