2G Questions regarding sea foam and oil change

Karmah · Jan 23, 2016

Hello, I've been reading up on doing seafoam on my car and have a couple questions, and also about putting Rotella T6 in since it's winter, and it gets really cold here so I really don't wanna use VR1 10w30 in these conditions.

I have unplugged the brake booster line to the intake manifold and am ready to add seafoam to the intake, but when I start my car my WB is really lean and the car idles around 700 and almost sounds like it's missing. I'm sure it's because there is excess air entering. Is this how it's supposed to be and then have someone hold the rpms at 2500-3000 while I have it suck the seafoam up? Is there an alternative way around it sputtering like that?

Next question, when using Rotella T6, I've read that it foams at higher RPMs and to use lucas oil additive. Is this true? If so, do I add 1 qt of the heavy duty oil stabilizer?

I'm really looking for specific answers to my questions as I don't want to mess this up and actually perform it correctly. I really appreciate any feedback you guys can give.

PS: I'll be doing the full seafoam treatment, so I have the new oil, OEM oil filter, and spark plugs.

ThunderChild · Jan 24, 2016

i would set up a drip system for the seafoam instead of running it through the open booster line. you run the chance of hydro-locking.

best bet would be to use another small vacuum port, possibly what your bov, fpr or boost gauge (if you have them) are attached to, and maybe even put a small restrictor in the line that you submerge in the seafoam canister.

just my opinion. until the seafoam is empty you shouldnt have a vacuum leak, and if you hang it high it will siphon/gravity feed while you hold the rpms around 2-2.5k. when your done, run the engine for another 10-20 min, or hook it back up normally, and take it for a short drive.

as far as the oil questions, i would say unless your hitting over 5.5-6k ALOT, then you would probably be fine running straight rotella, but a partial additive wouldnt hurt anything IMHO.

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

tametalon92 said:
i would set up a drip system for the seafoam instead of running it through the open booster line. you run the chance of hydro-locking.

best bet would be to use another small vacuum port, possibly what your bov, fpr or boost gauge (if you have them) are attached to, and maybe even put a small restrictor in the line that you submerge in the seafoam canister.

just my opinion. until the seafoam is empty you shouldnt have a vacuum leak, and if you hang it high it will siphon/gravity feed while you hold the rpms around 2-2.5k. when your done, run the engine for another 10-20 min, or hook it back up normally, and take it for a short drive.

as far as the oil questions, i would say unless your hitting over 5.5-6k ALOT, then you would probably be fine running straight rotella, but a partial additive wouldnt hurt anything IMHO.

I tried T-ing into my bov line aswell and I still get that leak that messes with the idle as well. It seems that when I read other people doing it they have no issues like that at all.

ThunderChild · Jan 24, 2016

Sounds like your not submerging the line enough, the hoses your using have holes or the T fitting is leaking somehow.

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

tametalon92 said:
Sounds like your not submerging the line enough, the hoses your using have holes or the T fitting is leaking somehow.

I'm talking before I submerge the hose. Will the car idle normal when the hose is submerged? I guess that wasn't clear enough.

ThunderChild · Jan 24, 2016

If you start the car with the hose in open air, then yes it will idle poorly and lean as it will have a vacuum leak.

I would plug the line and start the car. have your setup ready and unplug the hose, then immediately submerge it to limit time it has an open leak. After you've finished, be ready to plug the line and continue running the engine for at least a few min. You can plug the line and take it for a light drive to clear the manifold of any pudding or excess seafoam.

I now want to ask, why are you wanting to seafoam your engine exactly?

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

tametalon92 said:
If you start the car with the hose in open air, then yes it will idle poorly and lean as it will have a vacuum leak.

I would plug the line and start the car. have your setup ready and unplug the hose, then immediately submerge it to limit time it has an open leak. After you've finished, be ready to plug the line and continue running the engine for at least a few min. You can plug the line and take it for a light drive to clear the manifold of any pudding or excess seafoam.

I now want to ask, why are you wanting to seafoam your engine exactly?

Okay thank you... that makes so much more sense now. I didn't think it'd go away when the hose was submerged but it makes sense. I've recently seen a lot of reviews on it and people using it in DSMs and figured I'd try it out and see if I notice anything, and since I'm doing an oil change and replacing the oil switch it'd be a good time to test it out.

ThunderChild · Jan 24, 2016

No problem. I wouldn't necessarily do it unless you think your car has excessive carbon buildup on the back of the valves.
Past that, knock yourself out. Just monitor it so it doesn't suck up an excessive amount of fluid. You could always just seafoam the gas tank, and as it is sprayed out the injectors, it can clean from there on.
Personally I've never noticed a huge difference on any engine from vacuum feeding seafoam through the intake. If things are that dirty, you're better off pulling the intake and/or head to freshen it up and give it a good cleaning.

chrysler kid · Jan 24, 2016

Never really cared to seafoam from the intake, I mean I'm sure it helps but if it's not broken don't fix it.

I used it in my wife's trans am and added it to the crank case oil and it really helped to get rid of all of the engine sludge. It has really low miles but oil pressure has always been really high and it brought it back to normal with the treatment.

I'm using rotella 15w40 in my car, but I also filled the oil filter with 5w30 because I just wasn't comfortable with having something so thick. If you're worried about cold starts do a mix and put a quart of vr1 5w40 and the rest rotella.

In the cold weather I like to Let the car run for a minute or two to get the oil warm and all parts lubricated before you start rolling down the street

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'll try that.

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

Update: Haven't really noticed any benefits... Found 2 minor exhaust leaks from the smoke, and it seemed to have opened the leaks even more haha!

PlanZero · Jan 24, 2016

Rotella T6 stopped my lifter tick, it's just inconvenient that it comes in a gallon jug instead of 5 quarts.
Seafoam looks cool and scares the neighbors, but I think it's only a psychological benefit.

Karmah · Jan 24, 2016

PlanZero said:
Rotella T6 stopped my lifter tick, it's just inconvenient that it comes in a gallon jug instead of 5 quarts.
Seafoam looks cool and scares the neighbors, but I think it's only a psychological benefit.

I was able to grab Rotella T6 in quarts at Walmart actually!

ErikTande · Jan 25, 2016

PlanZero said:
Rotella T6 stopped my lifter tick, it's just inconvenient that it comes in a gallon jug instead of 5 quarts.
Seafoam looks cool and scares the neighbors, but I think it's only a psychological benefit.

It's fantastic for finding exhaust leaks. So that's a tangible benefit.

PlanZero · Jan 25, 2016

Yes seafoam is great for exhaust leaks, but there are other cheaper methods to make smoke.
And yes they sell T6 for $7 a quart or $22 a gallon at wally world, forcing you to buy bigger as per walmarts capitalist conspiracy.

Ludsm97 · Feb 27, 2016

Thinking about running the valvoline vr1 in my car, the car is built and I probably won't daily it but drive it around. Has anyone ran full vr1? And how often should I change the oil if I run full vr1

Karmah · Feb 27, 2016

My engine has stock internals and I run VR1 10w30 in the summer and rotells t6 in the winter. I try not to go over 3500 with either with normal beating on it and what not. Is my daily.

Ludsm97 · Feb 27, 2016

Karmah said:
My engine has stock internals and I run VR1 10w30 in the summer and rotells t6 in the winter. I try not to go over 3500 with either with normal beating on it and what not. Is my daily.

So I mean for the most part the vr1 is good for summer time? I live in Florida so it's pretty much got year round. So I guess I'll go with vr1

Karmah · Feb 27, 2016

Yeah it's great oil. High zinc, I live in MI, so I need a 5w for winter

dgdsm · Sep 11, 2016

PlanZero said:
Yes seafoam is great for exhaust leaks, but there are other cheaper methods to make smoke.

Are you saying other methods to find exhaust leaks, or to scare neighbors? I currently have a pending P0421, which I saw once before a few months ago and cleared itself on its own. I'm pretty sure it is an intermittent exhaust leak (can smell it) and am thinking of doing the Seafoam method to track it down.

PlanZero · Sep 11, 2016

You'll see the smoke coming from all the exhaust leaks. Helps to have someone eyeball under the car as well.

dgdsm · Sep 11, 2016

PlanZero said:
You'll see the smoke coming from all the exhaust leaks. Helps to have someone eyeball under the car as well.

I've done it before on another car, using the spray can product. My question was about the other ways or making smoke. I guess I could pour some oil into the combustion chamber but I'd rather not. Also would rather not throw any new codes.

PlanZero · Sep 11, 2016

Distilled water through a vacuum line works as well; keep the rpms above 2k so you don't vapor lock

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