A better question would be, what kind of power are you looking to make?
Your statement is pretty vague as many turbos hit around that mark...

If your looking at around 400 the tdo5h 20g would be perfect for you more than likely. I ran an evo with an fp green and I pulled on him until about 120 then his top end started to shine. When I was on my tdo5h 20g

Start with a 16g turbo variant. They are stock frame turbos engineered for stock longblocks.

There are the Small 16g, Big 16g, EvoIII 16g, all of which will come with slightly bigger compressor wheels and 7cm housings. (Stock 14b turbo is 6cm)

Run it at 15psi pressure. Get it tuned well. Run it at 22+ psi and enjoy.

Depending on your power level and goals. remember the more power u make the more likely somethings going to give. Cheapest route would be to get a bolt on mitsu turbo like mentioned above. If you have fab skills and another dd u can try to use a holset hx35 with a bep housing.

Install adjustable cam gears to adjust the powerband location.

I would not dare to go past 22+psi on stock head studs. That's just asking for the head to lift. I would recommend at least arp head studs to go past that reliably. Now I have a tdo5h 20g in my car now and I'm running about 25/26 psi and dsmlink estimates 450hp. Power band is from 4k-7k. A green will get you there, may be more lag but it will create my power with less boost than my turbo.
By quickly looking at your mod list, you will need a clutch that can handle it. Also cams would be a a major help in reaching your goal.

^ He has a 1g so theres no need for head studs until later in the game.

As for turbo choices, you have to be a little more clear on your overall WHP goals. However, generally speaking with that rpm range, thats pretty much 16g territory.

Thanks everyone for the replying. I'm really looking only to get about 350 to 400 when I'm done building the car. Ands yes I'm looking in to a twin disc clutch set up as I do intend to DD this car. And what are you thoughts on a fp68 that's a 16g?

Twin disc, DD, and 16g should not even be in the same sentence....A single disc is all you'll need. Either an act 2600 or ss-x full kevlar.

If you're goal is 350-400 an evo 3 16g would be able to do it strung out on e85, but you'll have a easier time making it on a 20g, whether its a td05, sl2, tdo6...etc Plus, the bolt-on factor makes things a bit easier and simpler. However, then there's the bolt on hx35 or treadstone t3 & hy35 combo.

For a bit more money, you'll have more room to grow (500+whp) while still somewhat maintaining your minimum 4K rpm power band.

I vote 20g.

The reason for a twin disc is the DD part. I hate having to push down on the clutch with 40ftlb. I Wouldn't want to be driving it around if that's the case and is there any reliable 20g turbos . The real 16g are about the same price as a fp green. As eBay stuff sucks. And I also only plan to run on 93 for gas as it is everywhere. And on the price I'm talking brand new.

Twin disc Is overkill I feel for your power level. Grab yourself a southbend ssx b series clutch will handle that no problem. I know someone who makes 433 whp/382 wtq on said clutch. Pretty light pedal as well. If you want to talk turbos talk to Justin (aka jusmx141) on here.

Seems like you havent done your research on twin discs. Twin discs are for full out race cars. Put one on and I'll guarantee you'll be taking it right off. They are for 800+whp cars with engagement thats too aggressive for street driving, let along daily driving. Have you looked at the prices of a complete unit, replacement discs and plates? You have to replace the discs in 10K miles if you're even lucky enough to make it that long....

For a stock clutch feel, a standard southbend SS plate is what you should be looking at. The disc would be up to you (no puck discs). As for turbo, if its not your daily driver, have Justin convert your stock 14b to a 20g. No need to buy new.

Thanks for the info last hope. I will be looking at that clutch. At least I'll have more money to get parts if its cheaper. and still any thoughts on the fp 68hta?

It definitely is cheaper. I paid 650$ for my flywheel clutch combo. As far as my understand goes, there has been 2 different versionsof the 68hta.

Version one is essentially a 20 compressor wheel stuffed into a 16g (rated for 47 lbs per min) and was built using an existing Mitsubishi 16g assembly

Version 2, which is the one sold now, is a turbo built completely around non genuine Mitsubishi components and uses a larger 8cm exhausting housing instead of the the 7cm found in version one. Result is, slower spool for a trade of 51lbs per min.

Im going to agree with hope on this one. Getting your 14b converted to a 20g will net you around 44-45lbs per minute and will be cheaper. Spool and power will be around what you want and cost will be cheaper.

Didn't know that about the fp68. And my stock turbo have seen better days. I'm get the fp 68 but I hate the j pipe. Would like a down facing turbo.thank you all for the info.

If you plan on getting a down facing 68hta you might as well get the green. It will spool almost exactly the same and make more power.....

The whole point of the 68hta is a stock appearing package

NOOB1GDUDE said:

Didn't know that about the fp68. And my stock turbo have seen better days. I'm get the fp 68 but I hate the j pipe. Would like a down facing turbo.thank you all for the info.

Click to expand...

You can get the hta68 in the higher-flowing, down-facing compressor housing for I think $150 more.

Buy a 16/20g from Justin he can build you something nice. For a decent price.

Vegas smith said:

You can get the hta68 in the higher-flowing, down-facing compressor housing for I think $150 more.

Click to expand...

Do you have any data on this? I have never seen any tests directly comparing the two side by side. In theory, a ported cover would stand to lose a small amount of power because of the surge port itself reducing compressor efficiency.

lasthope05 said:

Do you have any data on this? I have never seen any tests directly comparing the two side by side. In theory, a ported cover would stand to lose a small amount of power because of the surge port itself reducing compressor efficiency.

Click to expand...

No data at all, I'm just copying what Fp puts on the website.

NOOB1GDUDE said:

The reason for a twin disc is the DD part. I hate having to push down on the clutch with 40ftlb. I Wouldn't want to be driving it around if that's the case and is there any reliable 20g turbos . The real 16g are about the same price as a fp green. As eBay stuff sucks. And I also only plan to run on 93 for gas as it is everywhere. And on the price I'm talking brand new.

Click to expand...

Why would a 20g not be reliable? We're all talking about real turbos here.

Naw u got me wrong bro. I meant from whom the turbos are made.(eBay)(fp)(oem)and so on. Where would I get an genuine one from? And the prices are just as expensive as fp turbos for the oem ones Remember I'm try to buy new not used.(reliable)

Vegas smith said:

You can get the hta68 in the higher-flowing, down-facing compressor housing for I think $150 more.

Click to expand...

I'll check this out