Wait till spring...

If you droped the conpression its going to be slower than stock, nothing compares to a turbo. Na is the usual intake header and exhaust. But i second just waiting for the new snail or you could get the stock turbo componentz on a budget to get her boosted again in stock form.

Upgade the cams, adjustable cam gears and tuning. Even then you will be chasing your tail for under 200 hp.

What do you have to enable tuning? Megasquirt? Fic? Something else? Don't up the fuel pressure anymore. If your running the stock ecu to control fuel. All your doing is making the car run richer than it needs.

What's the compression ratio of your pistons?

my vote is wait for spring which is like a month away.....

Everything is plug and play with my turbo stuff. I have a turbo injector harness with my resistor box wired into that I have a fic that wires into my ECU. My ECU doesn't regulate the fuel no more the stock reg is taken out and replaced I'm not sure what my comp is I got the car like this I asked how I would figure out the comp no one replied to me. All that's left for the re turbo is new injectors a turbo rebuild kit and a tune I just don't have that kind of money right now and what do u mean by adjust the cam gears , and new cams as in bigger lobs?

I run rich from like 1000-2500 after 2500 it seems to start to starve and it starts to lean out as the rpm rise

Adjustable cam gears so you can advance or retard the mechanical timing. And yes bigger cams.

Look down into the spark plug hole (might need a boroscope) and see what the Pistons look like. you can get a good idea from that and google images of low and high compression 420a Pistons. Most likely if the last person built it for boost they went low compression.

What you are describing is more of a tuning issue then. I have no messed with a FIC before but you should be able to add and remove some fuel in there via a laptop.

How do you upload a image here I see the icon but how to I add a picture in ?

I can show u my pistions and the fic is no longer in the car so should I just up the fpr?

How much power would come out of bigger cams and adjustable hears ?

And bigger cam and adjustable gears would help the turbo in the future right ?

Would I need anything else for the cams or just bolt them up ?

upload file and browse to where it is. your phone or computer might be freezing up or something. it literally couldn't be easier to upload photos compared to a year or so ago.

If the FIC is no longer in the car then the stock ECU is controlling fuel. Stop upping the fuel pressure regulator, its not going to fix anything.

NA wise with no way to tune the car (FIC is out of the car) you really wouldn't notice alot. Even BulletDSM with a fully built and tuned 12.5:1 420a only made 219hp and that with a hell of alot of work into it.

Cams would help more once the turbo is back in the car yes, but its still all in the tuning. you can't bolt parts up and expect to make max hp and tq.

You will need upgraded valve springs at the least.

I have crower springs and valves if that's what u mean .

Should I put my fic back in even tho it was on the tune ECU and for the turbo ?

I can't seem to figure it out at all but on the pistions there flat on top with very large indents on each side (wisco .50 over sn 1727C on top then under it 6580M88)

Ok so it's 8.8.1 - 58 chamber not sure what the chamber means ? I called wisco

6580m88 is the part number. They are low compression 8.8:1 Pistons and they are .020 over. Not .50 over.

No such thing as a half in over Pistons unless you want all your Pistons touching each other.

Even .050 is getting too thin on the cylinder walls.

I wish I could uploaded a pic my walls are thing asf less then a half inch for sure

Your not understanding what I am saying at all. I was not quoting cylinder wall thicknesses but piston sizes over standard size Pistons. You can't have a half inch oversized piston.

This is what my block looks like with .040" (40 over) high compression wiseco Pistons.

Twenty-thousandths of an inch (0.020") is roughly one-half of a millimeter (0.5 mm). Maybe you're getting confused there?

I'm meaning .050 not .50

I think you need to take a step back and figure out exactly whats running the car, what parts are installed and how its all being controlled.

There no reason you should be looking for max power when you don't have a good understanding of the build.

Knowledge is power.