The short answer.. YES.

Can I inquire as to why you want to rev to 9K? Drag racing? 35r or larger turbo setup?

Also, forgot to mention that it's a 7 bolt block

Not worth it in such a small turbo. Look at my mod list, I shift at 9500. That should give you an idea on what you would want/need.

Honestly, I just think a street car revving to 9K would be awesome. Plan on doing most of my racing on the track, but I wanna mess around on the street a little bit.

Alright, thanks for the info. Like I said, don't know much about 4cyl cars, I was a die hard chevy guy until I fell in love with this car. Any new stuff I can learn helps to stay the ignorance, so I appreciate the info.

The issue isn't so much the engine. It's getting the trans to shift at those RPM's..

gfritz25 said:

Honestly, I just think a street car revving to 9K would be awesome. Plan on doing most of my racing on the track, but I wanna mess around on the street a little bit.

Click to expand...

Revving to 9K is awesome, but when your running a 16g turbo, it will tap out well before then, so there's no point. Depending on what 16g you'll probably be shifting in the 7-7.5K range, any more then that & you'll just be making noise & not going anywhere quick.

I shift at 8.5K on my setup, have enough turbo/the parts to support higher but with my current cams, there isn't much point. I don't drag race any more, so I prefer the powerband of my current cams.

As Jayson said, if your running a stock tranny, it not going to like shifting at those rpms either.

Trans will be getting built here very soon, as soon as I can get enough saved. Honestly couldn't tell you what 16g turbo it is, haven't torn into the car much. How would I identify which it is?

Your turbo is done at that point. The 272s are prolly basically just about done at that point to. There is no point to rev the setup out that far because its just excessive wear. The amount of abuse the drivetrain will take isnt worth it.
My old laser had a stock motor with a 16G. I shifted the car at 6K. Stock rev limiter is 7500. The setup was done at 6K and shifting it any higher slows the car down because after 6K the power dropped off pretty hard. Same thing for you except the 272s are trying to shift the power upward but they will suck the turbo dry quicker up top.
Id shift it out at 7500-8000 at the most but you will have to see on how the car feels up at those RPMs and make your own judgement

Copied from a dsmtalk page:
I believe these numbers are on the compressor housing.....

49178-01(40)0: 14B
49178-01(41)0: Big 16G
49178-01(42)0: Big 16G
49178-01(45)0: Evo I Big 16G
49178-01(46)0: Evo II Big 16G
49178-01(47)0: EVO III 16G
49178-01(52)0: Small 16G

As others have reinforced to you, unless you swap the 16g for a 35r sized turbo (60mm) or larger, revving the car that high is putting extra strain on the engine / drive line.

I think it's important to take note of what these guys (along with myself) are telling you. Your setup will be CAPABLE of 9K RPM, however, there is NO NEED to rev the car that high.

Another thing to consider (along with the trans rebuild), is the addition of a GOOD quality clutch. Single or twin/triple disc is up to you. Single disc clutches (like the ever popular ACT 2600), have NO BUSINESS shifting at 9K RPM. They will shift, but your MUCH better off with a good twin disc (Quarter Master, PTT, ACT, Comp. Clutch, etc). Keep in mind a twin disc (like the Quarter Master 8 leg), is nearly $2,000 (after shipping, and having the ring gear pressed on).

A quick search will help you identify your 16g. However if you post a CLEAR pic, showing the stamping number (EVO 3 16g is stamped 47 for example), we can more then likely tell you have you have.

I have a pte dbb 57 trim turbo and when i do a pull and log it i see that the power starts to drop off after 6700 rpm. so for me to rev past 7000 rpm is pointless . i would rather shift sooner so i can get back in the power band . but with a larger turbo , a sheet metal intake and different cams it would change the power band higher and make more power up top .

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help. Any recommendations for a clutch that would be able to reliably handle around 500-550 FWHP? Looking to build for future goals, not just current power levels. Having the trans built to handle around 600, so if I do ever get to 500, should still be good. Having it built with equal length half shafts, LSD, cryo treated gears, double synchro second, ect. Just kinda having a hard time finding a clutch that will be able to hold it. I want all my parts to be able to hold more power before I start building the spare block, looking into a different turbo, E85, ect... Will try and get a picture of the turbo later today. I am pretty sure it is an EVO III 16G, not positive about it though.

Southbend ssx with b-series disk.

How would the clutch affect how the transmission shifts? Does it slow the shaft quicker or something?

Why do you want to rev to 9k? Because it's cool?

The turbo will be out of steam. You need to shift before power starts dropping. I would imagine 7500 is a good area on that turbo.

Moment of inertia and clutch release. Basically when you have a single disc and you shift at a high rpm, the disc maintains its inertia (most of the time) and can prevent a smooth shift, or even cause a full lockout (similar to clutch drag).

That's why twin/triple disc clutches work better. The maintain or increase surface area and clamp load, while keeping rotating mass and moment of inertia low, improves high rpm operation.

At least this has been my grasp of one of the aspects for high rpm shifting, there's more involved (single vs. double synchros etc.).

Good clutch for 550fwhp. Quarter Master gear drive twin disc. Good clutch for a 16g setup, ACT 2600 with street disc with an ACT flywheel WITH THE CORRECT STEP HEIGHT.

gfritz25 said:

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help. Any recommendations for a clutch that would be able to reliably handle around 500-550 FWHP? Looking to build for future goals, not just current power levels. Having the trans built to handle around 600, so if I do ever get to 500, should still be good. Having it built with equal length half shafts, LSD, cryo treated gears, double synchro second, ect. Just kinda having a hard time finding a clutch that will be able to hold it. I want all my parts to be able to hold more power before I start building the spare block, looking into a different turbo, E85, ect... Will try and get a picture of the turbo later today. I am pretty sure it is an EVO III 16G, not positive about it though.

Click to expand...

Higher hp fwd's are typically a bit easier on clutches compared to awd's, as with street tires, most of the time you're just spinning tires. My car makes that kind of power & a South Bend SS PP with TZ/FE held the power no problem. I removed the clutch after 35K & it looked in great shape & had lots of life left.

gfritz25 said:

Will try and get a picture of the turbo later today. I am pretty sure it is an EVO III 16G, not positive about it though.

Click to expand...

Just for reference, here is my EVO III 16g..

daren_p said:

Higher hp fwd's are typically a bit easier on clutches compared to awd's, as with street tires, most of the time you're just spinning tires. My car makes that kind of power & a South Bend SS PP with TZ/FE held the power no problem. I removed the clutch after 35K & it looked in great shape & had lots of life left.

Click to expand...

Daren, like this one?

gfritz25 said:

Daren, like this one?

Click to expand...

Yes, that would be the one. He has added some additional options since I bought that clutch, so I'd probably go with the TZ/B disk instead. I never had any issues but the TZ/FE doesn't stand up to heat as well, so you can glaze the clutch if you hot lap while drag racing, etc. The TZ/B isn't supposed to have this issue. While I just had the tranny off, I swapped clutches, went with the SS PP again, but stepped up to the B disk. Its the next level above the TZ/B, have only driven the car around the block a couple times so far, but it too still feels like a stock type clutch, with smooth engagement.

Sweet, I will look into it. Anyone selling any 2g AWD ELHS by chance? Looking to do ELHS in my F5M33 when I have it built, and my trans guy is having a hard time tracking down the parts. Need diff, LSD, axle shafts, and sonata cv shaft seals...

Confirmed the other day that the turbo is in fact an EVO III 16g, by the 47 on the compressor housing. Now it's just a matter of getting the transmission built to handle the power goals, and getting it on the road. Possibly go with a larger turbo later, when I decide how I want to build the spare block. Thanks again for the help guys, I appreciate it.