You have access to a welder? Tack a bolt to what's left of the stud and that should do the trick.

I wish I knew somebody with a welder, but I would have enough trouble just moving the transmission . It was a huge PITA to get my transmission across the parking lot of my apartment complex and up 3 flights of stairs... but unless I can get something done I might have to borrow my buddies truck and bring it to my school's machine shop where there's a mig and a tig welder.

If welding is out of the question:

• See if you can tap on the the next smallest SAE socket.

• If you have a dremel, you could slot what is left.

Yeah, welder is probably your best option. TIG will be more precise, and probably the best tool for the job.

You could try and extract it, but if you screw up the hole you're really boned...

Has anyone used any specialized sockets? Like grip tite or something? Just want to try all options before tacking a nut onto it (because of aforementioned reasons above)

Before the weld tacking a bolt idea, in case it was previously put on with some kind of permanent glue (eg. JB Weld or Loctite red), you might try some mild heat on the nut (propane or map gas) to break down the glue, let cool, and then use vise grips as tight as you can get them.

Simple way is get a cutting disc, 1mm thick ones and an angke grinder and cut the nut off! Suoer simple and i have had to do this to parts before that just dont budge, much easier then welding and since you dont have a welder its most likely your best choice, it will the just tap out after its off

^^^ I've had many problems trying to drill the hole for the tap so I use that as a last resort. Can't get drill to stay in center of bolt (even with punch) because it's uneven, drill always breaks, drill is not harder than bolt so won't stay sharp or just never goes in far enough and takes forever, tap breaks, etc, etc, etc. So while you still have a nut to grab onto I'd try my post 7 way first. What have you got to lose? Then if that doesn't work try ec17pse post 8 way. And if that doesn't work do the weld tack a bolt on option.
Of course keep in mind once you cut the nut off, you won't have anything to weld on to.

You can use turbo socket if you have them. I am guessing not. It digs into metal going in reverse. You would need to tap it on with hammer and just keep going smaller if it spins. I would use an impact gun on them just to shock the bolt loose. Did that yesterday and it worked like a charm. Second option is to drill it out. You would need reverse drill bit and centering punch and lube and ELECTRIC drill not air for the torque. You need to go slow and always lubricate and on center. And the third is to weld a nut now if you cut everything flush and start drilling then welding goes out the window. So I vote for welding because It's likely you don't have reverse or any kind of good drill bits and the knowledge to do it and it would cost you more money and time spend on buying and learning how to do it. So I vote for welding a nut on top while you can. Let us know how you got it out.

I would not cut the bolt off...... I would get the next size down deep well 12 point you can find and Bang it over the nut. You might have to grind a little off the sides but not much. I'd take a propane torche and heat the aluminum around the nut. If this doesn't work, welding is your only option. Whatever you do, don't cut it off...... you'll regret it

You can also grind two sides of the pivot ball/nut flat and put a wrench or crescent wrench on there.

These...https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...irwin+bolt+grip&rh=n:228013,k:irwin+bolt+grip

Welding a socket / bolt to it would definitely be the most secure option but if you don't have access to a welder or can't bring the transmission to someone then these are the next best thing. The teeth are reversed so they bite into the nut as you "loosen" it. Good luck.

^^^ These look good. I have a set and got them locally somewhere like NAPA or Home Depot. Pound the tightest fitting one you can on. Then while continually pushing it down with one hand (to keep straight and from coming off) jerk it hard in the loosen direction with your racket - do not just slowly rotate it.

I use these Irwin nut extractors all the time. I pound them on, then use the impact. I've even used them to remove stripped 6-bolt headbolts that someone stripped the 10mm allen heads.

Got it out with a craftsman bolt out socket set, hammered a 13mm over it and impacted it off. Thanks for all the help guys

Weak. Should have parted the car out...

Vegas smith said:

Weak. Should have parted the car out...

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haha thats funny

Vegas smith said:

Weak. Should have parted the car out...

Click to expand...

people that aren't car guys or dsmer's always ask me why I don't sell or part out my car if something breaks... rofl


A side note, the craftsmen bolt-out sockets seemed significantly more resistant to deforming the teeth that grip the rounded bolt/nut compared to the irwin set I also tried.