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Kringle

Proven Member
113
5
Sep 29, 2015
Goldsboro, North_Carolina
Gentlemen and Ladies that have a bit of tuning experience i would like your opinion or guidence on something. So i bought a 1g about 3 months back and have been working on getting the car on the road. Anyway, the guy i bought it from said it was his friends car and he was helping him tune it when the guy lost interest in the car. I don't know a lot about tuning but i do know that if the guy was tuning it he was gonna have a hell of a time after all the problems i fixed. So heres my thing, should I:

A) Return the ECU to a stock tune and start over with tuning (got a small handle on it and am trying to learn more about it)
B) Continue where the guy left off since all the "extras" are already in ECM live

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated, Thank You
 
  • Your idle switch isn't working. It reads a constant "0". Without a working idle switch, the ECU will not try to adjust idle speed with ISCPosition or timing. To adjust the idle switch, read this thread:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/id...op-switch-cause-high-idle-how-to-test.346268/

With ECMLink, DO NOT ground the timing and/or diagnostic pins when trying to adjust the ISCPosition with the BISS screw. Keep in mind that the ISCPosition takes some time to change, so give it a few minutes after you adjust the BISS.

Your high idle is caused by too much air entering the engine. This extra air is passing through the MAF (as evidenced by your 0.9 lb/min Airflow...should be 0.5 lb/min). I would not suspect a vacuum leak. This could be caused by a misadjusted idle switch. The idle switch is also the throttle stop on the 1G throttle body.

If you get your idle switch working without reducing your idle speed, you will get idle surge.

Jim
I am currently replacing that throttle stop switch cause it has an intermittent signal
 
I hadn't mentioned it because when I was in your logs you were simulating idle switch from the TPS, which is what I do. *shrug* all I'm doing is regurgitating information from the how-tos LOL I say give Jim's suggestion a shot, see what happens.
 
I hadn't mentioned it because when I was in your logs you were simulating idle switch from the TPS, which is what I do. *shrug* all I'm doing is regurgitating information from the how-tos LOL I say give Jim's suggestion a shot, see what happens.

will do i am working on it. you know how hard it is to find a tap for that stupid sensor. ended up having to drill have of the treads out cause the sensor and the throttle body were messed up. also replaced the sensor. working on it though. thanks for helping guys, i know a lot of the info is out there and I've read a lot of it, otherwise i wouldn't be where i am. but seeing as I've been working it for a while its one of them things a fresh pair of eyes/ideas is helping a lot. i can't thank y'all enough.

so what should the TPS be set at then cause everything I've read says .9 but y'all are saying .63? is the .63 just a ECMlink thing and the actual sensor gets set to .9?
 
@Kringle

How did your boost leak test turn out? Did you have leaks, and if so, were they fixed?

There's no sense in adjusting anything until ALL the boost/vacuum leaks have been fixed. The car will never idle correctly as long as the system isn't air tight.
 
@Kringle

How did your boost leak test turn out? Did you have leaks, and if so, were they fixed?

There's no sense in adjusting anything until ALL the boost/vacuum leaks have been fixed. The car will never idle correctly as long as the system isn't air tight.
@GST with PSI

i can put 10 psi into the car and it slowly leaks off to 0 over the coarse of a minute
 
all the sensor on the throttle body are set now. All coils on ISC read 31, throttle stop was turned 15/16 of a turn after the switch was made and the TPS is set to .9 at closed and goes to 5 at wot oh and BISS is 2 turns out from a soft bottom. About to put the throttle body back on and check for leaks again.
 
i can put 10 psi into the car and it slowly leaks off to 0 over the coarse of a minute

I'd test it at triple that pressure. The last boost leak test I did, the car didn't even leak until I hit 20psi.

My guess would be you still have leaks in the intake tract that need to be addressed.
 
TPS - .63v with throttle plate completely closed
5.0v at WOT
 
I'd test it at triple that pressure. The last boost leak test I did, the car didn't even leak until I hit 20psi.

My guess would be you still have leaks in the intake tract that need to be addressed.

tried and failed. LOL the boost tester i made (lowes special) just blew up at 20psi. ill order a proper one tonight. LOL after my hand heals.
 
You've done a lot of reading so I was just making sure you knew the correct values for your TPS :thumb:
Mine is set at .63 but fluctuates up to .65 when it is closed so I need to tweak mine ever so slightly too. Just trying to hang in there with ya to help out.
 
You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 volts at idle, not 0.9 volts.

Start a log with the key on/engine off. Floor the gas pedal a couple of times during this log. Loosen the two bolts that hold the TPS. Turn the TPS until TPSVolts read 0.63 and retighten the bolts. The TPS reading will frequently change slightly when the bolts are tightened. If so, you may have to start off with a slightly higher or lower reading. You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 after the bolts are tightened. Stop the log.

Start another log and check your results. You want the TPS to read 100% and TPSVolts to read 5 volts at WOT. You also want the TPS to read 0% at idle and TPSVolts to read 0.63. Stop the log. If the WOT and idle reading aren't correct, right click on the graph and select TPS Adjust. This will scale your actual TPS readings to 0% and 100%. This why you floored the gas in the first log.

You also want the idle switch to turn off at just under 1% TPS reading. If not, you may want to readjust your idle switch or just check the box to simulate the idle switch.

Jim
 
You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 volts at idle, not 0.9 volts.

Start a log with the key on/engine off. Floor the gas pedal a couple of times during this log. Loosen the two bolts that hold the TPS. Turn the TPS until TPSVolts read 0.63 and retighten the bolts. The TPS reading will frequently change slightly when the bolts are tightened. If so, you may have to start off with a slightly higher or lower reading. You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 after the bolts are tightened. Stop the log.

Start another log and check your results. You want the TPS to read 100% and TPSVolts to read 5 volts at WOT. You also want the TPS to read 0% at idle and TPSVolts to read 0.63. Stop the log. If the WOT and idle reading aren't correct, right click on the graph and select TPS Adjust. This will scale your actual TPS readings to 0% and 100%. This why you floored the gas in the first log.

You also want the idle switch to turn off at just under 1% TPS reading. If not, you may want to readjust your idle switch or just check the box to simulate the idle switch.

Jim

Ok i get what your saying, i think we had a miscomunication somewhere along the line. Ill take the blame for that, the .9 ohm's i was referring to was the actual resistance accost pin 2 and 4 on the TPS, not in ECM live. The testing i was referring to is this http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm ill get a log of the TPS via ECM live here in a bit. Had to take the kids to a soccer game after i boost leak checker exploded in my hand. will post up the log for y'all either tonight or tomorrow morning.
 
I really wish people would stop thinking their timing/afr tables we're worth gold, I understand the guys that get it professionally tuned to a degree but at the same time 90% of us aren't going to be able to see major changes or tweaks and are just looking for a basic idea of what a properly tuned setup SHOULD look like, plus most DSMers nowadays aren't going to drop 600 on ecmlink then another 500 for a tune when the software is right in front of them.

Share guys, we're a community. LOL

That being said (and I now realize it has nothing to do with your post :ohdamn:) Don't be afraid to post logs and ask questions, tag me in it if you have to, I'm not an expert tuner but I've been running the car at 28psi for almost a year and nothing's blown up yet.

ECMLink was one of my first upgrades on a stock GST, and I never regret dropping the $700 on it (including 1 day shipping, I was in a hurry at the time.)

And anyone can tune the car after watching the video's here:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php

So paying $500 for a tune is something that only a few people do. I'd rather spend $500 on a rebuilt 20g from Justin.

Also, there's a certain satisifaction that you get knowing you did tune the car yourself.
 
You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 volts at idle, not 0.9 volts.

Start a log with the key on/engine off. Floor the gas pedal a couple of times during this log. Loosen the two bolts that hold the TPS. Turn the TPS until TPSVolts read 0.63 and retighten the bolts. The TPS reading will frequently change slightly when the bolts are tightened. If so, you may have to start off with a slightly higher or lower reading. You want the TPSVolts to read 0.63 after the bolts are tightened. Stop the log.

Start another log and check your results. You want the TPS to read 100% and TPSVolts to read 5 volts at WOT. You also want the TPS to read 0% at idle and TPSVolts to read 0.63. Stop the log. If the WOT and idle reading aren't correct, right click on the graph and select TPS Adjust. This will scale your actual TPS readings to 0% and 100%. This why you floored the gas in the first log.

You also want the idle switch to turn off at just under 1% TPS reading. If not, you may want to readjust your idle switch or just check the box to simulate the idle switch.

Jim
ok so i was correct on saying we had a miscomunication now that I've looked at ECM live. I was referring to the Resistance on the TPS switch and y'all were talking about the Volts. when i turned the car on it was sitting at 2% and maxed at 4.98. after i adjusted it via TPS adjust it thru in -6 and 102% scale to get it right at .63-5 volts. but here is the log, also my IdleSW is now working correctly as well. About to start her up and get to temp then check idle. wish me luck.
 

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OK, that log looks good, at least for your TPS and idle switch.

You've got a TPS DTC now. You probably caused this if you unplugged the TPS with the key on. Clear that code on the DTC's tab and see if it comes back.

Let the engine fully warm up (at least 190*F) before you try to adjust your ISCPosition to 30 with the Biss screw. ISCPosition can be a little slow to react (particually in the downward direction) so take your time.

Have you watched all the ECMLink Demo videos?
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php

Jim
 
OK, that log looks good, at least for your TPS and idle switch.

You've got a TPS DTC now. You probably caused this if you unplugged the TPS with the key on. Clear that code on the DTC's tab and see if it comes back.

Let the engine fully warm up (at least 190*F) before you try to adjust your ISCPosition to 30 with the Biss screw. ISCPosition can be a little slow to react (particually in the downward direction) so take your time.

Have you watched all the ECMLink Demo videos?
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php

Jim

well i didn't see the trouble code and was out messing with the car, and missed your post. Guess ill have to try again tomorrow but hopefully my progress isn't lost when i clear the code. This is where it is currently at with the idle... and the hunting is gone...yah!
I noticed that the throttle was bouncing from .63 to .65 and that the temp was at 200 but i pressed on anyway, hopefully its ok. car doesn't get as much airflow to cool it when in the garage, i need a bigger fan. The ISC is jumping between 28-32 which is 30 if you average it. Had to adjust global fuel a bit and dead times, also MAF comp.

Hopefully y'all can get an idea of where I'm at and tell me if I'm on the right track with the log.

EDIT: also i ended up simulating the throttle stop cause it was acting funny. it would be at 1 for a while then go to 0 for a have second then back 1 again, it was weird. Also, everything goes to normal now as well after i blip the throttle when before things would go nuts.

Oh and yes i watch the videos but could probably use a refresher, kind of had tunnel vision working on the car the past month.
 

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glad i watched the videos again because i realized i didn't need to mess with Global fuel as much and focus more on MAFcomp and Deadtime more. Ill fix that today along with clearing the DTC and setting my injectors back to 950
 
It looks like you're on the right track. That idle log looks pretty good. Your fuel trims are good.

Don't worry about your ISCPosition bouncing between 28-32. It will change as it tries to adjust idle speed.

I'm not really familiar with tuning a GM 3" MAF so I won't comment on your MAFComp settings but you must be close as your fuel trims are good.

Jim
 
It looks like you're on the right track. That idle log looks pretty good. Your fuel trims are good.

Don't worry about your ISCPosition bouncing between 28-32. It will change as it tries to adjust idle speed.

I'm not really familiar with tuning a GM 3" MAF so I won't comment on your MAFComp settings but you must be close as your fuel trims are good.

Jim
Thanks man, i can not thank you enough for guiding me. Im working on it and there is a lot i do not know, but I'm learning. Working on the car last night i had a huge AHA moment and things just stated to click and make sense. Ill post a log later today of my progress. Again thank you so much for the help and putting up with my ignorance. i was really expecting the typical go search A-hole response.
Also, I just order a new LC-2 wide band for tuning cause the AEM i have is way off. My estimated A/F ratio was 14.7ish but my AEM wideband gauge was saying 15.7ish.

EDIT: found info to calibrate the AEM to match so canceled the order
 
Last edited:
Ok so been messing with the idle for a bit now. Seems like everything looks pretty good number wise, its a bit leaner then i would like but i think i can fix that.

So am i safe to go for a cruise and continue tuning closed loop or do i need to do some more tweaking?
 

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well i did 3 separate cruise logs. here is the last one. everything seems to be ok. However from here on out is total unseen territory for me. haha, should be fun
 

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  • log.2016.10.28-26.elg
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