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Spec me a 10s setup!

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tim_korn_99

15+ Year Contributor
216
0
Aug 3, 2004
Bentonville, Arkansas
I'm probably the oldest newbie on the forum. Just recently got back into it with a 1g car that I intend to use as a track only car.
That said, I intend to gut the car and get the weight down some.


Here's the specs currently:

92 AWD Auto - 6/4 combo with LSD
6 Bolt engine
9:1 Wiseco pistons
Stock rods
Stock cranks
ARP studs
Cometic HG
ACL rods and mains
Head has +1mm valves, supertech hardened guides


Currently has a big16G on some sort of tubular manifold. Stock boost levels, stock fuel system, no tuning.

So it's a pretty clean slate to work with. I'm ready to start ordering parts and get this build moving, but everytime I search I see different setups.
I just want one that's proven to work and has potential to GROW.

Once the turbo is spec'd/ordered, I'll send the torque converter off to be restalled to whatever RPM will work with the turbo.


I'm looking for someone to spec out the following for me that's proven:

- Turbo/manifold
- Cams
- Intake manifold
- FMIC
- Fuel System (needs to be for E85)
- Tuning software
- Torque Converter
- Anything else i'm missing



Attaching a couple pics so you guys can see what I'm working with:




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Just purchased ECMLink V3 so we can add that to the list.
The intercooler piping thats coming with my kit is already setup for SD so that's the route I'll be going.
 
Good to know. Easiest solution would be to just swap the exhaust housing over on the turbo, right?
I'm definitely not opposed to doing that if it needs it.
Any way to upgrade the turbo to a full hx40, or would that require a t4 flange?
Personally I'd probably go full HX40 and never look back, but a single-scroll T3 .70 or .82 housing on the existing HX35 turbine would definitely be an improvement over what you have there given your current manifold situation. I guess it depends what you paid for the setup...if the rest of the parts made the turbo super-cheap, then you can afford to put a little into the turbo to get the most out of it down the road.
 
I'm curious what kind of HP level I should be shooting for to hit my goals?
Let's say I wanted ~130mph trap speed.

These cars are around 2900 stipped down or so?

I did 130.75 @ 29psi on:

DSM76 HTA (mitsu flanged turbo with FP manifold)
HKS 272's

3395lbs with me in it.

Trap speed vs weight shows an avg of 525awhp down the entirety of the track.
 
Personally I'd probably go full HX40 and never look back, but a single-scroll T3 .70 or .82 housing on the existing HX35 turbine would definitely be an improvement over what you have there given your current manifold situation. I guess it depends what you paid for the setup...if the rest of the parts made the turbo super-cheap, then you can afford to put a little into the turbo to get the most out of it down the road.

I think I did ok on it since the deal included the turbosmart gate and bov. I wanted something as complete as I could find to save me the hassle of picking/choosing parts without a ton of knowledge on my end.
I paid $1400 for all of it.

Maybe after I get it going I'll find a good deal on a hx40 and can sell this turbo.
 
I did 130.75 @ 29psi on:

DSM76 HTA (mitsu flanged turbo with FP manifold)
HKS 272's

3395lbs with me in it.

Trap speed vs weight shows an avg of 525awhp down the entirety of the track.


Good info. Thanks!

I'm hoping to be a few hundred pounds less than you since it's a track only car and I can strip it down.
What kind of converter are you running and what was your 60' time?
 
I wanted something as complete as I could find to save me the hassle of picking/choosing parts without a ton of knowledge on my end.
The only issue there is you're banking on the fact that whoever put the setup together knew what they were doing...and in this case you did pretty good but the turbo itself can use a little work. The manifold probably cost $700+ new to have fabricated; I have no clue what a Turbosmart wastegate costs but TiAL gates are $250, the Race Port BOV is $250, oil lines for the turbo are $100ish, and the VRSF FMIC kits are $300 new. I understand everything is used but even still I'd say you did pretty well. :)
 
The only issue there is you're banking on the fact that whoever put the setup together knew what they were doing...and in this case you did pretty good but the turbo itself can use a little work. The manifold probably cost $700+ new to have fabricated; I have no clue what a Turbosmart wastegate costs but TiAL gates are $250, the Race Port BOV is $250, oil lines for the turbo are $100ish, and the VRSF FMIC kits are $300 new. I understand everything is used but even still I'd say you did pretty well. :)


Good to hear. The guy I got it all from works at a big name dsm shop, so I felt pretty good about the quality of the parts and what not.
I'm willing to do whatever it takes on the turbo side to meet my goals. This at least gets me started with everything.

What do you think that hx40/35 hybrid flows?
 
Good info. Thanks!

I'm hoping to be a few hundred pounds less than you since it's a track only car and I can strip it down.
What kind of converter are you running and what was your 60' time?

Dunno on the converter. It came with the car. It's old. I think it may be an ipt restall.

60ft on that run and the run before it sucked. 1.965. At that time I couldn't build more than 12psi off the line without losing traction. (Fully inflated street tires). I was recently able to get a low 1.760ft by switching some things around but I broke a rear axle and wasn't able to get back to the track before they closed for the season.
 
Pulled my ecu in preparation for the v3 install, and found that I have a NON-Eprom ECU. Great.

I'm on the hunt for the correct ecu, but it's got me thinking. By the time I spend the money on an eprom ecu and get it socket, I'm going to be close to the cost of a few AEM systems that I've found (figuring in the cost of the dsmlink v3 as well).

Should I just pursue something like that?
 
Put a wanted ad on the fb group and bought a socketed eprom ecu for $120. At least that's taken care of...
 
Still accumulating parts!

Here's what I've gotten since last update:

BC 280 cams
BC springs/titanium retainers
Magnus intake manifold
SD wiring harness
NGK 7 plugs
 
The only issue there is you're banking on the fact that whoever put the setup together knew what they were doing...and in this case you did pretty good but the turbo itself can use a little work. The manifold probably cost $700+ new to have fabricated; I have no clue what a Turbosmart wastegate costs but TiAL gates are $250, the Race Port BOV is $250, oil lines for the turbo are $100ish, and the VRSF FMIC kits are $300 new. I understand everything is used but even still I'd say you did pretty well. :)


I realize you're not a fan of the HX40/35 hybrid that I got, just wondering what your thoughts are on the garrett GT4088r? It was presented as a trade offer for something else that I'm selling locally. Currently has a t4 1.06 exhaust housing on it, but it appears that ATP offers a T3 0.89 housing for it:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-007&Category_Code=GTH
 
Pulled my ecu in preparation for the v3 install, and found that I have a NON-Eprom ECU. Great.

I'm on the hunt for the correct ecu, but it's got me thinking. By the time I spend the money on an eprom ecu and get it socket, I'm going to be close to the cost of a few AEM systems that I've found (figuring in the cost of the dsmlink v3 as well).

Should I just pursue something like that?

No stick with ECMLink, it's the best bang for buck. Also, they can convert your non eprom to eprom. http://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=57
 
Probably going to just stick with link since that's what I already have, and is what my tuner is familiar with.
 
Oh ok did not know, my friend has it and thought there site went down
 
A gt40 is not a good idea, it is WAY too big for your goals. I would also recommend against fic 1800s, they will be a hassle to tune even on e85. Also depending which turbo you end up using you may need a small shot of nitrous to stall, but hopefully you can get away without. Probably going to want a shift kit, shift box, and maybe even a 5 friction for added safety margin. The auto guys will be able to advise you better on that stuff, just remember to avoid 4th. Also save some funds for wheels/tires, you can find slipstream/m&h s/s packages all the time on here lightly used for 800-1000
 
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A gt40 is not a good idea, it is WAY too big for your goals. I would also recommend against fic 1800s, they will be a hassle to tune even on e85. Also depending which turbo you end up using you may need a small shot of nitrous to stall, but hopefully you can get away without. Probably going to want a shift kit, shift box, and maybe even a 5 friction for added safety margin. The auto guys will be able to advise you better on that stuff, just remember to avoid 4th. Also save some funds for wheels/tires, you can find slipstream/m&h s/s packages all the time on here lightly used for 800-1000


Are you against the FIC 1800s for their part throttle driveability or because of their all-out performance?

I've got a nitrous setup ready to go in the car for spooling. As for shifting, I purchased a B&M pro shifter that I plan to wire via the Kiggly mod. Also sending my converter off for a restall. If it needs anything more than that I'll address it for sure.

Purchased a new set of 15x7 rotas and some 26x9.5x15 hoosier QTPs. I was unable to find any used setups at the time.





My BC 280 cams, innovative WB and 5-points delivered today. Lots more parts should be here tomorrow!



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Patiently waiting....... Lol


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