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2G Modified FP Green HTA Dyno Results

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@95talongirl

Mary Beth, If you'd be so kind as to share your experiences/opinions on the Green XL? You are the only one that came to mind running a similar setup. I'm curious if you're seeing similar numbers in spool/power

Mine is a weird version, as well. It's not an HTA, (based off of looking at photos of the HTA housing and what's on mine) but its suppose to have the larger compressor wheel/housing. When it was being tuned, the car could not get over 29psi. So at that 29 psi it made 442WHP (Mustang Dyno.) Originally thought it needed a different wastegate. (still internally gated), but come to find out, it was getting stuck - and eventually stuck open. I ran Drag Week on this turbo, so its got around 1100 miles, and its a blast, and it traps 126mph. The spool on it is more than I am used to, but its still very streetable. Hoping next season to get the eastegate issue straightened out, and to push it harder - I'd like to get it to run over 30psi. Even though in its current state its a freaking blast.

So.... in a nutshell, I'd like to get the wastegate issue fixed and then go back and see if it helps the spool some, as well as make more power. I honestly don't know if its always been messed up, or if that came later on at this point. I'm inclined to say it's always had the issue since it wouldn't make more than 29psi - no matter what he tried.
 
Mine is a weird version, as well. It's not an HTA, (based off of looking at photos of the HTA housing and what's on mine) but its suppose to have the larger compressor wheel/housing. When it was being tuned, the car could not get over 29psi. So at that 29 psi it made 442WHP (Mustang Dyno.) Originally thought it needed a different wastegate. (still internally gated), but come to find out, it was getting stuck - and eventually stuck open. I ran Drag Week on this turbo, so its got around 1100 miles, and its a blast, and it traps 126mph. The spool on it is more than I am used to, but its still very streetable. Hoping next season to get the eastegate issue straightened out, and to push it harder - I'd like to get it to run over 30psi. Even though in its current state its a freaking blast.

So.... in a nutshell, I'd like to get the wastegate issue fixed and then go back and see if it helps the spool some, as well as make more power. I honestly don't know if its always been messed up, or if that came later on at this point. I'm inclined to say it's always had the issue since it wouldn't make more than 29psi - no matter what he tried.


Just out of curiosity..what is keeping you from going external gate?
 
Parts. The turbo was already internally gated when I got it and I didn't feel like changing it.

I am considering it now, though. ;)
 
4-4.5k is when things really start moving in 3rd. This is an ideal street car turbo imho. I don't feel like I'm beating the piss out of it just to leave a stoplight and having the external dump open every 20ft like it was on the 16g, but it doesn't lag enough to where I feel like I've got no torque on the street.

Cool, thanks.
 
While I'll admit it was only 50 degrees out at the time, the car is making enough powah to spin 255 nitto nt05's in 2nd :)
 
This is all good to know. I am currently doing all the finishing touches on my GST, I'll be running the Green XL and was looking to hit the 500 mark but we don't have e85 readily available here so I'm going to go with pump/race gas mix. Any tips to unlock the potential of this turbo? I'm running 272 cams and it's externally gated.
 
This is all good to know. I am currently doing all the finishing touches on my GST, I'll be running the Green XL and was looking to hit the 500 mark but we don't have e85 readily available here so I'm going to go with pump/race gas mix. Any tips to unlock the potential of this turbo? I'm running 272 cams and it's externally gated.

Not sure if it matters but I'm also running a Magnus smim. That's probably offset by the low compression stock 6 bolt and vrsf fmic LOL. You should be good to go it's just going to be very dependent on the fuel mixture. It helps that you're fwd though, less drivetrain loss.
 
The intake would make a difference.

Had my car dynoed last year with the stock intake and it made 402HP. I have the new Magnus V4 on it now, and it made 442, at the same boost level. ;)
 
Mine is a weird version, as well. It's not an HTA, (based off of looking at photos of the HTA housing and what's on mine) but its suppose to have the larger compressor wheel/housing.

The Green XL uses the same HTA compressor wheel as the Red and HTA76. You're referring to the compressor housing. FP used a non surge ported cover on some of the XLs I've seen.

The GTX3076R wheel in this turbo is a bit larger than the HTA76 and is rated at 64 lb/min. Very nice numbers for a bolt-on setup, glad to see you're enjoying it!
 
The Green XL uses the same HTA compressor wheel as the Red and HTA76. You're referring to the compressor housing. FP used a non surge ported cover on some of the XLs I've seen.

The GTX3076R wheel in this turbo is a bit larger than the HTA76 and is rated at 64 lb/min. Very nice numbers for a bolt-on setup, glad to see you're enjoying it!

Thanks for the clarification on that. :thumb:
I hope to get a decent time out of the car next season. Haven't had the time to really get used to launching it this year, due to time.
 
Originally thought it needed a different wastegate. (still internally gated), but come to find out, it was getting stuck - and eventually stuck open.
Compressor cover does not have a locating pin and can/will rotate under the weight of the intercooler piping as well as the tension of the actuator. This will cause the flapper to hang open slightly and the turbo to suddenly become extremely-laggy or not reach a peak boost level that it previously did. This is common on internally-gated MHI turbos with downfiring covers and is easily-fixed but you'd have to clock the cover exactly where you want it with the actuator removed, remove the turbo from the car, remove the snap ring from the cover, mark where the alignment pin should go (noted by the half-moon cut out of the bearing housing), and install an alignment pin on the cover. Not a difficult task....just time-consuming.

FP creates this problem by changing the geometry of the wastegate system by moving the actuator lever inward on the housing a little so the actuator is pulling "up" on it for actuator clearance. This prevents the flapper from ever rotating past-center, but creates the issue of the actuator constantly pulling the cover down.

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^ The more-straight you can keep that little lever arm on the turbine housing, the better-off you'll be against the cover moving under the tension of the actuator...but this often requires the actuator to be mounted in a lower position on the cover where it can interfere with fans, etc. So the best solution is to keep the actuator where FP has it and install a locating pin into the cover like a 16G has so it can't move. :)


The Green XL uses the same HTA compressor wheel as the Red and HTA76. You're referring to the compressor housing. FP used a non surge ported cover on some of the XLs I've seen.
I've noticed that and never understood what the method to their madness was. So a standard 52.5/73mm Green has a ported cover but when they install a 55/75mm compressor on the smaller turbine they take the porting away....just after creating a turbo that would potentially be more-prone to surge. :p
 
The Green XL uses the same HTA compressor wheel as the Red and HTA76. You're referring to the compressor housing. FP used a non surge ported cover on some of the XLs I've seen.

The GTX3076R wheel in this turbo is a bit larger than the HTA76 and is rated at 64 lb/min. Very nice numbers for a bolt-on setup, glad to see you're enjoying it!

She rips man! Just upset I won't see/drive it again until July 2017.....
 
Compressor cover does not have a locating pin and can/will rotate under the weight of the intercooler piping as well as the tension of the actuator. This will cause the flapper to hang open slightly and the turbo to suddenly become extremely-laggy or not reach a peak boost level that it previously did. This is common on internally-gated MHI turbos with downfiring covers and is easily-fixed but you'd have to clock the cover exactly where you want it with the actuator removed, remove the turbo from the car, remove the snap ring from the cover, mark where the alignment pin should go (noted by the half-moon cut out of the bearing housing), and install an alignment pin on the cover. Not a difficult task....just time-consuming.

Well, then! That sounds exactly like that its doing. I'll have to look into this. Thank you for sharing that information!
 
HTA green 53/73mm fp rates at 54lb/min
GTX 3071 54.1/71mm garret rates at 54lb/min
HTA red 54.8/75mm 57lb/min
good numbers IMHO. as I think the HTA green actually flows more than the GTX 3071. but by definition comp inducer defines how large your turbo is.
 
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