2G No start, has fuel and spark, ECMlink,E85,PTE1600cc

Bluefire16 · Apr 23, 2017

Hi guys,

Car ran great last fall before I put it away for winter. Over winter I changed the setup. I installed the following.

HX35
SMIM
Tubular Manifold
Tial WG
FMIC (already on car)
ECMlink v3
Wally 450
Motor mounts
SD kit
PTE 1600cc
Waldron fuel filter and new 6an lines
AFPR set to 43psi
Timing is on point
Grounds are good
Battery is fully charged

So theres a quick rundown, theres a quick rundown. Car ran great no issues. Switched to e85, turned on link set base fuel at -58.2% and 450 usecs. Car wont start. Compression is fine, the motor itself has not been touched other than the bolt ons.

Injectors have been tested, taken out, manually tested. Car is getting fuel.

Spark has been checked and verified, I see the plugs arcing, checked both coil packs and plugs/wires.

Looking for some other input, it has the 3 basic, air, spark, fuel.

I put my stock 450s in and it ran for a bit, roughly but at least ran. Since cleaning and trying my 1600ccs, nothing. However i have taken them out of the car and "bumped them" and they spit e85 fuel just fine.

What do you think it could be? At this point I am guessing it must be something with the tuning on e85 in link.

jon95dsm · Apr 24, 2017

Bluefire16 said:
Blew a fuse and no stores locally carry 150ANL fuses close to me so till tomorrow i cant do anything. Car is almost firing and at -53.1 and 450 usecs. Seemed like it was almost firing better at 450 usecs than 500.

The PTE 1600 injectors aren't on the list because they are just modified Bosch plugs. In ecmlink it says to set them at 450 deadtime.

If i can find another fuse I can try more tonight, as far as wideband idk how to log it .

Alright stay 450 then. The increased global will help for now. Gl finding a fuse.

For the wideband, look at the post where I showed the picture of my inputs tab. You already have your wideband running to the rear o2 ecu pin for narrowband sim so you just need to tell the datalogger where it is and what it is using that table. Then on a live datalog you can right click and choose captured values. Add your wideband, start a new datalog, then right click and choose displayed values and you'll be able to add the wideband on your log.

91talonts1 · Apr 24, 2017

What jon95dsm said is right. You need to assign the pins for the logging side of things, as that's the only way you or anyone else will be able to view them.

Unless you have your foot on the gas during both of those logs, your tps is way out of adjustment. And your idle switch is not working.

1990TSIAWDTALON · Apr 24, 2017

Agree with all the helpful posts here. It's always a hold your breath moment when you change so much at once. All the LITTLE things add up to a no start issue. Get all the LITTLE things that have been mentioned squared away then play with your deadtime to get it started initially as long as the global us close. I will bet you will have to "play" with both. GL, I've been there, just hang in there and follow these helpful guys!

Bluefire16 · Apr 24, 2017

I think part of my problem is I had to eliminate my front o2 sensor, and idk how to assign it to simulate. The kid said he did but i think its wrong.

And he said he set my tps LOL

91talonts1 · Apr 24, 2017

Your wideband is setup to simulate the narrowband via the rear o2 pin. We can't see it in the log though until you do what jon95dsm told you.

That shouldn't cause a no start anyway. O2 sensor doesn't do anything during cranking or after starting for a short while.

jon95dsm · Apr 24, 2017

Bluefire16 said:
I think part of my problem is I had to eliminate my front o2 sensor, and idk how to assign it to simulate. The kid said he did but i think its wrong.

And he said he set my tps

The TPS box isn't checked. The values have been changed but its not turned on. I wouldn't expect that to cause it to not start though. Also since the intake was changed, was the throttle adjusted properly?

Brembo · Apr 24, 2017

Disconnect injectors, floor it, spray some starting fluid while cranking with the help of a friend into manifold thru a bov hose or booster hose. If your friend wears stylish hair style make sure you tell him that their is a small chance of backfire and he might loose some of his hair/eyebrows. If it starts then it's a fuel problem, if it don't then we need to go back and analyze the situation.

Bluefire16 · Apr 25, 2017

A buddy has been helping and here is a recent log, its almost firing.

jon95dsm · Apr 25, 2017

It's good you're seeing some results but some of the settings make no sense at all. You said further back in your thread that you're using the OmniPower MAP sensor plugged into the stock MDP plug but your inputs tab now has "baro" listed as the MAP input. That needs to be changed back to MDP. The adjustments to your InjBatteryAdj tab are adding a ton of deadtime. Put that table back to stock and make your initial fuel adjustments using the Fuel and Speed Density tabs. Realistically with what the Direct Access tables look like now, you'd be better off putting them all back to stock values and making adjustments using the settings in ECU config until you can get it idling and take a datalog.

It's good you got the first half of logging your MAP and IAT sensors done but we still need them added to the datalog to be able to see them.

jon95dsm said:
Then on a live datalog you can right click and choose captured values. Add your wideband, start a new datalog, then right click and choose displayed values and you'll be able to add the wideband on your log.

Do this part, but choosing your MAP and IAT sensors instead of wideband. Once they're listed as captured values we'll be able to see them on future logs.

jon95dsm · Apr 25, 2017

Since you're still new to tuning it would be best to just leave all of the direct access settings alone until you know exactly what you're changing and why you're making that change. You can accomplish most of what you need to do from the ECU config settings.

Bluefire16 · Apr 27, 2017

jon95dsm said:
Since you're still new to tuning it would be best to just leave all of the direct access settings alone until you know exactly what you're changing and why you're making that change. You can accomplish most of what you need to do from the ECU config settings.

I havent changed any of the direct access myself, it has been a buddy. He is using a friends ecmlink file, who is running the same setup as me to try and get it running.

Bluefire16 · Apr 27, 2017

Also, I am seeing voltage drop from a new battery to 8.9 or 9.5 when I crank. It happens for just a second then hits 10-11ish range while trying to crank.

Could my starter have gone bad? The other reason I think it may be bad is sometimes it cranks and just completly cuts power all together. I keep the key cranked and it kinda just pulses, but never even tries to turn the motor.

Btw, my battery is back to factory location and i have the main ground to the trans/engine, and a large gauge wire to the chassis (from the negative terminal). I also have a chassis ground on the smim.

This is a new battery btw, and I just put new plugs in.

Brembo · Apr 27, 2017

12.1 volts before cranking is fully dead battery and 12.6 is fully charged. I think we need to step back and think for a minute.

You have air....why you think you have air if you if it kind of just pulses? How you checked vacuum or compression? We need to spin the engine to have air. Check that starter connections and operation.

You have spark....how you have spark if we are not cranking?

You have fuel.....I think you flooded the engine by this time if you were cranking it for a long time.

You need to have at least 200 rpm to even try starting an engine. If you have rpm in ecmlink then you should have injector pulse. If you have spark then you should have fire if you pulling vacuum. disconect those injectors and run it on starting fluid or intall oem injectors and install mass and reset all settings to stock. Try cranking it over. If the engine is flooded disconnect injectors, remove sparkplugs and spin it to get the fuel out of cylinders.

Bluefire16 · Apr 27, 2017

For the sake of trying to get everything to run and make sure the car and just run properly I am going to set everything back to stock, drain the e85. Put in my 450s and run pump. Make sure the car is just running on the SD and regular gas first and go from there.

I got a long day ahead of me tomorrow.

Bluefire16 · May 9, 2017

I got teh car running, after putting everythign back to stock.

Does anyone no where i can get a stock map/settings for dsmlink for my 2gb?

I saw on ecmwiki for stock logs, however they are for older firmwares. My firmware is 3.2X and on the wiki its only for 3.19.

Just want to make sure the link ecu is correct and working, even on stock settings.

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2G No start, has fuel and spark, ECMlink,E85,PTE1600cc

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