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1G 1,000hp FULL engine build discussion..

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I thought I'd give some input.
I don't really know what is being asked...
Let me explain...
I am wondering do you want to build a 1,000HP engine... As in long block could take it if later you wanted a biger injectors, turbo exct.
If so I understand...
I had my long block over built and that's ok.
I will be running an fp green now and have big plans for the future as far as 4 more injectors bigger turbo exact. But I still need to fix some suspension and alignment stuff to sort out before pushing the motor to make more power. I'll be breaking in the motor on a dunk jet. Pluss I will street drive my car to break it in further.
I guess I understand wanting some reassurance in knowing you could bolt on new upgrades and the long block will be ok.
But I will say this things break in high h.p. cars and high h.p. cars are not very steerable in many ways depending on what kind of tracks /events/racing you build the car for. Other things to consider is clutch choice... Twin clutch set-up are spendy.
Transmission build type exact.
I'm in $20k-in parts alone and I'm 1/2 dune if you ignore body work paint interior Transmission build drive line axles rims tiers exct.
All I'm saying is i have dune it and still do but I can also say people pull 600+h.p. out of stock short blocks stock head with cams springs exact.
I have a parts list for a 8.5:1 compression 2.0l 7 bolt on my build thread.
If I could do it agine I'd do a 2.1 bestroker 6 bolt 4g64 with 9:1 compression I thinkit he motor would live longer and .1 extra displacement never hurt.

Is a 4g64 destroker 2.1l 6 bolt not what you want?
I personally do ...
As far As 4g64 6 bolt 2.4l, fun but I broke a lot of transmissions and transfercase ishus...LOL trq...
also lost r.p.m.s I could rev to
So I guess I'll ask what kind of racing?
Drag,autox,road race exact...
 
It's for piston cooling and a bit of wrist pin lube. They're not absolutely necessary, and in most cases of higher hp builds, can be an area of question. Alot of other engines have them, and i believe it was an attempt to chase combustion/fuel efficiency as well as part longevity.

Personally id block them, and take a possible weak points in the oiling system away. there are more important areas for oil to be than splashing the backside of the pistons or floating around in the bores.
 
Or make things more simple and just get a non oil jet equipped, non-turbo 4G63 6 bolt block to begin with.

I agree with donniekak in this regard, if your building a race motor, see if you can get a non turbo 6 bolt block before building your turbo 4G63T motor, they obviously will cost considerably less then the turbo versions, and you can make a race motor out of it, and still drive your turbo dsm with it's stock motor in the meantime, this might be the best option, especially for guys that depend on their dsm, as a daily driver etc.
 
I'm not sure I'm understanding the actual reason one would delete the oil squirters. I mean, I do get that they are relieving oil pressure, that could other wise be used in the rest of the engine, but low oil pressure doesn't seem to be an issue with the 4g's..
 
It has nothing to do with pressure and everything to do with flow. Keep the oil where it belongs on the bearings.
 
I'm not sure I'm understanding the actual reason one would delete the oil squirters. I mean, I do get that they are relieving oil pressure, that could other wise be used in the rest of the engine, but low oil pressure doesn't seem to be an issue with the 4g's..

It has nothing to do with pressure and everything to do with flow. Keep the oil where it belongs on the bearings.

I'll add, that the oil squirters can become a liability if they stick open, and I have heard some guys have even damaged them when installing the 100mm stroker crankshafts in the 2.0 blocks.
 
I'll add, that the oil squirters can become a liability if they stick open, and I have heard some guys have even damaged them when installing the 100mm stroker crankshafts in the 2.0 blocks.

What do you mean if they "stick open"? Aren't they always open?
 
I can say I understand oil squirters can be a weak point and oil should stay on the bearings exact but if you have ever ran 600-800 h.p. and up on the streets for a long road trip you may see lots of heat that can wear piston pins and rings.
I don't like the way mitsubishi made and located they're oil squirters...
But I feel they are nessasery for cooling and lubrication. Unless you only run the car at the track for short runs like drag or short periods. Just my opinion on the subject.
Thus is why I have my billet steel I beam rods machine to have oil squirters in them and delete the stock ones.
 
I can say I understand oil squirters can be a weak point and oil should stay on the bearings exact but if you have ever ran 600-800 h.p. and up on the streets for a long road trip you may see lots of heat that can wear piston pins and rings.
I don't like the way mitsubishi made and located they're oil squirters...
But I feel they are nessasery for cooling and lubrication. Unless you only run the car at the track for short runs like drag or short periods. Just my opinion on the subject.
Thus is why I have my billet steel I beam rods machine to have oil squirters in them and delete the stock ones.

Interesting.
Do you have a picture that you could share of your rod oil squirter design?
 
As the title states, looking for insight on building a 1000hp capable complete engine. We all have our opinions and thoughts, and I'd like to hear them. Ideally I'd like to see a hard parts list broken into 2 sections (short block and cylinder head). Along with any notes or specific's why you recommend said parts. While this may turn into a full "dream" build lists by many members, it's nice to see the options out there as far as ideas are concerned. My build is intended for street / track use. I'm not personally looking for a fully filled 2.4 block destroked to 2.1L that'll rev to the moon. While that is an option, it's not a streetable one. I'd like to see what others would HONESTLY use.

Short Block:

6 bolt block (.020 over)
ARP main studs
Kiggly main girdle
stock (uncut) crank
Manley turbo tuff rods (150mm)
Wiseco 1400HD pistons (8.5:1 compression, pump or e85, since this is intended for street and track use)
ACL "hx" series bearings
modified oil pick up tube by Dave Rudy
straight cut oil pump gears (all oem oil pump parts)
BSE
Fluidampr

Head:

1g head (bowl work and gasket matched)
Oil port mod's 1 & 2
Manley springs and titanium retainers
GSC s2's
3g lifters
Kiggly HLA
Felpro Permatorque MLS with ARP L19's
Magnus v5 cast intake manifold
Gates or HKS kevlar timing belt

Overall I do understand that Kiggly springs and retainers would be a better choice. I also could see the cams being a little more aggressive. The thing is, being a street driven capable engine, giving up all the bottom end for peak power isn't ideal. Making 1,000hp isn't set in stone, being able to operate the engine on both the street and at the track is the most important agenda. I also understand other things fuel system, trans, t case, etc. etc. are all other area's that need attention, but were just talking the engine itself, so keep that in mind.
Dear Mr.

what is it " modified oil pick up tube by Dave Rudy"?
Thanks
 
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