Pulling the transmission for the first time

dk7868 · May 5, 2016

First some history,
Bought a 95 GST because it was my first car and wanted something identical that didn't need near as much work. I ended up paying 1300 for it because it had a spun bearing. I've gotten to the point of dropping the transmission and now I'm stuck. All just to remove the Crank. ↓↓↓

I'm in the middle of pulling my transmission and have pretty much been following the steps from jafromobile (on youtube but read about him on here). He used a jack to hold his engine up when he separated the transmission from the engine. Is this a MUST? I haven't unbolted the engine from anything. I just don't want to be under the car having a buddy pop the last bolt out and have engine and transmission come crashing down. Coming in like a wrecking ball some might say LOL

TIA for any help or suggestions. This step has been holding me up for about a week.

dexterholland04 · Aug 4, 2016

Did you pull the one small bolt on the lower backside of the transmission under the starter? It goes in the opposite direction of the other main trans bolts. Threads into the trans, goes through the ear of the block. AWD transmissions have them, and so should the FWD ones.

dk7868 · Aug 4, 2016

dexterholland04 said:
Did you pull the one small bolt on the lower backside of the transmission under the starter? It goes in the opposite direction of the other main trans bolts. Threads into the trans, goes through the ear of the block. AWD transmissions have them, and so should the FWD ones.

yeah. that was the last bolt I pulled... the whole thing wiggles and there is a gap between the Trans and engine. I thought it could be because it was in gear but I reassured that it is in neutral

luv2rallye · Aug 4, 2016

Make sure the gap between the trans and engine is the same all around the bell housing. This will help to make sure the tranny input shaft (that goes into the clutch disk) is straight (not cockeyed) so it can slip out. Also you may have to rotate the tranny so the diff part (where axles go) doesn't hit the cross member (cross member gets in the way unless you rotate tranny so diff part is on top). Removing radiator also helps so you can move engine/tranny a little forward to miss cross member. If it is really bad you may have to remove cross member.

gofast63 · Aug 4, 2016

Man handle it. Just don't go crazy on it. Also dont forget to take your clutch slave cylinder off.

gofast63 · Aug 4, 2016

luv2rallye said:
Make sure the gap between the trans and engine is the same all around the bell housing. This will help to make sure the tranny input shaft (that goes into the clutch disk) is straight (not cockeyed) so it can slip out. Also you may have to rotate the tranny so the diff part (where axles go) doesn't hit the cross member (cross member gets in the way unless you rotate tranny so diff part is on top). Removing radiator also helps so you can move engine/tranny a little forward to miss cross member. If it is really bad you may have to remove cross member.

I seconded this as well. I always take the cross member off. Makes life so much easier. If I remember right there four 17mm bolts. But when you are prying on this, pry one side at a time .

dexterholland04 · Aug 4, 2016

dk7868 said:
yeah. that was the last bolt I pulled... the whole thing wiggles and there is a gap between the Trans and engine. I thought it could be because it was in gear but I reassured that it is in neutral

Then there is a decent chance that the hub of the clutch disk could be bent. I had run in to this issue on a friends car before...you're going to have to get it off as straight as possible. As others have said, you can manhandle it within reason...

ThunderChild · Aug 4, 2016

There've been a few ppl with siezed clutch disks on the input shafts recently, splines are twisted into the disk hub.

Might want to try taking the clutch fork gasket out and taking the pressure plate bolts out through there with a small wrench. You may have to make/modify a special tool. This would eliminate all remaining possible mechanical connections from the engine to trans, and it should come off then.

Worst case, use a bore scope to see if the clutch hub is siezed.
I've also had the inner fender liner get in the way of trans removal if not removed, so check all the surrounding small things.

dk7868 · Aug 5, 2016

I got it off... I thought the clutch was supposed to come off with it but it stayed on with the flywheel :idontknow:

... now just waiting on the new parts to get here... any recommendations as far as upgrades to crank, pistons, rods, clutch, flywheel while I have it this far apart?

pauleyman · Aug 5, 2016

No clutch does not come off with it obviously. Start a new thread

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