Okay so I will hopefully be competing in some autocross and road course racing eventually. And I know keeping temps down is a decent issue with installing a big fmic. So I'm looking at getting a performance one over the stock to try and help this problem. Was looking at mishimoto x line, koyo race radiator, and the fluidyne? are there any other alternatives than those 3? i will also be hopefully installing a shroud and slim fans so what are you guys opinions on best performer in that price range, Thanks in advance!

(and also as a side note, what do these radiators add to the total coolant capacity when you install one, because im assuming the bigger end tanks will add more)

i have found some threads about some, but none that are really current, ie, didn't know if quality on one or the other has improved in the last years or the oppisite!

Honestly, the OEM radiator an fan setup is pretty decent. I would only go with an aftermarket unit when it is time for replacement. You profile shows that you are on a 14b, so you still should have plenty of room for the stock fan setup. You would be best served with:

• Sealing the area between the FMIC and radiator to ensure air is flowing through the radiator, and not elsewhere.
• Inspect all hoses for signs of wear and replace as necessary.
• Perform a pressure test on the cooling system.
• I would also have heat shielding around the exhaust manifold and o2 housing to keep the heat where it belongs.
• I am not sure if you can do this with the Evo 8 ECU/Tactrix setup, but you may be able to have the fans come on at a lower temperature.
• Some run a lower temp thermostat, but I still run the OE thermostat.

If you still decide to go aftermarket, there are other options, but may require some fabrication.

I choose fluidyne when I needed to buy my new radiator due to my oem unit top tank failing. My oem setup never had cooling issues till the plastic gave way otherwise I would have stayed oem. I don't feel you will get any scientific based recommendation regarding your question because I seriously doubt anyone spent the time or money to actual compare and or test these unit in a shootout. There are better cores made but I believe the options you sited are the only ones made to fit and bolt into our cars. The other would require end tank & mounting locations fabbed up. Griffin makes good cores.

I run the mishimoto in my 95 talon, haven't had any complaints. However with a turbo that requires a J pipe I was not able to run oem fans. They hit the J pipe. I just used slim line fans and all is well

I have a fluidyne in mine, but I got it stupid-cheap used. I've actually noticed that my car tends to run pretty cool (as far as the stock gauge goes) in anything under about 70* ambient. I'm running Samco hoses, gates pump, stock temp thermostat and 1 pass side fan.
If it's under 70*, I actually need to block about 60% of the rad to get it to temp. The stock fan I had to trim a support out of to fit the J pipe in, but it works fine.
If you're stock or won't go far from, id say keep a stock setup and put money elsewhere. If u want an aftermarket rad for longevity, id say a mishimoto or fluidyne, cost permitting. Spal fans with good wiring should keep things cool enough.

I have a Kayo with stock fans and its been perfect temp and when it get to start being hot I change thermostat to a cooler one

All radiators are about the same. It's really depends on cfm when it comes to cooling efficiency. You need 1300-1600cfm on 4 cylinders according to summit racing. I have an eBay civic radiator with a derale 1600cfm fan. 85* days and no issues.

...another thing worth mentioning, isolating your water pipe from heat soak coming off of the block and exhaust manifold/turbine housing by wrapping it with heat reflective tape will significantly help coolant temps also.

Everyone's quick to jump into a higher capacity aluminum radiator or fans but there's still a lot to be done in terms of improving the stock coolant system that costs half as much as a aluminum radiator. Reflective tape in key areas, i.e. water pipe, along with heat blankets on the exhaust manifold/turbine housing which isolate the heat in your exhaust won't only help with coolant temps but also turbo spool-up, etc.

This is why you replace the stock radiator, the plastic end tanks.

Gofer, I'd just like to say thanks for the advice, as well as how awesome it's been reading your build thread!! Definitely looking forward to seeing it be up to date!!

And just curious. Would getting the water pipe, or anything else ceramic coated help? I literally just dropped off everything that came out of my engine bay to get powder coated/ ceramic coated. I originally was going to have him just powder coat the water pipe, do you think having it ceramic coated would be more benificial?

Thanks for the build thread compliments, I'm looking forward to updating it live too instead of trying to play catch-up.


You're trying to reflect the heat, blocking it from heat soaking the coolant system. Ceramic coating is designed to retain the heat, it doesn't reflect it which is what you're trying to do. My exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and o2 housing are all ceramic coated with the best stuff I could find locally and I still noticed a significant difference in coolant temps when I put that FP exhaust manifold blanket over my manifold. My coolant temps hover around 160* at cruising speeds but at idle they'd climb to 200*, which I always blamed my undersized radiator fan for. I installed a heat blanket on my FP manifold and idle coolant temps don't go much over 180* now. Technically, the fan wasn't able to maintain the lower CT's because of it's size however, the reason my CT's were creeping up was because the exhaust manifold was heat soaking everything. Now my fan has no problem maintaining the 180*'ish CT's while I sit in traffic or wait at a drive-thru.

DEI makes decent reflective tape, recommend using this stuff if you go with them. Reflect-A-Cool

The GREAT stuff is made by Aerolite, which is what Brian has his water pipe wrapped up in. You can buy it from these guys... Coast Fabrication

Like guys are here telling you , good fans,ducting, some heat shielding all in combination with the stock radiator and youll be all set. I took extra steps and did bumper cutouts and will adding a hood vent this week, however temps in stop and go and cruise stay in the 180s in 90 plus degree weather.
Ps. I also built a plastic undertray for my car which also seems to have helped keep my alternator cool constant 14.6 volts where as before mid 13s and lower.

gofer said:

The GREAT stuff is made by Aerolite, which is what Brian has his water pipe wrapped up in. You can buy it from these guys... Coast Fabrication

Click to expand...

Call to order...So what, no pricing online?

GST with PSI said:

Call to order...So what, no pricing online?

Click to expand...

Yea, that's how you get the good stuff. I believe Earl's Holley sells it too but I couldn't find it on their site but same thing, call to order. From what I understand it can only be purchases in 30' rolls so they have to cut it for you.

Worth it.

Not sure the price per sq/ft tho.

An external oil cooler is a more much more effective cooling upgrade imo

gofer said:

Yea, that's how you get the good stuff. I believe Earl's Holley sells it too but I couldn't find it on their site but same thing, call to order. From what I understand it can only be purchases in 30' rolls so they have to cut it for you.

Worth it.

Not sure the price per sq/ft tho.

Click to expand...

This is the price and info from when we purchased in 2011.

$24.85/liner foot
15" wide x X' long

silver front
capton-based material sandwiched between foil and adhesive
3M adhesive on back
96% of heat reflected, up to 1100°


For what it's worth, we never did testing to see if the foil helped at all, but it's certainly not hurting.

gofer said:

I installed a heat blanket on my FP manifold and idle coolant temps don't go much over 180* now. Technically, the fan wasn't able to maintain the lower CT's because of it's size however, the reason my CT's were creeping up was because the exhaust manifold was heat soaking everything. Now my fan has no problem maintaining the 180*'ish CT's while I sit in traffic or wait at a drive-thru.

Click to expand...

Your temps stay around 180*?

Are you still on the OEM thermastat? I didnt think it opened untell 180*. What size intercooler core are you running?

Im very impressed by you temps. I know of one other 2g car that can stay under 190*

Im on the quest for 190* and under. As of now, i run from 197* to 204*. Thats with a new mishimoto radiator, cheap mishimoto slim fans, stock thermostat and a 3 inch fmic... I also run a blanket on my fp mani, and have my hotside of the turbo coated. But my 02 housing, and external wastegate is not coated, and has no heat shield.