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2G First time eclipse owner need help please!

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1997EclipseSpyderGST

Probationary Member
4
0
Mar 26, 2017
Foley, Alabama
Okay so to start off this is the first eclipse I've owned and the problems it's having has got me stumped so I'd appreciate it if someone can at least point me in the right direction. So it's a 1997 eclipse spyder GST. And the previous owner apparently built the engine (7 angle shave and adjusted springs) but it's been sitting for awhile so when I got it, it hasn't exactly ran right. So first thing is it's idling really rough. Also it doesn't seem to want to go over 40 miles an hour (I've only driven short distances but still notice it doesn't wanna go past 40), the engine just dies at random and the oil light comes on so I checked the oil level and everything seems fine with it and I haven't noticed any leaks, lastly it has a chatter coming from the top end of the engine on idle goes away as soon as you rev it a little. What I've done to the engine so far is simply changed the oil and spark plugs and made sure all my clamps are tighter like it's supposed to be. Also I put a computer on it and all that it read was the fuel pressure selonoid. If someone could please just point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it very much.
 
rough running can be fuel filter and injector--among many other thing, but need to start with basics first
you need to fill out your profile too
is the car an auto or a manual
the random dying and not going over 40 could be a few sensors or some bad wires
doing only 2 thing and asking for help make it hard as you need to look into more things
 
rough running can be fuel filter and injector--among many other thing, but need to start with basics first
you need to fill out your profile too
is the car an auto or a manual
the random dying and not going over 40 could be a few sensors or some bad wires
doing only 2 thing and asking for help make it hard as you need to look into more things
You're right, my apologies. I'll get back with you when I've done everything with the fuel, thanks for your help
 
Do you have a way to watch oil pressure when you're driving it? These cars are known to have bad lifter tick so that's likely what you're hearing from the head. If it bothers you too much you can switch them for revised 3g lifters. It won't go away entirely but it'll be a lot better than with the original ones.
 
When i bought mine. First thing i did was replace every single gasket, vacuum line, hose, and filter. Flush the coolant system when you put new hoses on too. Sounds like you started some maintenance already so finish er up before you do anything else. Order new injector seals and o rings too. Take off and inspect everything. It will save you peace of mind in the future. Have fun learning your car!
 
Anytime a vehicle sits for a while you can kiss the gas quality good bye. I'd follow what has already been mentioned before but when you drain the tank, take the back sit out and remove the cover on the passenger side and remove the wiring and hoses on the cap there. I believe it's a 8mm to take off the nuts. If you have one use a liquid transfer pump (or get on) and drain the tank that way. I've noticed that if it sits for a while, water condensates inside the tank. You can also use that time to see what trash is in there and get it out. After you get that buttoned up, I'd take the filter off and turn the pump on after you put fresh gas it in to flush the line before putting in the new fuel filter. My car has ecmlink, so I used that to turn on the pump. And since my battery was out I used a jumper pack (carefully not to make sparks) to connect the leads. That's usually my method to drain the tank and lines. If you don't have link, you'll have to do the old fashion way and turn the key on and off a few times. After draining the line to the filter, I then disconnected the return line and hooked up another line that went to a collection can and did the same to drain the remaining fuel line and rail.
 
Anytime a vehicle sits for a while you can kiss the gas quality good bye. I'd follow what has already been mentioned before but when you drain the tank, take the back sit out and remove the cover on the passenger side and remove the wiring and hoses on the cap there. I believe it's a 8mm to take off the nuts. If you have one use a liquid transfer pump (or get on) and drain the tank that way. I've noticed that if it sits for a while, water condensates inside the tank. You can also use that time to see what trash is in there and get it out. After you get that buttoned up, I'd take the filter off and turn the pump on after you put fresh gas it in to flush the line before putting in the new fuel filter. My car has ecmlink, so I used that to turn on the pump. And since my battery was out I used a jumper pack (carefully not to make sparks) to connect the leads. That's usually my method to drain the tank and lines. If you don't have link, you'll have to do the old fashion way and turn the key on and off a few times. After draining the line to the filter, I then disconnected the return line and hooked up another line that went to a collection can and did the same to drain the remaining fuel line and rail.
Turning key off and on does not fire fuel pump. All 4g63 cars have a factory jumper conection under the hood.
 
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I used to have a 95 Accord EX. When my spark plug wires went bad I couldn't step on the gas hard otherwise it would sputter and slow down the car. I would press on the gas pedal lightly and it took about 10-20 seconds to reach 40 mph or sometimes 50 mph, but no more that.

Another episode I had was when the coil in my Accord was about to go bad. It idled rough (rmp needles bounces up and down) and would constantly dying on me until the coil finally died and the car wouldn't start, but only cranked.

Lastly, 10 years ago when one of the couplers near the inside front fender was torn, my Eclipse Gst wouldn't go past 50 mph. I couldn't floor it or press on the pedal to pick up speed otherwise it would sputter and even go slower. But if I press the gas pedal lightly I would pick up speed, but it would take about 15-30 seconds to get to 50 mph and maybe 60-65mph. As it started to get really bad because the tear was worsen and got bigger it allowed more air into the intake manifold, black smelling smoke would come out of the exhaust.

Just giving you a different scenarios for you, so you can rule out many possibilities. Good luck.
 
Good point. Ive got a trick I do to find vacuum links, might not work for you. But as one who vapes, I usually just take a huge puff from my e-cig and blow into an open vacuum line. if there is a leak somewhere i see it vapor trail, if not it usually just comes back out the air filter. The only issue with that is I might introduce a small amount of water vapor into the system. But if I feel like its going to be an issue I'll start the car up after to purge the system.
 
First thing I would do if you have not already is
- check compression
- timing
- leak down
If those are within spec move on to boost leak testing

Then check the condition of the spark plugs.

That is how I would approach it.

Low oil pressure? Was the pump primed before starting? Check pressure with aftermarket gauge not factory.
 
if it has sat that long and all you have done is oil and spark plugs--u need to do more
fuel filer, spark plug wires, etc check out the nebie section and read up on more info
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/
Hey man, I know it's been awhile but I need your help again. So I finished my maintenance on the eclipse (cleaned the gas tank and changed the filter). Also changed air filters and vacuums lines, but I still have that chatter that happens when the car heats up. It starts just fine and idles fine until the engine heats up and it starts burning gas rich and there's a chatter noise coming from the top end. If you could help me I'd appreciate it
 
You should really make a DSM profile and detail any parts you have. Helps us to help you.

Have you done the repetitive Boost Leak Test?
 
This won't be of much help but sounds to me like you may have bought someone else's abandoned problem. Oil pressure light AND valve train noise? Might be why it was sitting for a long time. It's why I sought out an un-modified GST Spyder. That said, there ain't nuthin that can't be fixed!
 
This won't be of much help but sounds to me like you may have bought someone else's abandoned problem. Oil pressure light AND valve train noise? Might be why it was sitting for a long time. It's why I sought out an un-modified GST Spyder. That said, there ain't nuthin that can't be fixed!
*with enough money.
 
If I were to do it ALL OVER AGAIN, automatic is the way to go. Less shock on drivetrain components, holds spool between gears.......and here I am stuck with this 5 speed car....:p
 
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