Im here to also listen to you all and give you what you ALL want as well as I have to make you all happy and love my stuff too haha,

I have just got home and sat down and worked it out and I can do 2 holes to the outer bracket but this means

** by design It will automatically come with NEG 1* of camber built into the arms this can be removed by unthreading the rod ends more and get it back to oem arm length so you will not loose any adjustment range at all!!!**

on my other workings out I believe I can have more camber by adding it on the rod end and that would mean it could get close to -2.7* of camber and still retain the +1.5* of camber

so as to my pro paint shop drawing below the 2 white dots are the holes being used! and the central is not cut at all! this keeps them all in the same location as before in my design!

if this is ok with everyone I can adjust the laser cutting to go this route if it will help relieve you all of any strength issues! let me know and I will get them to adjust the drawing tomorrow

Just to confirm, we will be able to adjust camber from 2 points. One, where the knuckle mounts to the upper arm.(Where your holes are drilled.) And two, at the rod ends?


I've been thinking about this more and more, please don't mind. But, when we lower our cars, the rears camber in pretty good and we have to add camber to get into "spec". Even at -2.4 degrees, I still added washers. Does changing the arm height (roll center) affect the camber curve? Will so much negative adjustment even be necessary?

Black95TSIawd said:

Just to confirm, we will be able to adjust camber from 2 points. One, where the knuckle mounts to the upper arm.(Where your holes are drilled.) And two, at the rod ends?


I've been thinking about this more and more, please don't mind. But, when we lower our cars, the rears camber in pretty good and we have to add camber to get into "spec". Even at -2.4 degrees, I still added washers. Does changing the arm height (roll center) affect the camber curve? Will so much negative adjustment even be necessary?

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thats correct the most inner hole on the outer bracket will be the hole that will give -1* camber from design the one towards the outside of the car will give you pos camber incase you need to loose some neg camber, then the rod ends for fine tuning, the higher you go on the roll center inner bracket will take away camber but you can add that back in the adjustments from the rod ends, the camber curve is altered of course depending on your setup, mine has been set to not gain less camber on compression and keep a flatter tire in a turn to retain tire grip and not loose the grip via more camber.

I dont have to add the extra camber in the arms and I can put that back into giving more + camber as it was originally designed for, I know it can become too much and It was just an idea to add more camber being neg rather then pos camber. I wont add the extra camber then but just remove this 1 hole and that will solve all the worries and still have a wide range of adjustments.

once we are all ok with it and I can keep you all happy people I will adjust the sale post to reflect the new bracket that will be used to make it much clearer for the buyers to see whats actually happening.

Thanks for your input folks. Im just trying to get this arranged for you all how YOU all feel comfortable with them plus without adding costs to having more parts laser cut or items needed. cost is what im trying to keep fairly low for you all while giving you quality product(s)

Can you provide the dimensions below? I was looking at some changes to my billet knuckle design to maximize tire clearance and I want to see how your arm design impacts that.

back to the top folks, any more for arms?

I am throwing in my vote for retaining the center hole on the outer joint. I would prefer to have a wider range of adjustment as well as retaining oem spec should I need it at some point in the future.

llxkevinxll said:

I am throwing in my vote for retaining the center hole on the outer joint. I would prefer to have a wider range of adjustment as well as retaining oem spec should I need it at some point in the future.

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Haha, I may need to put a full vote out to all and see what everyone wants!

you can still get to the oem range by unthreading the rod end more, I have been through my initial designs recently and it can be done safely aswell. basically with removing the central hole in the outer bracket the rod ends play more of a role to getting the correct range needed,

ec17pse said:

Haha, I may need to put a full vote out to all and see what everyone wants!

you can still get to the oem range by unthreading the rod end more, I have been through my initial designs recently and it can be done safely aswell. basically with removing the central hole in the outer bracket the rod ends play more of a role to getting the correct range needed,

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OK that sounds fine to me. Thanks for clearing that up.

possibly in. Sent you a PM

95eclipser said:

possibly in. Sent you a PM

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Replied

llxkevinxll said:

OK that sounds fine to me. Thanks for clearing that up.

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Yeah no problems. a few were worried about that central hole strength even though mines been fine for months its still what everyone wants at the end of the day, I want to cater for all and make sure everyone is happy without having 2 types of everything as that gets confusing and things go wrong fast haha. I know its not your normal typical design .

At least it can be reverted back to oem lengths plus more pos camber with the most outer hole so the arms wrok in the same way with the same ranges just minus 1 central hole.

I'm in as well deposit sent.

Thanks!

At near or around stock ride height what is the camber range of adjustment?

TSiAWD666 said:

At near or around stock ride height what is the camber range of adjustment?

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Stock ride height is adjustable to -2.2 / +1.5 i mocked these up from my stock spare chassis i have so its as close to stock as im going to get.

im now thinking since i re worked out the adjustment again on the rod end side of things that i can gain possibly another half degree each way so from my new estimate if my drawings and calculations are correct it may be able to go -2.7 and / +2.0 as a guestimate.

Count me in then, range is good for me, just leave out that center hole.

TSiAWD666 said:

Count me in then, range is good for me, just leave out that center hole.

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Center hole is being taken now but can still be adjusted for its removal. Laser cutters ready been updated!

Glad to see the list is filling up fast!

95eclipser said:

Glad to see the list is filling up fast!

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It sure is, hope I can jump to the other side of 10 but we shall see what happens!

If the centre hole is left out, I'm in.

T2Small said:

If the centre hole is left out, I'm in.

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I'm pretty sure the center hole is being removed. Check first post!

Now pay the guy and get your name on this list!

T2Small said:

If the centre hole is left out, I'm in.

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Shoot me a pm then i can get you added, Thanks

Well that's 10 on the list! Wonder if I can get to the other side 10?

If you get a group buy going sometime in the middle of the first quarter of 2017, I'll be able to afford them. I would definitely pick up a pair then

barza21 said:

If you get a group buy going sometime in the middle of the first quarter of 2017, I'll be able to afford them. I would definitely pick up a pair then

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It won't be likely I'm afraid, if I did another batch of these it won't be till at least summertime as I've got other items I'm planning to bring out in the new year