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1g in a 2g

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96talonchick

Proven Member
202
10
Feb 3, 2016
Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
So I'm nearing my Witt's end on this project. Here's the low down. 6 bolt swap into a 2g body. 95 EPROM ECM and engine harness. Block was bored .020, over sized weisco pistons 8:3:1, eagle rods. ACL race bearings, B/S delete w/stub shaft, kiggly race girdle. Head is stock, had a shop make sure it was in good shape (was told it had been rebuilt and was a no start car).
This past summer I put 4k miles on a fresh build. Had a used 14b, stock 450cc injectors and a stock rewired fuel pump for most of the summer.

Right after the build we noticed something was off, found out crank timing was off and had to fix that about 1k miles into the summer. With the crank timing being off, my car was able to take 16psi and loved every minute of it. Ran great, never had an issue! The only reason I made my ex husband look at it was because it sounded like I had cams but I don't.

Once we corrected the crank timing is when my issues became apparent. I tried to run 12psi and hit fuel cut at 1/4 throttle. At this time I had a stock fuel pump rewired and stock injectors. We backed off to 8psi and I avoid fuel cut unless I'm at wot. Mid summer we purchased a 255 walbro pump and installed it. Still can't go above 8psi or I encounter fuel cut at 1/2 throttle.

What is my cars issue?! This spring I am replacing the turbo as my ex husband destroyed that and replacing the clutch/flywheel thanks to him as well. But I want to be able to enjoy my cars potential right now and sadly, fuel cut and low boost is getting in the way.
 
I think fuel cut is when the maf gets overrun. I don't think it necessarily has anything to do with the fueling system. I imagine you've checked for boost leaks and have aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to compensate for the 255?
 
I think fuel cut is when the maf gets overrun. I don't think it necessarily has anything to do with the fueling system. I imagine you've checked for boost leaks and have aftermarket fuel pressure regulator to compensate for the 255?

Yes and yes.

So without tuning, how do I correct the maf issue?
 
What exactly does your car do when it hits fuel cut? Reason I ask is over the years I have had helped fix many cars that owners were saying they were having fuel cut issues, and it turned out to be something completely different.
 
So upon hitting what is my assumed fuel cut my car feels like it hit a wall. Face comes damn close to the steering wheel. With the sudden stop comes a bang of my car going from moving to not moving. The moment ya let off the throttle and push the clutch in as say WTF.. the car resumes driving like nothing ever happened. My ex-husband did try to press thru it, it bucked a few times and then was fine. I personally will not do that... I break my car, it's down and out for years now not just a summer.
 
Wires are flipped. After the crank timing issue I brought in a DSM mechanic to help time it and I vaguely remember a ground to time, I will verify that though. And BLT had been done at regular intervals, the leaks we found we minor and fixed as soon as they were found.
 
Dear lord the dread plug question! I'd have to look it up at work when I get in the end of the week. I do know we purchased a cooler running plug cuz the recommended ones were in need of replacement at 1k miles. Coil was idiot tested (so says my ex husband) and injectors were tested (so says my ex as well)

My one thought is, I have 8:3:1 compression ratio on a 6 bolt 1g. I know stock is 7 something I want to say 7:8:1... Could this be causing an issue?
 
Logically if you're on a stock fuel injectors and stock ecu the only reason the car would hit fuel cut that means you have a boost leak somewhere. Atleast that's the only time I've hit fuel cut. And I've ran 18psi on stock Injectors, stock ecu, and upgraded fuel pump/rewire. When you did the BLT what specific areas did you check? Because any leak after the turbo will cause it, most common leak I found is the jpipe. Next is injector seals. And only 1 or 2 times I'd hear my oil bubble a up because it would leak through the chra. Very slow bubbling sound is fine. But the bad test I had sounded like a lot. Just my 2 cents. Also if you have a boost gauge try filling it to 10psi and see if it holds.
 
I'm thinking this because your problems started when you changed timing. Check that the crank pulley shows 0 when piston is at tdc. They can go bad (twist) causing bogus timing readings
 
Hey guys.. first post . I bought a 2g , 420a that has a Hahn turbo . I'm burning oil like crazy so I just did a compression test and had 159/170/190/55 .. the hell would be the problem with that?! . Did the test twice and got the same reading . Maybe a bent rod ?
 
Logically if you're on a stock fuel injectors and stock ecu the only reason the car would hit fuel cut that means you have a boost leak somewhere. Atleast that's the only time I've hit fuel cut. And I've ran 18psi on stock Injectors, stock ecu, and upgraded fuel pump/rewire. When you did the BLT what specific areas did you check? Because any leak after the turbo will cause it, most common leak I found is the jpipe. Next is injector seals. And only 1 or 2 times I'd hear my oil bubble a up because it would leak through the chra. Very slow bubbling sound is fine. But the bad test I had sounded like a lot. Just my 2 cents. Also if you have a boost gauge try filling it to 10psi and see if it holds.

I do know my ex pressurized the system and it held 20psi without dropping. When it did drop, we found a leak and fixed. So as of being parked last fall, there were no known leaks.
 
Logically if you're on a stock fuel injectors and stock ecu the only reason the car would hit fuel cut that means you have a boost leak somewhere. Atleast that's the only time I've hit fuel cut. And I've ran 18psi on stock Injectors, stock ecu, and upgraded fuel pump/rewire. When you did the BLT what specific areas did you check? Because any leak after the turbo will cause it, most common leak I found is the jpipe. Next is injector seals. And only 1 or 2 times I'd hear my oil bubble a up because it would leak through the chra. Very slow bubbling sound is fine. But the bad test I had sounded like a lot. Just my 2 cents. Also if you have a boost gauge try filling it to 10psi and see if it holds.

Also, it is stock injectors but a 95 EPROM ECM. An acquaintance said that if I throw in the 560's and just adjust my idle, it shouldn't be an issue. Is this true?
 
Also, it is stock injectors but a 95 EPROM ECM. An acquaintance said that if I throw in the 560's and just adjust my idle, it shouldn't be an issue. Is this true?
I'd say no, on stock ecu the computer is set up for 450's, Unless you're running ecm link? Have you tried the ground to time method as state a few posts above? After you have all timing marks lined up start the car and then I'm not sure how you do this without link but I know there is a way, but with link you hit ground to ecu and then you move the cas and check timing with a timing light. Or by listening if you're a pro.
 
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