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1G Oil Squirters with CP Pistons

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JackStieben

Proven Member
200
21
Feb 11, 2014
San Antonio, Texas
I am currently gettinga 6 bolt with CP Carillo 9.0:1 pistons and eagle h-beams built. My engine builder/machinist told me that I needed to block off the squirters, because there wasn't a notch in the piston for the squirter. He claims that because it's an aftermarket forged piston, it won't need the squirters because it will already run cooler. Does anyone have input on this? He is a very respectable machinist in town who machines and builds 1000+whp engines so I trust him but I would like some DSMtuners input on this subject with my setup
 
If you block off the squirters (which still help cool the bottom of a turbo charged piston) then that controlled oil leak is no longer there so you will have a noticeable increase in oil pressure through out the rest of the motor which isn't always a good thing. Just something to think about.
 
I haven't run my car much, but had it built the same as my friend (CP's and Oliver rods). He ran 800+ for years without issues. Both were built by the same shop without squirters.
 
What about modifying them to fit? I had mine bent to clear the pistons. Blocking them off would definitely raise oil pressure elsewhere.
 
They warned me about them breaking. This is over 10 years ago when I had the engine built. I only have a few hundred miles on it since.
 
There will be substantial increase in oil pressure. This is the only reason I keep mine. Eliminating them is good as it is also one less failure point. Ask this guy who lost a set of expensive rods from an oil squirter falling into the oil pan.
 
I've always been a believer of leaving the squirters in as that's a major oil galley you're now dead heading and that oil has to go somewhere which in turn will raise oil pressure a lot and even worse with a thicker viscosity oil. You're going to have to port your relief in order to dump the unused volume of oil you are now dead heading when you plug the squirters. I've never lost an oil pump and I've never seen any bearing wear issues with my aluminum rod motor and I swing the ****** out to 10,000rpm a lot. I realize there's a lot more factors the come into play here but IMO the squirters should stay in and I run CP pistons with my squirters, they can work with CP pistons.
 
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If the main concerns are clearance, the oil squirter tubes breaking, and high oil pressure... why not cut the tube off at the base of the squirters? No worries about broken metal in the oil pan, clearance, or high oil pressure. You'll lose the cooling ability of the squirters without any down sides I can think of. Unless redirecting where the oil sprays would cause issues?
 
To sum it up:
Cons of removing
Increased oil pressure
Less cooling (OK if you went forged pistons since they can now take the heat)


Pros of Keeping
Oil pressure stays the same
Cooling of area sprayed
Failure mode eliminated (How often have you seen one fail?)

Meaning, it will only really effect oil pressure. Will it matter much, more then likely not. Ive seen them done both ways and Ive built both ways. Each worked out just fine.
 
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To sum it up:
Cons of removing
Increased oil pressure
Less cooling (OK if you went forged pistons since they can now take the heat)


Pros of Keeping
Increased oil pressure
Cooling of area sprayed
Failure mode eliminated (How often have you seen one fail?)

Meaning, it will only really effect oil pressure. Will it matter much, more then likely not. Ive seen them done both ways and Ive built both ways. Each worked out just fine.


May want to edit that. You state "increased oil pressure" as both a pro and a con. Pro would be DEcreased oil pressure which I think may be what you were meaning.
 
I'm glad this topic came up because I'm currently in the process of deciding if I to am gonna keep my oil squirters. I have had one break off on me and after making a crap load of noise in the motor, once it settled in the oil pan I did not have any more noise. I still drove the car for the next 4 days with no complications till I could have time to tear it apart and inspect to see what happened and broke. Also upon inspection I did not have any visual damage either. So it's really up to you and your preference if you want to take the risk or not. Then again everything we do to these cars are a risk. Some just more costly then others.

I've always been a believer of leaving the squirters in as that's a major oil galley you're now dead heading and that oil has to go somewhere which in turn will raise oil pressure a lot and even worse with a thicker viscosity oil. You're going to have to port your relief in order to dump the unused volume of oil you are now dead heading when you plug the squirters. I've never lost an oil pump and I've never seen any bearing wear issues with my aluminum rod motor and I swing the ****** out to 10,000rpm a lot. I realize there's a lot more factors the come into play here but IMO the squirters should stay in and I run CP pistons with my squirters, they can work with CP pistons.
If he/I were to port the excess oil what would be a good idea to do so?
 
I'm glad this topic came up because I'm currently in the process of deciding if I to am gonna keep my oil squirters. I have had one break off on me and after making a crap load of noise in the motor, once it settled in the oil pan I did not have any more noise. I still drove the car for the next 4 days with no complications till I could have time to tear it apart and inspect to see what happened and broke. Also upon inspection I did not have any visual damage either. So it's really up to you and your preference if you want to take the risk or not. Then again everything we do to these cars are a risk. Some just more costly then others.


If he/I were to port the excess oil what would be a good idea to do so?


I ported my OFH quite a lot and really probably to the limit. If you do decide to do it, do it at your own risk. Use my picture as the limit to go too. Any other questions shoot me a pm.

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