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2G Not cranking, strange behavior

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SleepingTSI

Probationary Member
19
0
Dec 27, 2011
Colorado Spring, Colorado
This is a new one to me. Picked up a 97 GST with a 6bolt that spun a bearing. Swapped in my good 7bolt from my 95 TSI. After pulling the trans a couple times to get the right starter plate in place I'm finally ready to crank it a little first to get oil to the turbo and such. Turn the key on, dash lights up as normal. Turn to start, fuel pump finally comes on, but no cranking. Tried another starter, same issue. So just to be safe, removed the turbo timer the previous owner had installed, no change. Checked the link(v3) comes up fine, can turn the fuel pump on and off no problem. Figured best to see what I am missing. I know the fp is only sposed to run when it has a signal from the cas, but every other dsm I've owned(3 1Gs and 4 2Gs so far), when I turn the key on, hear the fp come on and then go off, and start up fine. With this one, the fp doesn't power up until the key is in the start position, AND the starter is not activating. I'm at a loss and I need to get my car running asap. I've searched but nothing quite like this that I noticed. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for reading,
Bernard
 
Have you tried bumping the starter over directly to rule out the possibility of a bad starter (note: swapping out a starter does not necessarily rule out the possibility of a bad starter, nor does it help you isolate a potential problem with the starting system)?

If not, figure out a way to connect terminals "B" and "M" with a thick conductor. Obviously insulate yourself to avoid getting a shock. If the starter turns over, you'll next have to work your way over to the solenoid to eliminate that as a problem, just send a positive signal to terminal "S" with the batter lead properly connected to the "B" terminal. If that works then that means the starter is not getting power to the "S" terminal from your ignition switch. Not sure about the wiring of the ignition switch itself and it's relationship to ECU, fuses, etc..., but that would atleast help you isolate the problem.

Cheers.
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Have you tried bumping the starter over directly to rule out the possibility of a bad starter (note: swapping out a starter does not necessarily rule out the possibility of a bad starter, nor does it help you isolate a potential problem with the starting system)?

If not, figure out a way to connect terminals "B" and "M" with a thick conductor. Obviously insulate yourself to avoid getting a shock. If the starter turns over, you'll next have to work your way over to the solenoid to eliminate that as a problem, just send a positive signal to terminal "S" with the batter lead properly connected to the "B" terminal. If that works then that means the starter is not getting power to the "S" terminal from your ignition switch. Not sure about the wiring of the ignition switch itself and it's relationship to ECU, fuses, etc..., but that would atleast help you isolate the problem.

Cheers.
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Well put and a diagram to boot!! :thumb:
This is why this forum rocks imo
Feels like I'm back in automotive school.
Good rule of thumb is to ALWAYS check fuses, battery terminal connections and any connections to components in that system to start with.
 
There is a one wire connector (black/yellow wire) that runs between the main engine harness and the battery harness. This carries the start signal from the starter relay (under the dash) to the starter solenoid (on the starter). It is located behind and below the thermostat housing. Here's a pic:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/page-2#post-151542290

Failure to plug in this connector, especially after an engine swap, is a common cause of a no crank condition.

Jim
 
Have you tried bumping the starter over directly to rule out the possibility of a bad starter (note: swapping out a starter does not necessarily rule out the possibility of a bad starter, nor does it help you isolate a potential problem with the starting system)?

If not, figure out a way to connect terminals "B" and "M" with a thick conductor. Obviously insulate yourself to avoid getting a shock. If the starter turns over, you'll next have to work your way over to the solenoid to eliminate that as a problem, just send a positive signal to terminal "S" with the batter lead properly connected to the "B" terminal. If that works then that means the starter is not getting power to the "S" terminal from your ignition switch. Not sure about the wiring of the ignition switch itself and it's relationship to ECU, fuses, etc..., but that would atleast help you isolate the problem.

Cheers.
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the S terminal and the starter cranked over. Had a friend turn the key to the start position and tested the S terminal and had no power there. Turns out I managed to overlook the wire jim95redgsx describes, strange thing was I don't remember disconnecting that plug when I pulled either engine.

Now I just have to figure out the wiring for a 95 cam sensor in a 97 engine bay.

Thanks for the help guys!! Fortunately I don't have to post questions often, but when I do, it's awesome to get this quality of responses!

Bernard
 
Awesome, thanks for the info. I ran a jumper wire from the battery to the S terminal and the starter cranked over. Had a friend turn the key to the start position and tested the S terminal and had no power there. Turns out I managed to overlook the wire jim95redgsx describes, strange thing was I don't remember disconnecting that plug when I pulled either engine.

Now I just have to figure out the wiring for a 95 cam sensor in a 97 engine bay.

Thanks for the help guys!! Fortunately I don't have to post questions often, but when I do, it's awesome to get this quality of responses!

Bernard

If you don't want to deal with the wiring, we sell all types of harness adapters for the DSM community. :thumb:
 
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