I am in the process of creating a 2G ECU to 1G jumper harness using the male connector from a dead 1G ECU and the pigtails from a 2G ECU harness.

What type of wire connectors would be best to use to connect the pigtail wires to the 1G ECU piece pictured below?

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I would say solder the wires on and cover with shrink wrap. That would be the best connection

1990dsmkid said:

I would say solder the wires on and cover with shrink wrap. That would be the best connection

Click to expand...

Exactly.

I'd start with an unbroken connector to eliminate the chance that that the car harness could pull out.
Cut the pins about 1/2" long and solder the 2G pigtails to it. Be careful not to overheat a pin while soldering or it will get loose in the connector.

I accidentally dropped it while desoldering the board. I planned to rig something to hold the connector in place, but I might start over with another board.

Presoldering, what is the proper way to to attach the wire to the prong? Would I strip the wire and wrap it around the prong, then solder it?

Tin your wire first then it should attach right to the pin since it already has solder on it. Shouldn't require too much heat to blend them. MTC

Apply solder to the prong with heat and solder to the wire with heat separately (called tinning). Then attach both together with heat. You have soldwr on pins already so you may be good there. Mind the temp, as steve says. Once you heat up a prong too much, the plastic on the connector melts and you will have a loose pin that can push out on attachment, depending on how bad it has melted.

However you want a strong mechanical bond so it has to be adhered well..

I bought some heat shrink tubing that recommends stripping the wire, soldering the connection, and then sliding the tubing up and applying heat. How much insulation should I strip from the wire? How much of the connector prong should I cover? Is it alright for the heat shrink tube to shrinking over the existing wire insulation?

Just strip enough to make your connections, without relying completely on the solder. Yes the heat shrink being over the insulation is what you want, usually 1/4-1/2" of overlap. The allows a good seal and protects the wire from other shorts and corrosion.

Out of curiosity, why are you doing a 1g-2g jumper?

Wanted a flashable ECU without having to modify the factory harness.

It's going in my 90 AWD that I'm prepping to run autocross and HPDE this season.

Ah so you're talking about the later h8 (blackbox) ecu?

If so, fourgsixthree33 (spooligan) has a new thread going covering some nice info for these ecu swaps. I'm personally doing an evo 8 ecu currently, same thing as you essentialy, i believe.

Here is the thread

Yeah I've got a flashable black box from a 98 GS-T. I would have gone Evo 8, even have the Evo 8 MAS, but the ECUs are so much more expensive, I decided against it.

mac 108 said:

I am in the process of creating a 2G ECU to 1G jumper harness using the male connector from a dead 1G ECU and the pigtails from a 2G ECU harness.

What type of wire connectors would be best to use to connect the pigtail wires to the 1G ECU piece pictured below?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Any updates in how it go ? im also looking in to this ....

I got it going after a lot of trial and error. Now I am in the process of installing a WBO2 so I can get it properly tuned.


If you have any questions, send me a PM.