how do I get my isc set at 30? I had it at 30 but was stupid and decided to ground with ecmlink to make sure my biss was adjusted right and now it reads this. isc test good, ecu is good, tps is good. I am new to this and would apreciate some knowledge, I also have a 3rd gear pull with knock at 7 degrees 5k rpm? I assume that's not normal, I will post that log too. how do I adjust my fuel/air to get the counts down? 1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? all good

2). Verified mechanical timing? yes

3). Verified base timing? yes

4). Ignition system stock
COP or Stock Coil:
Wire brand and Age: accell
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: brp7

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: yes
Throttle Cable: new
TPS:yes
BISS:yes

7). Compression ratio

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring? not that I'm aware of, no issues

9). Any DTC/CEL codes? no

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:37
Injector Size (cc/min):559cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:stock o2
Calibration Date:

13). Type of fuel
Type: 92 oct
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? over and over

heres new log attachments. I'm computer stupid. sorry.

with the engine running at operating temperature and rad fans off, log iscposition and adjust the BISS screw until you get it to 30 at idle. BISS screw directly affects isc position.

A wideband would really help out with figuring out if your mafcomp is correct.

Watch the videos a few more times, this tune needs some work.
Which version of ecmlink is this?

Wideband is ordered. And its v2.5. As far as my pull is that degree of knock bad? I will stay out of boost untill i learn more.

Help tuning the BISS here:






It's difficult to help with remote WOT tuning without a WBO2. Install one and post back.

^ Once properly calibrated.

Compare your WB with your AFRest. Use WBfactor to guide you in the + or - range you may need. Since your on MAF you will have to remove air; Thus increasing fuel in the range were you are knocking so much. More fuel will help.. And the same goes for the timing tab. If you still need it then pull timing to reduce the knock.

ok I played around with it a little bit and got my isc at 30[ log is 35 my heater was on] and no more knock at wot. I turned down the boost and lowered timing 1 degree and added fuel at those rpms. now my question is my maf and mafraw counts are off, they are suppose to be the same right? I'm lean at idle and cruise. heres some new logs.

How do you know you're lean? You don't have a wideband O2? Like I said before, install a WBO2 then post back. It's going to be hard to get decent help with remote tuning without a wideband to reference.

Also, you're not at WOT according to your log. Your throttle never gets over 70%. You need to make a manual adjustment to the TPS anyways, so sort that out.

Do you not have access to the DA tables with V3Lite? I don't see them captured in your log. I forgot how limited ECMlink V3Lite was...I'd seriously consider upgrading.

yes I am waiting for the mtxl to come in. if you look farther in the log there was a 100% throttle pull. its my dd so I'm just trying to make what I can in the normal specs. I was also able to to get my maf and mafraw counts pretty close as well as my airflowtorevs at 24. I will post those. and I know a widenand is needed asap. its v2 with v3 softare. not sure what a da table is. I have mafcomp/mafclamp sliders and such.

Ah, V2. That explains it. Not sure I've ever even seen an actual V2 log

My honest advice to you would be stop modifying and tuning the car until you get a more comprehensive list of modifications. And, considering this is your DD, if you have the stock components, I'd even recommend putting them back on until you've got everything you need to safely modify and tune the vehicle.

Ever wonder why DSMs have a horrible reputation for being unreliable? Well, I'd be willing to bet you'll find out soon enough if you keep on the path you're currently on.

If I were going to get the bare bones stuff for your build (assuming the mod list currently in your profile is accurate and ALL your maintenance is up to date ):

-Upgrade to ECMlink V3 full
-Fuel pump rewire and a better pump (Walbro 190 or 255 would be sufficient)
-Adjustable FPR
-Some kind of upgraded intercooler
-WBO2

With the short list above, you're looking at ~1k plus in parts alone. That total begins to increase exponentially when you blow things up. You've been warned...

oh I keep my cars maintained and yes I do know about the horrible rep dsm have for reliability. this is my 3rd one and have never blown one up or have been stupid with one. this is my first dsm with mods and link. all I'm looking to get out of it for a dd is reliability. wbo2, wally 190, fmic is all I need/want. and a small 16g{waiting to be put on obvioiusly. heres my new idle log. I think it looks better except not being in closed loop for some reason. theres not much done to it right now as you can see in my list, so I'm trying to get a good basic tune out of shouldn't be hard I wouldn't think.

ok so I just installed an mtx-l wideband. does does v2.5 not have the narrowband simulation feature? the car doesn't go into closed loop and I was told since I have v2.5 I have to switch the wideband wire to the egr pin on the ecu, is this correct? here is a log if it helps

I don't know about any of the V2 info, but based on the wideband log, your mafcomp is off. You are very rich which might lock you in open loop. You need to adjust the 50hz slider until you hit 0.25 airflowperrev at idle. Then adjust your deadtime until your wideband and afratioest both hover around 14.7. Then check out the iscposition and make sure its at 30 at idle with no fans running at operating temperature.

Narrowband simulation is V3 only.

So i would have to take the yellow (wideband) wire and move it to the egr pin and then take the brown (narrowband) wire to the o2 pin?