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ECMlink Turned up the boost.....fp black

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
No
2). Verified mechanical timing?
yes
3). Verified base timing?
yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil:
Wire brand and Age:
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap:
stock coils, ngk n7s gapped 0.28
5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:155
Cylinder 2:155
Cylinder 3:155
Cylinder 4:155

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:

7). Compression ratio 8.3:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43
Injector Size (cc/min):pte 1000

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:lm2
Calibration Date:1 month ago

13). Type of fuel
Type:
Percent of Ethanol:ms100/93 mix

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?yes
Now that my injectors duty issue is resolved the took the car out and turned up the boost. Im starting to loose traction in 2-3 gear with 17inch enkei with quality tires. I cant believe how hard the car is pulling. each time I return i check compression and my plugs. The motor has 150 miles on it give or take. Just wanted to show you guys my progress
 

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The VE table still needs some work. You're running about a point rich toward redline.

Upload a good 3rd gear pull.
 
By that he means... From lower rpm ~2000 ish then go wide open throttle till redline...
From your log you don't go WOT till around 5k ish rpm...
Just an FYI since you say you are somewhat noobish to tuning, just being helpful :thumb:
I know noob for sure, I'm not afraid to admit it, I was being careful, I don't have a lot of room to really rip It. You get going really really fast. I'm purposefully running a little rich. I'd like to know what my cars putting down.
 
Hard to say. Upload a decent pull and it would be easier to interpret the data.

Also, verify the preferences in ECMlink for horsepower are accurate for your car.
 
In general each lbs/min is good for 9.5-10.5 hp. So 50lbs/min is good for roughly 500 (flywheel) hp. Ballpark drivetrain loss is ~15% So airflow is good for ~425 wheel hp. These are of course approximations...
Well the car feels very fast, I've build a few 300+ whp Hondas and one sti, this def feels faster. I'm gunna try to get a good pull.
 
You can export a 3rd gear pull from a link log into a csv file for virtual dyno. It's a very consistent way to measure gains. As long as you aren't getting any knock, or runnng lean in which case you abort the run, get a full pull from 2500 rpms to the rev limiter.
 
Virtual dyno is not mentioned much at all on these forums but it is used alot over on the evo forums. I use the program to compare pulls when making wot tuning changes alongside links info.
 
I know you said your running rich on purpose, but I'd suggest setting the AFR through the DA table instead of increasing values in the SD table. You want to be able to choose your AFR per cell instead of trying to recalibrate the SD table, makes things much easier. And as said earlier it'll make your airflow estimates more accurate.
 
Pay attention to your "widebandFactor" it should be damn near zero. This means that the estimate of the air coming in matches the actual air coming in. Right now your ecu assumes it is getting more air than you actually are (AFRestimate =11.1, LC1WB=10.1).

Also, if you look at your "HPperAir" number, you can multiply your lbs/min by that. Right now it is saying that you are making 7.5 hp per lb/min or ~375 crank hp. The better the tune the close you get to 10 hp/lb/min.

I think you also should unlock your IAT temp now that you are fully running SD. Anybody confirm this?
 
I use it on my evo. On accuracy its, meh. Lets just say, it isnt a dyno. It does however give you an idea. (I use it more for the data plots.)
I know several people who use virtual dyno correctly. When they took their car to a dynojet it was within a few hp of the virtual dyno. It's very important to use the correct weight, and do the pulls on a smooth flat road.

With my car, the virtual dyno results are extremely consistent. I can overlay several pulls and they are within 1-2% of each other.
 
Deff around 400whp prob. Also need to remember if your ve table is off the airflow numbers wont be correct. If your breaking loose in 2nd gear your deff over 400whp LOL
Just wait til he is turning the tires in 3rd, that makes you DRIVE the car and gets spooky...:D
 
I seem to get a better estimate from virtual dyno by using the Evo 3 option instead of eclipse gsx manual. Getting close to link estimate when Evo 3 is selected around 420hp and get 580hp when selecting the correct vehicle LOL.
 
I seem to get a better estimate from virtual dyno by using the Evo 3 option instead of eclipse gsx manual. Getting close to link estimate when Evo 3 is selected around 420hp and get 580hp when selecting the correct vehicle LOL.
If the weight is correct make sure the tire size is right and that you are doing 3rd gear pulls and selecting 3rd gear.
 
It should be the same but yours will be a 2nd gear pull. NO PULLS IN O/D....just making sure you know. :)
 
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