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High idle

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b00zt3d spyd3r

Proven Member
348
149
Feb 25, 2016
Lawton, Oklahoma
Today I noticed my car wasn't running quite right. I looked under the hood and noticed my j pipe was loose...again... Tightened them up and went to Walmart to get coolant was fine. Put coolant in and now it is idling high. Idk if that has anything to do with it but I've looked everywhere for boost/vacuum leaks made sure everything was tight and in place. Iac is good car idled even higher with it unplugged. Idk what else to try. HELP!!
 
Today I noticed my car wasn't running quite right. I looked under the hood and noticed my j pipe was loose...again... Tightened them up and went to Walmart to get coolant was fine. Put coolant in and now it is idling high. Idk if that has anything to do with it but I've looked everywhere for boost/vacuum leaks made sure everything was tight and in place. Iac is good car idled even higher with it unplugged. Idk what else to try. HELP!!

Try unplugging the Idle Air Control, and plugging it back in, also try unhooking the battery for 30 sec.
 
Bleed the coolant of air. You may have a weird air pocket the ECU is compensating for.

Do 2gs have faiv?
 
To bleed air from the coolant, open the coolant cap and set it aside on a COLD engine. Run the motor to operating temp and wait for coolant to bubble out and reinstall the cap. Normally I do this, then drive around and try again after the car is cool. You will see air like a gulp in the coolant.
 
have you checked your throttle body, biss screw, or bov for leaks? I know you said you did a test but the biss is a good place for air to enter.

My bov spring crapped out and caused a idle issue.
 
I know you said you looked for boost/vacuum leaks but did you actually perform a boost leak test? Just want to make sure. If your J-pipe was loose, I would start looking there for leaks. I have never had an air pocket in the coolant cause a high idle, idling at 1600 is high for an ECU to compensate to.
 
It was a stretch however it's the only part of the coolant system that plays into efi. Also wouldn't be bad to do if he was running air into the system just for the coolant to do the best possible job.

If he did a blt then the jpipe isn't an issue, if not, great place to start.
 
No i didn't actually do a blt. I don't have anything to test. I just looked at all my ic piping and vacuum lines made sure they were all tight and in place. Is my car okay to drive till I find out the high idle reason?
 
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Watch this, make a BLTester. Check for leaks that way. Carb cleaner and soap/water won't do much, The system has to be under pressure.

I'm going to say you need to burp the coolant more, sounds like the FIAV might not be seeing coolant to close down when it warms up.
 
Build a boost leak tester and do it right. If you don't want to do the proper tests to trouble shoot then don't ask why your car is running weird. Here is a checklist to eliminate concern with your recent mishap:
1: Build a boost leak tester
2: Do a boost leak test
3: Burp your coolant (Will eliminate any coolant concern)
4: Report back after all is done
 
Build a boost leak tester and do it right. If you don't want to do the proper tests to trouble shoot then don't ask why your car is running weird. Here is a checklist to eliminate concern with your recent mishap:
1: Build a boost leak tester
2: Do a boost leak test
3: Burp your coolant (Will eliminate any coolant concern)
4: Report back after all is done
I'm sorry I don't have a whole lot of knowledge on this situation just trying to get some help. Will be making a blt sometime this week and will get back with yall
 
This what it's lookin like. Not over heating. Just revs high at idle sits steady no surge. All I keep hearing is iac or fiav. I'm ready to but the part just trying to find out for sure which one it'll be
 

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Don't buy anything until you do the tests we mentioned and burp the coolant properly.

If you suspect the iac (I don't) then test the coils with a multimeter. Here's a video on that.

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The FIAV isn't cheap, it requires a whole new TB iirc. Many just delete it, if they're in a warmer climate, with no problems.

Don't just throw parts at it, that's a excellent way to get frusterated and waste money, all while learning nothing.
 
Don't buy anything until you do the tests we mentioned and burp the coolant properly.

If you suspect the iac (I don't) then test the coils with a multimeter. Here's a video on that.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The FIAV isn't cheap, it requires a whole new TB iirc. Many just delete it, if they're in a warmer climate, with no problems.

Don't just throw parts at it, that's a excellent way to get frusterated and waste money, all while learning nothing.
Like with a fiav block off plate? I'm in Oklahoma so it's pretty warm till winter time
 
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