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420A CV boot repair options

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dgdsm

10+ Year Contributor
173
4
Aug 24, 2008
Tarzana, California
My whole front left wheel area has multiple problems. The biggest one is: I opened it up a couple of weeks ago, and found that the outer CV boot was split and broken, and most/all of the grease had come out. Right now, what I have in there is some CRC CV joint grease, and a makeshift/ghetto boot repair with vinyl wrap, gorilla tape, and zip ties. There aren’t the noise symptoms of a bad outer CV joint, so I probably caught it in time before a lot of contaminants got in there. I’m trying out different materials and adhesives to hold it together better, but at best I think I can just go with this setup for a couple of hundred miles.

It used to be that you could do a “Split Boot” CV boot repair, but it seems no one sells these kits nowadays. There is a universal Split Boot repair kit available from Walmarts, but I don’t know if this is the correct size for the Eclipse Spyder 2g wheels. The only compatible parts in the parts stores are the Unifit CV boot kits. A parts shop I spoke to recently says I’ll just have to eventually replace the axle, and it’s easier to do that than to only replace the CV boot.

Any ideas/ suggestions/advice? I’ve watched some YT videos on replacing an axle shaft, and I was practicing on a 2g front left axle in the JY today. On this one YT video he just folded out the hub to take out the old axle, but it seems like it might not be all that simple for a 2g dsm. I’m guessing that I’ll also need an alignment if I replace the axle. I’d rather just replace the boot if that’s possible.
 
Why not just replace the axle. They're cheap now 60 new. And a pretty easy job As well. Only a 6pack in difficultly.
 
I might be able to replace the axle. One of my concerns is cracking something when I separate the axle shaft from the transmission. There's also multiple nuts and bolts to take out in the suspension setup that I've never done anything with before. Some of what's there in the present wheels setup is frozen/ seized nuts and bolts.
 
The bolts will be the least of your worries. If the suspension has never been apart, you will have two tough steps when changing the front axle:
  • The OEM sway bar links tend to bind up. I usually have to cut the OEM ones off. Moog replacements are recommended.'
  • Separating the axle from the hub. I would spray everything in the area with PB Blaster a day or two before completing the axle swap.
If you have an advance Auto near you, PM me.
 
Actually, I took off the front left OEM sway bar links a few weeks ago and installed a new cheap Chinese one. That didn't work out, so I put the OEM one back in. It seems to be more flexible after taking it out and moving the ends around a bit and putting it back in so I'm not too concerned about that. I was thinking of Deeza as an upgrade.

I made some progress on this 2g in the JY today, but got stuck at the two lower arm ball joints. I don't see any way of getting a socket on there. Maybe by turning the wheel, or maybe needs a ratchet wrench. There's no info on this in my manuals but the ones I looked at seem to be 21mm.

There's no Advance Auto in socal. Autozone, O'Reillys, PepBoys and NAPA are the ones I go to.
 
What's wrong with a regular wrench? I also think it's a pain to pop ball joints. It's easier to loosen the control arm mount so you can swing the suspension out. I do this for 1g and 2g.
 
The more I thought about it why are you practicing on a junk car? Go to your car and fix it. This is an easy job. The only potentially hard parts are awd drivers intermediate.
 
This is an easy job, I replaced all my cv boots on my colt, all you need is the boot kits I bought mine from rock auto I liked the beck/arnley brand boot kits come with all the grease and clamps too.

All you need is, some paper towels, disposable gloves, a set of expanding pliers, a good punch set,a hammer, and a cv boot crimp tool, [sold at most auto parts stores] take your time when examining the old cv axles for damage and wear, if they look worn down too much, it might be more wise to buy a rebuilt after-market cv axle from an auto parts store.

I like the rebuilt cv axles, mainly because the new ones they sell are more likely to be made out of worse materials then the oem parts, while not always the case... it's better to be safe then sorry.

And a resounding + 2 on using the moog replacement suspension parts, they are miles ahead of the other after-market parts out there.
 
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What's wrong with a regular wrench? I also think it's a pain to pop ball joints. It's easier to loosen the control arm mount so you can swing the suspension out. I do this for 1g and 2g.

Nothing is wrong with a regular wrench. That's what I'd rather use. I'll see what I can do with swinging out the suspension without popping out the ball joints.
 
Update: After spending an exorbitant amount of time/ $$$ at a DIY rent-a bay place, it seems I did this axle replacement successfully. I replaced the old axle with a remanufactured axle I got off Ebay from a company in Detroit. I think it is originally from a 2.4L Galant but seems to be the correct part.

I've now taken care of some minor issues in the brake/suspension system, and what is left over from this are some general handling concerns. I've started a thread in Handling Tech on these. Since posting this thread the CV boot on the passenger side also split, and I have the this axle also from the same company. I'm guessing/assuming this side should go more smoothly.
 
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