I doubt that is the actual problem. Teeing off the BOV is not ideal, but it works.

More than likely its a pre-turbo exhaust leak, or a intake/charge piping leak (aka boost leak).

Check for exhaust leaks between the manifold and head, and turbo and manifold. (Look for soot, and listen for ticking noises)

Then do a boost leak test (google how to build a boost leak tester and how to do a boost leak test, tons of videos on youtube on the subject) You can build a boost leak test for about 10$ or less in materials.

so im thinking of just buying a gasket set for turbo and exhaust gasket and redo them?

my1st2genGSX said:

so im thinking of just buying a gasket set for turbo and exhaust gasket and redo them?

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Never hurts, but I wouldn't recommend just throwing money at parts hoping to fix the problem unless you know you have blown gaskets/exhaust leaks.

Like Tanro recommended, look up how to complete a boost leak test on the car and that can at least rule out some potential causes.

Looking at it in the past few hours I did notice that there is one bolt missing out of the exhaust manifold.

my1st2genGSX said:

Looking at it in the past few hours I did notice that there is one bolt missing out of the exhaust manifold.

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That might be because it's stripped but one bolt missing doesn't always mean it is leaking. Do a BLT like others have mentioned. It's 90% most likely your problem.

Fix the boost source, it should NOT be T'd with the BOV.

BLT?? haven't heard this term?

Welcome to the site. So members can better help you out going forward, creating a profile for your car. For instruction, see this thread:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/welcome-to-dsmtuners-now-go-create-a-dsm-profile.499707/


You need to pressurize the intake system. On this site, it is referred to as a BLT (Boost Leak Test). You should check out the links below to see this procedure in action.



I do not remember if the video mentions it, but complete a BLT on a warm engine. In addition to intake pipes, spray warm, soapy water around the throttle body,fuel injector seals, and above/underneath intake manifold.

The BLT can be tested at the compressor housing, after the compressor housing, or near/at the throttle body to track down leaks.

cool thanks, that was the other thing I was going to check out.

So real quick, is there anyone out there that could post a pic of the way the waste gate line and bov line should go to.. i have the idea i just want to make sure its the way I'm thinking of

I also forgot to put that i have no emissions on my gsx. its a j spec cyclone jdm motor. so with that being said is there one with just straight to the point pic..thanks.

Emissions aside, the diagram above has what you need regardless of the intake manifold you have. Just look at the relevant stuff for your purpose. In the diagram above the "bypass valve" is the bov.

my1st2genGSX said:

Looking at it in the past few hours I did notice that there is one bolt missing out of the exhaust manifold.

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A bolt from where is missing on the manifold? To the turbo or to the head? Those 4 bolts holding the turbo are necessary to mantain a proper seal. If one is missing chances are the halves are clamshelling at that corner and leaking which would hinder spooling. But you would hear a massive exhaust leak happening.

When my T25 turbo had some massive shaft play it would spool at mid rpm's but then fall flat on its face on higher rpm's. The engine could breathe faster than what the turbo could supply. Easy way to verify this is remove the intake and move the compressor wheel, if you have side to side and front to back shaft play, then that's probably your culprit. I did not have any oil burning nor any other tall tale sign of a bad turbo. I'd also do a boost leak test either way just to have everything kosher.

AdR said:

When my T25 turbo had some massive shaft play it would spool at mid rpm's but then fall flat on its face on higher rpm's.

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This is how the T25 performed even without shaft play.....

When my T25 turbo had some massive shaft play it would spool at mid rpm's but then fall flat on its face on higher rpm's. The engine could breathe faster than what the turbo could supply. Easy way to verify this is remove the intake and move the compressor wheel, if you have side to side and front to back shaft play, then that's probably your culprit. I did not have any oil burning nor any other tall tale sign of a bad turbo. I'd also do a boost leak test either way just to have everything kosher.

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You T-25 fell flat on it's face since it is a t-25. It literally cannot keep up with the engine. Shaft play has no bearing on amount of boost possible unless the turbo fins or bearings are significantly damaged.

To the OP. what is done to the car? Please make a profile of your vehicle so we can better understand what is happening. Lastly, for the love of all things holy, do a BOOST LEAK TEST.

2gmitsueclipse said:

This is how the T25 performed even without shaft play.....

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Well yes if you are adding more psi over stock. Mine mantained stock psi levels all through the rev range. When it was broken it spooled to stock levels and then fell into the 3-5psi range by redline.

I will be doing a boost leak test. i know that will help with my diag. just with the hours i work its difficult sometime. but will keep every one posted

Update

Performed the boost leak test and found 2 leaks one at the j pipe and a intercooler pipe. Fixed and now holds 15-20psi. I can now boost up to 15 lbs before I run out of street. Thanks for everyone's advice and input.