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Wheel wont move freely after tightening rim after brembo upgrade.

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I finally got my brakes on. I can move the rotor by hand when the wheel is off. But when the wheel is on it binds on something and cant figure how to fix it. I noticed some uneven wear on the inner edge of the rotor where the pad is. Not sure why this is or if the brackets are uneven. All I can think of when the wheel is tightened the rotor is not straight or the caliper is not. The brakes and rotors came from the same car.

I posted pics of the shiny spots of where I think its uneven. I can also feel it. The rotors where cut already but not sure if that is my issue.
 

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I did. I don't see anything unusual with the wheel on. But in the pics I posted it seems like the pad or rotor is not straight after the wheel gets tightened. I'm not sure if that's possible. Also in the pics you can see shiny spots on the rotor where the pad sits. Not sure if they need worn in or what. But calipers pad and rotor came from the same car.
 
Are you certain the wheel isn't rubbing on the tops of your calipers?
 
With the wheel off, tighten 2 lug nuts down to spec (~80ft lbs) and see if it spins. If it does, you have a wheel interference problem. If it is still difficult to turn, try to see what is hanging. Little movements of the hub/rotor assembly should quickly let you see what it moving and what is not. Are your rotors hitting the caliper or bracket on the back side once they're bolted down?
 
Ill double check. I know the wheel isn't hitting anything but maybe tightening the lugs without the wheel maybe will let me see more. I think when the lugs are tight it cockeyed the rotor or maybe makes it not straight? I can just see that the black lip in the pic is hitting the pad before the rotor. Also maybe the rotors weren't cut flat?
 
I bet your caliper is not straight and you can't notice it till you bolt the rotor down. I had the same issue and it ended up being the caliper touching the rotor. To fix this I had to "walk" the caliper bolts, i.e. tighten the top a bit, then the bottom, then the top again, and so forth to insure the caliper was indeed straight. Also double check again you have all the spacers in the correct locations and the caliper and or knuckle ground down the correct amount that it needs to sit completely flat.
 
Hopefully its just the piston still applying pressure to the innner pad when its all tightened down. I always seem to have good luck depressing the caliper with a C-clamp to get the pads in the right position.
 
I tried walking the caliper in and still no luck. I took it off and this is what I found. The outer edge of the rotor is cutting the caliper
 

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Double check that what you grind down has enough clearance to lay flat. Because either the rotor or the caliper is not straight. I had the same issue to me. I'm pretty sure all i did was make sure the caliper was straight by walking it on as described as before. Maybe I did have to take it off once to grind some more material off, since once it was tight it wasn't sitting as flush as it needed to be. Check all of those. Don't give up may have gone through this process, and mine once the front was corrected has had no issues.
 
I took the caliper off and this is what I found. The guy I got them from must of grinded on accident the black ring the bolt goes into. No I believe when tight it cockeyed it. Now is there a fix for this. Is the only option having a machine shop machine it flat and use the right size washer? Or is there another trick?
 

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What car is the rotor made for? I didn't see it, might have missed it, may be the problem if the rotor height isn't correct for DSM/EVO's conversion. Quick fix would be to shave your spacers thinner to pull the caliper a little further away from the rotor & make better centered.
 
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