The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

TewTew the Blue Snail

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I spent all day Sunday December 18th, 2016 washing and waxing my car. It was a big job only because I had to remove a lot of sap from the pine tree in my front yard. Felt great after I was finished, and the car looks amazing now. Plan to remove all four wheels weekend after Christmas so I can clean them really well, and while I am at it clean the wheel wells. Should have her running the week after Christmas so I am super excited to finally be driving her after she has sat for the first six months I have owned her.
 
Finally getting to work on the car. Had to buy a shed so I could clear out my garage. Anyways on to the update, I got the transmission pulled Monday, and learned that the car has a Fidanza lightweight flywheel so now I gotta save to get a new insert for the flywheel before I put my stage 3 Comp clutch in. While pulling the transmission I found my drivers side rack and pinion boot obliterated, the drivers side CV Axle outer boot split into two pieces with no grease left in it, and found both passenger and drivers side ball joint all bad. Also, the Fidanza flywheel looks as if the previous clutch exploded because it has scratches every where. So, I have some things that I need to fix before I get the car going again so kinda bummed that it won't be running this week. I will update with pictures here soon.
IMG_2587.JPG
IMG_2586.JPG
 
Last edited:
An update on the car. Almost two months later, and my car still isn't running. Mainly because of lack of time as I am in the Air Force, and went TDY for a bit. Anyways, after I got back had to spend time with the wife the first weekend so this past weekend I actually got to get out in the garage. Torqued the new Fidanza insert to the flywheel then went to torque the flywheel onto the crank and wouldn't you know it the first time I have ever stripped a flywheel bolt.....I searched high and low in Panama City for a replacement bolt and a M12x1.25 Tap. I didn't find a bolt although I found a tap at sears, but it was in a $60 tap and die kit and I already have all of the other sizes in my current kit. So, I just ended up buying the tap on Amazon for $7, and went to extremepsi's website and got all 6 OEM flywheel bolts. While I was at it I decided to order a set of exhaust manifold studs since a couple of mine were broken off. I will update with some picture later of the stripped bolt and my goodies when they come in.
 
Okay have a small update for tonight. I got my M12-1.25 Tap in got all the flywheel bolt holes tapped, and installed new OEM 6-bolt flywheel bolts. Snapped a picture of the stripped bolt and I figured out why the bolt stripped. The previous owner used 7 Bolt(20mm) flywheel bolts instead of 6 bolt(22.5mm) flywheel bolts. So, finally got the transmission back in last night. Today I got the oil pan pulled and had a buddy of mine weld my -12an fitting on for the proper oil drain setup for a holset.

Here is the stripped flywheel bolt(20mm)
AEFB9CBA-FB72-4C87-AA66-8C2DE84DB17B.JPG


Next I snapped a picture of the transmission back in and torqued down.
ADB1B31A-EEAE-462B-93BF-B050B9CA962E.JPG

Next are Pictures of my oil pan which is in progress still which I will update with a final product tomorrow. I used Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer and Rust-Oleum Black High Temp Paint.
82ED3CD8-521D-4312-A28B-BC8DEF7527C4.JPG

BECB58C1-7FAF-4316-9EC3-098C90A95795.JPG


8E4A7C29-0F3A-4FFE-9AA6-15EC7CDBB156.JPG

More to come soon I will be installing the HX40 Pro and -12AN Oil Drain setup done right.
 
Okay my update for tonight doesn't have but one picture as I was working hard to get as much as I could done. Anyways the oil pan was dry and I was at the point where I could handle it so I got it installed. Then, I got the transfer case installed along with the drive shaft . After those were installed and torqued down I went on to install the axles after cleaning, greasing, and installing a new boot on the drivers side axle as it was torn. I got the axle nuts on and torqued down then moved onto getting the LCAs installed and tightened down since there is no way to get a torque wrench on it(I don't own any crows feet). Then, I pulled up on the whole assembly to put the bolt for the bottom of the strut on then torqued those down, and that was all the time I had tonight. I did happen to snap a picture of the oil pan before I threw it on.
60242ABD-C08F-4B42-89B0-97C2D9122DD9.JPG
 
Been a bit since I updated this as I have been working 12 hour shifts. I took this next week off to get the car running, but on the past two weekends I have pretty much got everything back together. I didn't get any pictures except for the ones that I snapped for help figuring out the wiring. I got the turbo, manifold, drain line, and feedline on the other weekend. Also, last weekend I ran into an issue with the radiator outlet being directly at the manifold so made a few calls, and found a great fab guy in the area. So, I ran the radiator over to him, and he cut the outlet off welded the previous hole shut, then moved the outlet over towards the passenger side on the radiator. After that was done I got the radiator in and all hooked up. This weekend I finished getting everything plugged back up, and got my ECU in. Tomorrow I will be installing all new vacuum line, and adding all the new fluids with hopes of starting her up. I still have a little work left to do like get my new boost gauge installed, and install the upper intercooler pipe.
 
It has been a long while since I have updated this build. Honestly, the car sat in my garage in florida for a year and a half, went through a hurricane, something fell on it during the hurricane and put a dent by the gas door, and then it sat outside at a family members house since mine was being repaired from the hurricane. I was moved by the military to Virginia about six months ago. I drove down and got the car and trailered her home. I finally have the funds to fix her so I spent the last week ordering roughly $4k in parts(She was parted out after I had shoulder surgery). My office is full of car parts atm and just waiting on a few more to get here before I start putting her back together. I am going a different route this time and I will be going with a Old School Green Turbo with 1220cc injectors. I will be updating this as I repair stuff and install stuff so pictures are in the future for my build thread!
 
New Update! Wish I would have taken more picture. To start, I pulled the transmission because the last time I had the car running I was having disengagement issues. So, I replaced the beat up Fidanza flywheel with an OEM 6-bolt flywheel after having it resurfaced and the step height checked and cut. Replaced the old clutch fork, TOB, and pivot ball with new ones. Then installed the transmission.

Next, I replaced the rusted exhaust manifold studs with new ones(I only did this due to the really bad rust from the car sitting for so long). I then ported the 2g manifold I bought from Rix Racing then installed it. I then removed the oil pan with the welded on -12AN bung and replaced it with a stock oil pan so I can use a 2g oil drain with my Old School DSM Green I bought from Justin. After the oil pan, I installed the turbo, oil feed from the filter housing, and the 2g oil drain. I then ported the O2 housing and installed it and threw the exhaust back on.

Now that the exhaust was finished, it was time to move onto the new fuel goodies. So, I proceeded to pull the old fuel filter and bracket, pulled the fuel rail and injectors, and removed the paint faded purple fuel lab AFPR. I then installed the new fuel lab 818 black fuel filter, which was pretty simple honestly. Next, I installed the new A1000 Aeromotive black AFPR. Lastly, I threw the new FIC1220cc injectors in and torqued the fuel rail back on.

Once all that was done, I installed the Fluidyne radiator and slim fans after removing the Honda half radiator. Then, I installed the JMF Coolant reservoir that I bought from JNZ Tuning.

Finally, I was at the point of BLTing which has been the most tedious part of the last 3 weeks of work I have done on the car. My worst boost leak was the front side between the throttle body elbow and the throttle body. I looked and noticed the bottom forward but wasn’t even tight. For the life of me, I could not get a wrench of any kind on the bottom forward stud nut. I pulled the elbow and cut the stud because it was hitting the elbow. I installed the elbow and that’s when I realized that I couldn’t get flare nut wrench, normal wrench, or even a stubby wrench on the nut. So, I pulled the elbow again and cut a little more of the stud to see if I could wiggle a closed end in there. That didn’t work sadly, but I realized the threads ended before getting close to being able to tighten down the elbow so off I went in search of a new stud in town, which I found at Ace Hardware. Score! So, I rushed home last night and cut the 100mm stud down to the length I needed and through it on. I was able to finger tighten the nut far enough now that there was clearance for the stubby 12mm to fit and I got it nice and snug. Did a boost leak test and sure enough boost leak was gone, BUT I now notice there’s a massive leak at the BOV flange ughhhh! And that’s where I called it a night last night. I will add pictures tonight after work.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top