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1995 Talon AMB Aero Hill Climb Special

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As for your other questions. It is fiberglass and will have a diffuser. He has moved the louvres over the fenders a bit and a few other tweaks that I couldn't begin to explain. And, as mentioned above I will be using the APR GT-1000 wing which you may or may not be aware was also designed by Andrew. On a whole the kit looks fairly similar to the "old" one. I will only be running a small front splitter to start as I DOUBT the crazy 300mm one he runs would clear on the switchbacks in the hill climb. But could easily be added later and the wing will only be about half way on the AOA so there will be room to grow so to speak with regards to rear down force to make up for any increase in front down force.

What spring rates are you running?

Cheers
The GT 100 is a great wing. Andrew did a great job and APR does top notch work. My car will have it. The spring rates are to soft for the new splitter . I have not even thought much about it honestly. To many other things to do. Around 750 is what robi set it up at.
 
I am running 1k in the front with the same suspension setup as Kevin, as well as the same revised front splitter, per recommendations of Andrew and Robi. I was able to choose my spring rates about year or two after Andrew had spent a bunch of time testing things on their car with the new splitter, and John F (on the original smaller splitter) had some time around VIR. I was also suggested to run 650 in the rear to start out. I imagine both of those numbers will change once I have the car's final corner weights and actual idea of the down force levels pushing on the car. I haven't been around the track personally on it yet so these are best guesses from the only guys I know to ask.

I run the GT1000 air foil as well in the rear.

My setup is pretty much a clone of Andrew and Kevin, so my input probably not much more than reinforcement of their opinion.

Kevin, when are we doing the push rod setups so we can offset the down force better? :p
 
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The GT 100 is a great wing. Andrew did a great job and APR does top notch work. My car will have it. The spring rates are to soft for the new splitter . I have not even thought much about it honestly. To many other things to do. Around 750 is what robi set it up at.

Makes sense. I am going to run 650's this year for springs as that is the max i can go without revalving my shocks. Once I try that out ill think about what to do with the shocks. I will only be using the gt1000 to about half of its potential DF because im running a fairly conservative splitter due to how rough the hill climb is. I will be getting a larger splitter to run on road courses and such in the future. I believe some of the guys are running 900lb/in springs with andrews kit so 650 will still be a bit soft. That being said I also top out around 120mph on the hill climb so the huge downforce numbers dont come into play....sub 2000lbs.
 
so what did you all decide on spring rate wise?

ive been doing some working out and using our motion ratios, and as im not running a big rear with but will be running a splitter, i got it matched nicely on paper as from every where i read and even here matching is key and using motion ratios is a very vital part of it so they all say!

this is based from F = 784LB and R = 616LB starting spring rates

i got down these rates after the maths.

F M/R 0.75 maths in the middle and the end rate is 441LB
R M/R 0.86 maths in the middle and the end rate is 455LB

this is also works out real close to what John F told me to do and thats hald the non worked out rate so 784LB divide by 2 and add 10% but in this case its close to 17% to get an equal match between motion ratios! granted not all rates come out the same but I believe to be on the right track myself!

anyone care to correct me please do but from the videos and videos and forums ive looked in motion rations play a HUGE role in getting the best and is said to be better to get this right when setting up then weighing the car but im not sure i agree with that part myself though but it sure helps
 
so what did you all decide on spring rate wise?

ive been doing some working out and using our motion ratios, and as im not running a big rear with but will be running a splitter, i got it matched nicely on paper as from every where i read and even here matching is key and using motion ratios is a very vital part of it so they all say!

this is based from F = 784LB and R = 616LB starting spring rates

i got down these rates after the maths.

F M/R 0.75 maths in the middle and the end rate is 441LB
R M/R 0.86 maths in the middle and the end rate is 455LB

this is also works out real close to what John F told me to do and thats hald the non worked out rate so 784LB divide by 2 and add 10% but in this case its close to 17% to get an equal match between motion ratios! granted not all rates come out the same but I believe to be on the right track myself!

anyone care to correct me please do but from the videos and videos and forums ive looked in motion rations play a HUGE role in getting the best and is said to be better to get this right when setting up then weighing the car but im not sure i agree with that part myself though but it sure helps

You are over my head on this one dude. I was told for my setup i should be a little(10%) stiffer in the rear and the stiffest i can go on my current shocks is 650. So I am going to try 600f and 650r. I will order them in the same length and then if i don't like that i can try it the other way around or use my current 500's from the front to adjust it some more. Worst case i buy a few sets of springs and can dial the car in depending on the track and amount of downforce I am generating.
 
You are over my head on this one dude. I was told for my setup i should be a little(10%) stiffer in the rear and the stiffest i can go on my current shocks is 650. So I am going to try 600f and 650r. I will order them in the same length and then if i don't like that i can try it the other way around or use my current 500's from the front to adjust it some more. Worst case i buy a few sets of springs and can dial the car in depending on the track and amount of downforce I am generating.
Trust me im no expert but i did a hell of alot of reading and figuring out on a calculator as i dont do maths or originally understand the way it was put to do the workings out haha but i got there in the end! If i can do it then anyone can! And i mean that as im not the most smartest guy in the pack LOL.

You said max is 650? So can i assume you have the DG koni setup? If you do then ive just been talking to another guy on here and he is running them on 800Lb springs! Sorry if im wrong on your setup and i have not looked at the profile for info on this to confirm.
 
Trust me im no expert but i did a hell of alot of reading and figuring out on a calculator as i dont do maths or originally understand the way it was put to do the workings out haha but i got there in the end! If i can do it then anyone can! And i mean that as im not the most smartest guy in the pack LOL.

You said max is 650? So can i assume you have the DG koni setup? If you do then ive just been talking to another guy on here and he is running them on 800Lb springs! Sorry if im wrong on your setup and i have not looked at the profile for info on this to confirm.

I have Koni Yellows yup.... That is good to know. Still dont know if the kit is going to make it to me in time to get it on the car...but should have a better idea soon.
 
Still waiting for a peak at your new aero parts...Any updates?
Unfortunately they aren't completed yet. Hopefully sometime this year!!!

I am working on weight reduction at the moment and have pulled about 30 lbs out of each door and removed the sunroof and welded the roof from a non sunroof car which should be about 26 lbs lighter.

Will be weighing the car in the next few weeks. Hopefully in the low 2700 lb range.

Cheers
 
Hit up a track last week. Didnt get much track time at all but went second fastest out of 18 cars with a stall on turn 1 due to a fuel pickup issue. apparently half a tank and 1.4 g doesnt work well. LOL

Quick vid.

Update on the aero kit....the kit should be ready to ship to me in the next 2-3 months or soooooo....see if that ends up being true!

talon%20mission_zpsllxvhzws.jpg
 
PS This is also on a PF3582HTA now. Worked great at 26psi for a first run on it. Cant wait to get everything dialed in and turn the boost up.

Seems to spool about the same or a little better than my FP3065 did and the response is much better between lifts.
 
So you got no profile with info and specs etc, what brakes you running and how you finding that driven steering wheel? Ive been looking at them, they seem decent and the price is pretty good aswell, the video looks good,
 
Hey, wicked car, glad to see a fellow Okanagan member! How do you like the current wing and front splitter setup you have?
 
So you got no profile with info and specs etc, what brakes you running and how you finding that driven steering wheel? Ive been looking at them, they seem decent and the price is pretty good aswell, the video looks good,

Sorry...i really need to update that stuff. I love the driven steering wheel. Its light and not as expensive as the "others"

I am running stock pads with Hawk Blues in the front and Hawk HP+ in the rear.....it is no where near enough brakes for 500hp. But my main focus is hillclimb in which it is enough. I am going to upgrade the brakes soon!

Hey, wicked car, glad to see a fellow Okanagan member! How do you like the current wing and front splitter setup you have?

Its better than stock...but thats about all i know. As Andrew Brilliant will tell you, you really have no idea what things are going to do without CFD analysis. The car is very neutral. My biggest issue right now is brakes and i need much stiffer suspension and sway bars.

Thanks for looking!
 
Im not proud of that lap in anyway. But, they were my first two laps ever on that track, and due to some issues i never got any more clean laps. There was some serious time and smoothness to be had there. Considering i was only 2 seconds off the fastest car on my second ever lap Ill take it and look forward to hitting up that track again some time.

The car and I usually reside in Fort McMurray Alberta not Penticton. Penticton is where my parents live and where i grew up. Ive been hanging around here on holidays for the last few weeks. Headed back to alberta tomorrow.
 
Word is that I should have the Kit shipped to me by christmas so that is good news!!!

Im going to start pulling the car apart and getting ready to install everything in the mean time.

Anyone got a GT1000 they want to sell me? LOL
 
Front Brake Upgrade

So i decided i have had enough of the stock brakes so i called up TCE Performance and got a set of 2 piece 13.06x1.25 inch rotors and the Wilwood FSL 4 Piston Race Calipers. The "track" kit on their site comes with 1.1 inch thick rotors and I upgraded to 1.25 inch. Aside from that it is as stated on their site.

Plus 4: The TCE 13" street/track kit- $1249
  • Wilwood Forged Super Lite (FSL) 4 piston calipers
  • TCE steel mount brackets
  • TCE aluminum hats
  • 13 x 1.10" directional cast rotors
  • Gas slotted
  • BP10 pads
  • TCE spec stainless steel hose kit
  • All required hardware
  • Optional Wilwood FNSL6 calipers- ADD $375 (incl. RD or BK finish)
  • Optional Drilled/Slotted rotors- ADD $150
  • Optional RED caliper color- ADD $125 (FSL)
Comparing the stock AWD front rotors to the Wilwood kit.

FullSizeRender_zpsnoe4fwan.jpg


The rotor sitting on the hub. If you order these make sure you know if you have the stepped hub or not because they will send you different centric rings depending on that. One stud missing because I am in the process of putting ARP studs in.

IMG_4800_zpsiawbr1qy.jpg


Caliper Mounted...the bracket fit nicely and i only had to use 1 0.015inch spacer to center the caliper perfectly on the rotor. Socket sitting on top just to show how thick the rotors are. They look like they are from a 1 ton truck. It is AWESOME!

IMG_4804_zpsxuqxmehz.jpg


These calipers are very wide. The pads are 20mm thick and as i mentioned the rotor is 1.25 inches so your biggest issue will be clearing the spokes of the wheel. I have now put all the bolts in that hold the hat to the rotor but was just test fitting things for now so that is why they are not there.

IMG_4806_zpsc6y7gdlq.jpg


Here they are with my "New" wheel mounted up. This is an 18x10 with +15 offset and a 275/35 tire mounted up just for test fit. There is tons of room with these wheels but my old wheel sitting on the ground wouldnt even close to clear the spokes. The 17 did clear the barrel of the wheel.

IMG_4803_zpsshmycb7h.jpg


It is the middle of winter here so i wont get to test these for awhile.....

I will get into the weight difference in my next post.... coming shortly.
 
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Tubular Front Subframe...work in progress.

I got this beautiful piece from True Street Tuning. Josh is great to deal with and i look forward to getting this installed.

IMG_4890_zpsdr9ldrek.jpg


As i mentioned in the post above I will talk about the weight of the brakes and lower control arms. The lower control arms from Josh's kit are about 6.5 lbs for the pair vs 12.9 for the stockers per side. The rotors weighed 3lbs more than the stockers and the calipers a whopping 9 lbs less. Simple math here would say 12 lbs a side drop in weight. In actuality that didnt happen because there are the adaptor brackets and all the hardware and what not as well which i didn't weigh initially. But, the result is still very good in my opinion. The stock setup shown along side the new setup here was 62lbs and with the new goodies on it came out to 52lbs. 10lbs less per side!! And that is before we take into account the sub frame weight loss! I dont know how much more the new wheel and tire combo will weigh since i dont have the 315 slicks that are going on there yet. But, i don suspect it to be more than a few lbs different. If i can go from 10.7 inch brakes/225 slicks/ 17 inch wheels to 13.1 inch brakes/315 slicks/18 inch wheels and be net negative on weight I am going to be very happy.

IMG_5344_zps12x25gll.jpg


Just mocking things up before i put the whole thing in the car. I am Canadian so there has to be a hockey puck involved in every job. As far as i can tell it looks like everything should work fine.

IMG_5345_zpsfpxbwkre.jpg


Right now i have everything but the power steering rack out of the car. Just need to do that and then the stock subframe can come down. From what i can tell at this point the sub frame itself is right around 20lbs lighter than the stock one. I will need to make a new "north/south" bar that the front engine mount is on which will also be tubular and i would hope be lighter than the stock one. As for the sway bar it sounds like i can weld some tabs on the new subframe to accept it pretty much like stock. Waiting to do that as well as I have some RM sway bars coming. I will update once i get a little further on this part of the project.
 
Great build.

Dude... that front subframe is the sexiest thing I've ever seen. I had NO idea someone was making one. Is it built with better suspension geometry in mind? How much did it cost? (you can PM me that if you'd like)
 
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