kmetiuk
10+ Year Contributor
- 521
- 125
- Mar 10, 2010
-
Edmonton,
AB_Canada
I've searched and searched and read through a looooot of threads about prop valves but I am unable to find a concrete answer so far...
I upgraded my brakes on my 2G to the Evo 8/9 Brembos front and rear. I have JDM knuckles, 3G brake booster, 1 1/16" MBC and have replaced all the rubber lines with braided lines....also running 235/40/18 wheels.
Originally the brakes were AWESOME....so much stopping power.
Then I upgraded my suspension to the Koni yellows with 700 lb/in fronts and 350 lb/in rears.
The car was dropped to 5 1/4" all around measured from the pinch seam. Surprisingly the camber change wasn't as bad as I figured it would have been...only my rears need to be cambered back out a small bit. The change in handling and grip was insane. I cannot break the car loose in first gear at all anymore. Around a tight corner in the middle of a crazy rain storm I dropped the clutch hard with a full left turn and it simply will not break loose....just digs in hard and goes. High speed corners are super fun....its like its on rails now.
Anyways, with the suspension upgrade I noticed the braking improved a lot. It has decreased my stopping distances considerably. The weight transfer to the front is surprisingly high considering i have 700lb/in springs up there....the nose dives way more than you'd think.
With the weight transfer under heavy braking I am starting to get the rears locking up too soon and I am getting the dreaded rear-wants-to-rotate-around-and-become-the-front effect.
Not cool. Super scary the first time it happened. Now I have to modulate the pedal under heavy braking to get the max brake without the car trying to flip around. It still stops fast as fcuk...but I would like to reduce this effect and know I need to change the bias.
The issue I see with adjustable prop valves (like the Wilwood 260-11179 Proportioning Valve) is cars come with diagonally split brake ciruits (FR-RL and FL-RR).
I don't want to change the system to a front-rear circuit split and use the aforementioned valve due to the fact that the factory split really is the best safety wise.
So basically I need a prop valve (or 2 or 3) to try out and see if I can reduce the rear bias. I have read over and over that others have swapped out the prop valves after big brake swaps...but I am unable to find what prop valve they swapped it for.
The real issue is the suspension....it has totally changed the way the weight transfer occurs under braking so I don't think (could be wrong) its as simple as using the Evo 8 prop valve.
Does anyone know what prop valves have what % split front to rear?
I upgraded my brakes on my 2G to the Evo 8/9 Brembos front and rear. I have JDM knuckles, 3G brake booster, 1 1/16" MBC and have replaced all the rubber lines with braided lines....also running 235/40/18 wheels.
Originally the brakes were AWESOME....so much stopping power.
Then I upgraded my suspension to the Koni yellows with 700 lb/in fronts and 350 lb/in rears.
The car was dropped to 5 1/4" all around measured from the pinch seam. Surprisingly the camber change wasn't as bad as I figured it would have been...only my rears need to be cambered back out a small bit. The change in handling and grip was insane. I cannot break the car loose in first gear at all anymore. Around a tight corner in the middle of a crazy rain storm I dropped the clutch hard with a full left turn and it simply will not break loose....just digs in hard and goes. High speed corners are super fun....its like its on rails now.
Anyways, with the suspension upgrade I noticed the braking improved a lot. It has decreased my stopping distances considerably. The weight transfer to the front is surprisingly high considering i have 700lb/in springs up there....the nose dives way more than you'd think.
With the weight transfer under heavy braking I am starting to get the rears locking up too soon and I am getting the dreaded rear-wants-to-rotate-around-and-become-the-front effect.
Not cool. Super scary the first time it happened. Now I have to modulate the pedal under heavy braking to get the max brake without the car trying to flip around. It still stops fast as fcuk...but I would like to reduce this effect and know I need to change the bias.
The issue I see with adjustable prop valves (like the Wilwood 260-11179 Proportioning Valve) is cars come with diagonally split brake ciruits (FR-RL and FL-RR).
I don't want to change the system to a front-rear circuit split and use the aforementioned valve due to the fact that the factory split really is the best safety wise.
So basically I need a prop valve (or 2 or 3) to try out and see if I can reduce the rear bias. I have read over and over that others have swapped out the prop valves after big brake swaps...but I am unable to find what prop valve they swapped it for.
The real issue is the suspension....it has totally changed the way the weight transfer occurs under braking so I don't think (could be wrong) its as simple as using the Evo 8 prop valve.
Does anyone know what prop valves have what % split front to rear?