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1G Double check shift box with TCU wiring

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enriquez2000

Proven Member
2,277
820
Oct 5, 2014
fort collins, Colorado
I get the idea and know how to wire in an on switch. My question is do i just splice wires to solenoid inline with diodes on? Diagram is a little funny looking to me and i want to understand fully before considering one.
 
This is for a 1993
My eclipse is a 1998 so the wiring is different but when I did it I drew it all out on a big white board with color coordination. I did mine a year ago so don't remember everything but if you need more help I can dig into it.

Wiring instructions:

  • IMPORTANT NOTE: If used with a TCU or other method of controlling the transmission, follow the instructions closely. Only one way of controlling the transmission should be powered on at one time to prevent unexpected control of the transmission or damage to the TCU. Use the supplied switch to switch between transmission controls or substitute a suitable relay. Updated!
  • If the transmission shifts from 1st to 4th to 3rd to 2nd, then the shift solenoid wires are reversed


Using the Shift Box BASIC with TCU or other transmission controller:


  • Red wire is +12 volt power from the ignition switch, connect as follows using switch harness

    * NOTE:
    On the fuse block there are 2 wires from the TCU fuse, both must be cut and spliced together through the supplied switch harness to prevent the TCU from being powered when the shift box is being used. Red wire to Green switch harness wire
    Yellow switch harness wire to fuse block harness (Power from TCU fuse)
    Brown switch harness wire to fuse block harness (This will power the TCU)
  • Black wire is ground, connect to a good clean chassis ground
  • White wire splices with the Tacho output from the ECU
  • Yellow wire goes to Shift Solenoid A
  • White/Yellow wire goes to the TCU Shift Solenoid A output
  • Brown wire goes to the Shift Solenoid B
  • White/Brown wire goes to the TCU Shift Solenoid B output
  • Optional wires for external shifter control:
    White/Black wire is the shift input common (sensor ground) for use with an external shifter
    Purple wire is the up-shift button (short to white/black wire to perform up-shift)
    White/Purple wire is the down-shift button (short to white/black wire to perform down-shift)
  • Any remaining wires should be capped
 
The wires that go from the TCU to the solenoids get cut. The X in the diagram means to cut it. It is not a representation of a diode.
 
The wires that go from the TCU to the solenoids get cut. The X in the diagram means to cut it. It is not a representation of a diode.
But i want to run a tcu and flip a switch to run the box not eliminate it, so i would need the tcu to be connected to solenoids... im sure its easy but im not comorehending
 
The comment I made about Shift box with TCU is set up for exactly that. You flip a switch and it goes to the shift box, you flip it back and it goes to the TCU.
 
Are you sure you are looking at the correct install diagram? The instructions GSXvsTSI posted are for the Forced Four Shift Box. If you bought it with the option to keep the stock TCU it includes the switch to turn the shift box off and on. This switch will allow you to run the stock TCU when off, and the shift box when on. Either way, the wires have to be cut just as the Forced Four diagram shows. And follow the instructions exactly. It's all color coded so you really can't screw it up.
 
Which shift box do you have? Like ATF 2GTalon said they are all color coded, so get out the coloring markers and a big piece of paper(I used markers and a white board) and draw it all out then make a key of which color to which color. It's not hard if you take it one step at a time.
 
I havent decided on one yet, im weighing options. I have a chipped tcu but its giving me issues so im thinking of going stock tcu and shift box.

This is what i was looking at and it shows the diodes i was talkin about.
 

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Look at forced four shift boxs. They have a few new ones that are freaking awesome! I wish they would have come out a little bit sooner because I would have bought one. I did not have to solder in any diodes and my switch works flawlessly with the shift box plus.
 
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