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ECMlink Wont start when warm unless deadtime is changed

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,525
8,192
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
No leaks

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes

3). Verified base timing
Yes, 5*

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock, new with ARC2
Wire brand and Age: NGK new 6 months ago
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap:
NGK BR8ES at .020

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:200
Cylinder 2:200
Cylinder 3:190
Cylinder 4:200

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: good
Throttle Cable: good
TPS: adjusted via link
BISS: good

7). Compression ratio 10:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring? Brittle at coolant sensor, but in tact

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):12.7
Car running:13.2-13.5

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 1650

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: Bosch LC2
Calibration Date: 10/11/16

13). Type of fuel
Type:E85
Percent of Ethanol: 66

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? Yes


Now my question/problem:
Car starts after a couple of tries, no problem. After warm, it won't start unless I change the deadtime from 550 to 750 then back after it starts. EcmLink fellows have said "keystart" relay not working after it is hot. I will post a random log when I get home in a couple hours.

 
You didn't attach a log.

My first guess would be a bad CTS.
 
I am at work but can post up in about a hour or so...just as soon as I get done. I thought I could copy my log from the Ecm website but it wont let me
http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59229&d=1476483823
I don't know if that link will work or not. It is a random log, not a no start log but if you can view it, I am open to any and all suggestions. Doing my own tuning, but sometimes you just have to ask for a little help. Thanks Brett.
 
Also have a weird sputter at 3000-3200. Haven't been able to figure it out either.
 

Attachments

  • log.2016.09.26-05 sputters at 3000.elg
    261.7 KB · Views: 49
So, you're probably drowning the car with fuel on cold start. Cold starts on E85 suck, but when you're overly rich they can be impossible.

Global Fuel:
When I plug your injector size @ 43.5 PSI into ECMlink I'm showing you should be around -62.5%. You're currently at -52.3%. I'd start by trying to lean things out a bit by adjusting your global fuel.

Deadtime:
Do you have the spec sheet for the injectors? What model are these Bluemax or High-Z?

If the log in your post (post #3) is current, your CTS appears to be working correctly.
 
I can swap a coolant temp sensor from one of my other '90's and test to see if that helps along with soldering on a new CTS pigtail that I have. Thanks again. If you see anything else, just let me know and I can try it or what ever it is that others might suggest.
 
Man I don't have the spec sheet, they were a used but good set of old FIC 1650's. They don't say Bluemax, only FIC, but have a wide body and are low impedance. I made sure they sprayed well with my home made injector cleaner/tester and they did well and all looked the same. I was running FIC 1120's but the car was running out of fuel....IDC's were 100+ so I swapped in the 1650's. I am about to head home from work so I can get in and play with the global. I did the calculator but it just didn't like the settings so I am working it on my own...winging it. Appreciate your help Brett.
 
Your target idle is ridiculously high.

Your TPS needs to be adjusted.

Lean out your fuel settings and see if that helps with the cold starts. In absence of the injector data sheet, ECMlink's base injector data table shows FIC 1600's at 450 µsec. So I'd start with that, and the -62.5% global.

If the 1650s are low impedance they are Bluemax. Lots of people have lots of issues with the Bluemax injectors, so just keep that in mind. You may not get a perfect solution here...
 
Will do. I can change all of that and see how she likes it. If a new set wasn't so high I would just go with FIC's new 1800's I believe as they are E85 friendly. I might still have to. Thanks for hangin in there with me!
 
Can you change the cranking pulsewidth fuel?

I'm not sure how ecmlink handles it, but a stock ecu does not adjust this with the global inj size. So when you put big ones in you need to take some out. Again not sure how link handles that though.
 
Thanks Curt. Link has individual pulse width adjustment I THINK. I will look at it. I kinda am suspecting the injectors...but WOT works real good. Got my IDC's back down from 100 with the 1120's :banghead: She was just runnin outta fuel.
 
Can you change the cranking pulsewidth fuel?

I'm not sure how ecmlink handles it, but a stock ecu does not adjust this with the global inj size. So when you put big ones in you need to take some out. Again not sure how link handles that though.

Yeah, Curt is right.

The global fuel adjustment should be applied at all times. However, additional fuel is added during cranking based on the CrankingFuelAdj table, which can be tweaked in Direct Access. The amount of fuel added is based on the table and temperature at the time of cranking. You can log CrankingFuelAdj to see how much fuel is being added at any one time. You could also try and zero the curve and see if that helps.

Some more good info on cold start issues here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ha...ng-down-a-couple-hours.494635/#post-153526764

I've personally had overly rich fuel settings that caused cold and hot start issues, which is why I'm suggesting to start there.
 
CrankingFuelAdj will only work while the ECU is receiving a Keystart signal on ECU Pin #108. The attached log shows no Keystart signal.

Jim
 
I had this exact issue with the FIC 1650's....and the answer to your issue is not a happy one. I fought with this for 2 years before I finally figured it out. I had the same issue with deadtime/idle and the weird sputter at 3K-4K RPM.

Sorry to say the FIC BM 1650 is a terrible injector.

It is very unlinear at low pulse width (cruise/idle) hence your issue. It can actually end up flowing the exact same cc/min at the 2 different pulse widths. That is why deadtime is having such a huge effect on your idle.

TWDorris on ecmlink forums actually created several graphs for pulse width vs measure cc/min of several injectors. I linked the BM1650CC below...but to understand how it affects cruise/idle I would read the whole thread....it's a long one but totally worth it for advancing your injector knowledge overall.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showpost.php?p=555209&postcount=232


The deadtime by voltage only exacerbates the issue so I ended up buying a FIC easytune box (17V at any batt voltage all the time) so that I could use 1 deadtime for all voltage levels in Link and while it did get rid of the idle issue (kind of) it did not fix the sputter at 3-4K. In the end the fact that the flow rate can be the same at 2 different pulse widths meant that I could tune the MAFComp table for 1 end of the unlinear part of the curve and randomly end up lean....tune for the other end of the curve and randomly end up rich.

In the end I ditched the 1650 and I bought the FIC2150 high-z injector due to the fact that it has a quite linear profile at all flow rates. I have ran this setup (2150 and easy tune) for about 20K km's and they are the tits. At idle I am at 0.1% IDC and at 25 PSI and 7500RPM I'm at 22-26% IDC so I never have to worry about fuel ever again.

Such an awesome injector. FIC 2150 graphs:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/forums/showpost.php?p=501705&postcount=121
 
Last edited:
Jim are you positive on that from my knowledge the ECU didn't need a starter signal to know it was cranking although my knowledge is very limited to modifying the factory code Larry I would certainly start with getting the cranking signal fixed though because it sounds like it could be a culprit
 
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