i just dropped off my parts at my local machine shop SK-speed in Lindenhurst ny, so i need an answer ASAP so i can tell him what to do for the head work

machinest says he has done the 4g63t motors before and that they wont hold 40psi of boost, that the head gaskets smush out of place,

question: what should i use to hold 40+psi on my motor not rotating parts or head parts, im talking details like head gasket, o ringing, head studs (over-sized), head specs, things like that,

so i need some advice from someone who made killer power with over 40 psi of boost

bottom end parts,
99 block,
99 stock crank,
howard i beam rods,
acl bearings,
wiseco hd 9.1;1
blueprinted and balanced,

head parts,
Supertech 96lb Dual Valvesprings Retainers,
GSC Power S3 Billet Camshafts,
Ferrea Competition Plus +1mm intake, exhaust,
Ferrea Exhaust Valve Guides
keepers,

turbo borgwarner s400
dual walbro 450
2150 injectors,
e85,
automatic,
dsmlink v3 full,
aem cam gears,
custom t6 manifold twinscroll,
dual 44mm tial waste gate

Isn't Boostin selling Red Demon inspired packages? Maybe looking into that will give you back better idea of what parts to use. I believe they sell a custom set of head studs like what they used.

Iam not an expert and have'nt seen 40psi of boost, But have researched several topics to ensure the best chances of holding high boost. A few options you may want to consider are.

Cosworth HeadStud kit or Arp Aged Stud Kit
4g63 Power Enterprises Headgasket
Also this service that Boostin Performs looks Ideal for holding high boost
http://shop.boostinperformance.com/product-p/bp-demonkit-headstud.htm

I'm going to be running a similar setup, just waiting on my engine to be back from the machine shop.

I'm going to be running ARP L19's and a HKS headgasket. They seem to have a good reputation. Probably aren't as strong as o-ringing it, but if something has to go, I'd rather it just be the headgasket.

Just be sure to run large clearances.

If he says it cant do it, I would give him some reading to do (examples of those that have.. theres a good one right here on the main page) and say you will come back in a few days.

At that point you ask if they think THEY can do an engine that can hande 40psi. It has nothing to do with them thinking the 4g63 itself can't. It clearly can when it is done right, and that's what you need to know -- do they firmly believe they can do it right and not just blame the block/head and an "I told you so".
If they say it cannot handle 40psi, you tell them to do it anyway via "X" methods, and it pops... shoddy workmanship will be blamed on "we told you it wasn't possible." That is a fact.

If they aren't confident they can do a good job, seek another shop.
Definitely get it tuned by somebody who knows their stuff first hand, though. Your window of error is exponentially smaller at those pressures than even half that.

dam you guys are quick to answer, awesome responsives, but you think i should get the head o ringed?

phizzalot said:

Iam not an expert and have'nt seen 40psi of boost, But have researched several topics to ensure the best chances of holding high boost. A few options you may want to consider are.

Cosworth HeadStud kit or Arp Aged Stud Kit
4g63 Power Enterprises Headgasket
Also this service that Boostin Performs looks Ideal for holding high boost
http://shop.boostinperformance.com/product-p/bp-demonkit-headstud.htm

Click to expand...

Thanks for the referral!
OP: Feel free to contact us on the parts needed to hold the higher boost pressures.

Your machinist you currently have is not one I would recommend then. I would strongly recommend picking up your stuff and sending it to Boostin. Period.

I have heard the "we have done 4g63's before" or the "I have rebuilt 100's of W4A33's" before and found out the hard way these guys are not as good as they profess to be. I am at a point now where I will NOT be using anyone to do trans or motor machining/builds that does not actually have extensive experience in the performance 4g63 field with proven results.

Boost pressure won't be your issue, it will be peak cylinder pressure which will spike if you run it too aggressive. FWIW, if he says he can't do it, you'll have a better time finding someone who can/has than you will trying to convince him that it is possible.

these guys are a very big shop and they have done mane 4 banger heads before so i have faith they will be able to do the head right. http://skspeed.com/ check them out

Boostin Performance said:

Thanks for the referral!
OP: Feel free to contact us on the parts needed to hold the higher boost pressures.

Click to expand...

are you talking about the 1/2 studs you guys sell?

I would not have them do anything. In your first post you said the machinist says that the head gasket will "smush" out of place. Uhhh, okay. That tells me that they are only used to using a crappy composite gasket because of their inability to create a nice smooth sealing surface that is needed to run a steel head gasket or copper with o-ring setup that can hold some high boost.

mountainbike91 said:

i just dropped off my parts at my local machine shop SK-speed in Lindenhurst ny, so i need an answer ASAP so i can tell him what to do for the head work

machinest says he has done the 4g63t motors before and that they wont hold 40psi of boost, that the head gaskets smush out of place,

question: what should i use to hold 40+psi on my motor not rotating parts or head parts, im talking details like head gasket, o ringing, head studs (over-sized), head specs, things like that,

so i need some advice from someone who made killer power with over 40 psi of boost

bottom end parts,
99 block,
99 stock crank,
howard i beam rods,
acl bearings,
wiseco hd 9.1;1
blueprinted and balanced,

head parts,
Supertech 96lb Dual Valvesprings Retainers,
GSC Power S3 Billet Camshafts,
Ferrea Competition Plus +1mm intake, exhaust,
Ferrea Exhaust Valve Guides
keepers,

turbo borgwarner s400
dual walbro 450
2150 injectors,
e85,
automatic,
dsmlink v3 full,
aem cam gears,
custom t6 manifold twinscroll,
dual 44mm tial waste gate

Click to expand...

Quick question, have you already purchased the Howard's rods or no? they are pretty heavy and I wouldn't be shocked if you peened the rod bearings over time at higher boost levels and rpm sustained on an auto. I had much better luck with aluminum rods keeping everything happy for much longer engine lifespan before servicing.

And 11mm CA625+ head studs with an OEM MLS head gasket can handle that boost, or with shouldered dowel inserts like I have made, or Boostin's 1/2" stud and insert upgrade with their head gasket will do the job.

GRAVEDIGGER said:

I would not have them do anything. In your first post you said the machinist says that the head gasket will "smush" out of place. Uhhh, okay. That tells me that they are only used to using a crappy composite gasket because of their inability to create a nice smooth sealing surface that is needed to run a steel head gasket or copper with o-ring setup that can hold some high boost.

Click to expand...

Hey now...plenty of power can and has been made on a composite...

On a side note if you plan on maxing that turbo out you might want to look at a higher base pressure or mechanical fuel pump or in-line fuel pump(s) to handle line pressures above 90psi. you should be able to do decent numbers before maxing out the 2200's but you will run out of injector at 43-45 base on e85 in the mid 40's psi boost realistically.

If you want to stay "local", look up TBR Machine in Syracuse. They have built mine and many other 4G63 motors in the area that make some big power. Your machine shop doesn't have a clue. I run 40+ psi of boost on my car, look in my profile to see what I have. My setup certainly isn't the be-all-end-all, but it's a good off-the-shelf build to make power. If your car was going to be drag-only, I would consider a half-fill as well.

EDIT: Never mind, you're in the NYC area....yuck. You're better off sending it to Boostin'.

Just my personal opinion, i wouldn't mess with any "local" guys. I've been burned trying to support supposedly well known local shops. I've been waiting 2 months for parts that were quoted a 2-3 day turn around right now from a local guy recommended by this site.

Skip the trouble and send it to a large, well know, national shop. Someone like boostin.

I've had the best luck with new oem head castings, l19's, and the felpro Mls gasket. I run around 30 psi daily, and 40-42 when I turn it up.

As said already, find another machine shop.

Ive done 38psi from an hx40 and 37psi on a 6466 on standard ARP head studs, and a felpro permatorque MLS head gasket. I'll be using L19's this time around and I'll pick up another felpro permatorque since i had good results with it, never had a head gasket issue as long as the surfaces are flat.

As for bottom end, I'm leaning tword sending it to boostin myself for the stage 3 short block, and hve them install the front case/oil pump. I'll do the rest.

Wow. It sounds so difficult. I have built four engines this year so far. And all but one has been over 40psi so far. And I use local machinists. It just takes finding the right guys, getting on the same page and tell them What you need and expect. If you let them run the show you will get burned. Of course it was hard telling someone how to do their job, but 12 years later and these guys knock it out of the park every time. Just have to tell them how it is.

up to 42psi here. DIY oringed block with Isky tool and a felpro composite HG. L19s. Stock head with Kiggly springs and big kelfords.

Sounds to me like you're using a machine shop that cannot build heads to seal over 40psi of boost pressure in the combustion chamber. I'd find a new machine shop that knows what they're talking about.

all the parts listed i currently own, there are some details that i still need and some things im currently doing to the car for the set up.

twicks69 said:

Quick question, have you already purchased the Howard's rods or no? they are pretty heavy and I wouldn't be shocked if you peened the rod bearings over time at higher boost levels and rpm sustained on an auto. I had much better luck with aluminum rods keeping everything happy for much longer engine lifespan before servicing.

And 11mm CA625+ head studs with an OEM MLS head gasket can handle that boost, or with shouldered dowel inserts like I have made, or Boostin's 1/2" stud and insert upgrade with their head gasket will do the job.

Click to expand...

yea im going with the 1/2 studs with gasket. and now i havent gotten the bottom end machined yet so i can still go with aluminum rod, which was a though to do but im also going to daily the car so i might keep the steel howard rods bc i know with the power im going to be pushing i dont want to daily an aluminum rod. and no not boosting from every light and stop sign, once you spend 15k on a car like this you will baby the shit out of it, still tossed up.

familyMAN said:

up to 42psi here. DIY oringed block with Isky tool and a felpro composite HG. L19s. Stock head with Kiggly springs and big kelfords.

Click to expand...

dam nice job

twicks69 said:

Quick question, have you already purchased the Howard's rods or no? they are pretty heavy and I wouldn't be shocked if you peened the rod bearings over time at higher boost levels and rpm sustained on an auto. I had much better luck with aluminum rods keeping everything happy for much longer engine lifespan before servicing.

And 11mm CA625+ head studs with an OEM MLS head gasket can handle that boost, or with shouldered dowel inserts like I have made, or Boostin's 1/2" stud and insert upgrade with their head gasket will do the job.

Click to expand...

Are you selling the dowel inserts? I'm getting some head mushrooming with L19's.