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1G Manley turbo tuff side clearance.

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So many of you guys know ive been fighting to get a motor together.....I finally got the motor back together last night. The only thing bothering me now is the side clearance on the rods. I am getting .005 when using a pry bar with a dial indicator. How loose do the rods have to be on the journal? Has anyone had to cut down the rods because they are to tight?
 
5 thou is fine. The manual calls for .0039 to .0098"
Do they seem tight in any other way? You should be able to wiggle them side-to-side with light finger pressure.
 
5 thou is fine. The manual calls for .0039 to .0098"
Do they seem tight in any other way? You should be able to wiggle them side-to-side with light finger pressure.
There is deff clearance , I can spin the crank with light pressure with the Pistons installed and its smooth as butter. I was just worried they were too tight? I forgot what the data sheet says but I can def move the cap slightly. Should there be A lot of clearance? Like I said endplay is about 0.4- 0.5 prying on the cap. I guess I'm just worrying that the caps should have more clearance. I can move the cap back and forth and hear the "taping" sound. I checked the side clearance with feeler gauges, think it was tighter than .003 I gotta double check
 
That was a stupid of me to say, the crank endplay has nothing to do with rod clearance...... I just want to make sure I'm not to tight side to side
 
If tolerance is .004-.0098 then its within spec. Sounds right in the middle and you need side clearance anyway. What is the loosest one?
 
N
If tolerance is .004-.0098 then its within spec. Sounds right in the middle and you need side clearance anyway. What is the loosest one?
well on the Manley data sheet it claims they want at least 0.015 minimum. I'm just worried I don't have enough. Wanted to know if anyone had to machine the rods down due to lack of clearance
 
N

well on the Manley data sheet it claims they want at least 0.015 minimum. I'm just worried I don't have enough. Wanted to know if anyone had to machine the rods down due to lack of clearance
V8's tend to use .015" since the rods are paired up on a common rod journal. Your clearance is good for a 4 cylinder engine. It's not one of the most critical dimensions anyway. You should be more worried about the main and rod oil clearance, piston to wall clearance, and piston ring end gaps.
 
V8's tend to use .015" since the rods are paired up on a common rod journal. Your clearance is good for a 4 cylinder engine. It's not one of the most critical dimensions anyway. You should be more worried about the main and rod oil clearance, piston to wall clearance, and piston ring end gaps.
So you think I should be ok? That is the minimum clearance, its actually more. I just dont want to half ass this. My rod and mains are all .003 maybe .00275 , I figure without balance shafts this would be a good thing.
 
And that's why I finally just broke down and had Curt build mine. Ha ha
The problem is....if i always give up , ill never learn.... and thats not my style. If i mess up, i mess up......ill take my failure and move forward until im the expert. Thats how its works.....Ill still be shitting my pants when i turn the key though
 
Those side clearances are fine. Have you decided on ptw clearances? Learning to do this yourself is a good decision. May be an expensive learning curve but youll know its done right.
 
Those side clearances are fine. Have you decided on ptw clearances? Learning to do this yourself is a good decision. May be an expensive learning curve but youll know its done right.
The piston to wall clearance were done by rrt motorsports....I havent measured those. I gave him my Pistons to give to his machinist. The block had been bored for stock 2g piston .020 over. The motor was torque plated and honed out to the extra clearance needed. My only problem was the crank, everything else looked great. So right now I'm looking at .002+ to .003 for oil clearances. And .004+ on all cap clearances. I wish the there was a off the shelf crank for the 6 bolt that was good. I don't hear great things about the eagle crank?
 
I've used Eagle cranks on a few builds, they're good cranks BUT they must be prepped and installed by an experienced engine builder. They must have the internal oil passages cleaned, the screw plugs must be checked and locked into place, and the oil clearances must be measured and adjusted. These are typical steps that a DIY home mechanic might not be able to do correctly, and this could cause trouble for them.
 
I've used Eagle cranks on a few builds, they're good cranks BUT they must be prepped and installed by an experienced engine builder. They must have the internal oil passages cleaned, the screw plugs must be checked and locked into place, and the oil clearances must be measured and adjusted. These are typical steps that a DIY home mechanic might not be able to do correctly, and this could cause trouble for them.
What I would plan to do is send it to a machinist for magna fluxing, balancing and cleaning after a polishing to my specs. I wish we could buy a crAnk that is ready to go out of the box. It's only 7 bolts that's I find.
 
All set guys, just goin to spray her down with some wd upside down to get any foreign material out of the motor, air her down and finish the assembly
 

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