I know that there are a few brands out there. Do you all have any suggestions as to which ones to go with?

Do they all require welding?

I'd prefer a setup that doesn't require welding if possible.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Jnz would be my choice. http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_30_698&products_id=117

Dsmkauai said:

Jnz would be my choice. http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_30_698&products_id=117

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I am good with that.....do I have to weld anything though?

I can't think of a single clutch pedal assembly rebuild "kit" that requires welding. Understand that the reason for welding the assembly is to prevent needing another rebuild in the future. Basically, it creates a rigid structure at the point that was susceptible to wear. What are those parts? See: Clutch pedal lever worn

The rebuild kits replace the components that wear out. Welding is completely up to you and not even remotely necessary once the worn components are replaced.

19Eclipse90 said:

I can't think of a single clutch pedal assembly rebuild "kit" that requires welding. Understand that the reason for welding the assembly is to prevent needing another rebuild in the future. Basically, it creates a rigid structure at the point that was susceptible to wear.

The rebuild kits replace the components that wear out. Welding is completely up to you and not even remotely necessary once the worn components are replaced.

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Awesome and very clear.

One last thing....I see a link for Bronze bushings.

Is this something that I am better off with or not?

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3149

I don't mind spending the extra money if it is helpful.

Thanks again.

The bronze bushing, over time, has come to what it is because the oem bushing is plastic, and with a 2600 or similar clutch, the load on that bushing ruins it. The first iteration of bushing upgrades was brass, which worked but also seemed to wear out due to the softness of the metal. Then came along the bronze's, which seem to hold up the best so far.

You won't really know what you need until you pull your assembly out, but its nice to get the entire kit w/ the bronze bushing and know you did everything you possibly could without second guessing / short changing yourself later.

Then after its assembled give a few coats of your favorite black paint and it comes out pretty sexy:




Oh, and new pedal pads on the clutch and brake too (same part for both):

Thanks for your thoughts on the matter!

Back from the grave one year later. I have been told that you MUST weld the threads, lockwasher, and nut together or you will be pulling the pedal soon. I got the JNZ tuning kit and welded the threads and nuts together which resulted in an epic fail when the weld from the threads to the washer broke.

Since then I am reading that you MUST universally weld all of these items together.

Is this not correct?

Thanks

Looks like the weld is a must, I had mine welded but never had it break.. The only other option that I can think of, is by placing another nut to act as a locking nut I doubt that will be as permanent as a proper weld, but hey it may do the trick. You may have to have a portable welder come to your house and give it a good weld .....

I have been told that you MUST weld the threads, lockwasher, and nut together or you will be pulling the pedal soon.

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This. If you take a close look at the various components that make up the clutch pedal mechanism, EVEN WHEN THEY ARE BRAND NEW, you'll see that the design itself is inherently flawed and will inevitably develop play over time to the point of failure. The only way to avoid this is to weld the relevant components together.

Thanks guys,

So there are several parts that may or may not need to be welded together:

Threads, Flat Washer, Lock Washer, Nut, Black Spring Washer, Bronze Bushing, and of course the bracket.

Do each of these parts get welded together or do any get skipped?

I ask because I spoke with JNZ tuning and they were EXTREMELY adamant that one or all of these parts get welded and that there was definitely a right and wrong way of doing this. I can't get a hold of the guy who told this to me there, but he insisted that there are actually debates about this and that there is definitely a right and wrong way to do this.

There are some images rolling around here and elsewhere on the internet, but they are vague and this is the 3rd time that I am doing this job for one reason or another.

I think that bringing the pedal to a shop would be an EXCELLENT idea. I am cheap like lots of folks here, but this little incident has once again forced to buy another kit from JNZ after needing to cut the nut and threads off after my failed weld. The only issue is that this area isn't known for skilled welders, so I end up doing everything myself and taking chances. Maybe I can ship it somewhere to have it welded?

The cage around that area makes it hard. I saw someone suggesting that the area around the cage be cut out so that you can get right in there, but that idea got shot down.

I know what you mean about the design as well. Every time I have the misfortune of buying another kit, the pedal and bracket are either slightly too small or too big thereby needing to be forced in or having you wonder if the small amount of play in NEW parts is acceptable.

Well then .... 4gfun, looks another kit down the tubes, sounds from yelling no matter new or not maybe having the pedal assembly welded is at this point the " best " option. Hope the next kit goes better for ya ... and just glad all mine have been pretty good

Thanks OG. Anyone have answers to my other question about exactly *what* gets welded?

As a recap there is:

Threads, Flat Washer, Lock Washer, Nut, Black Spring Washer, Bronze Bushing, and of course the bracket.

pretty sure Josh (JNZ) can weld it, when he used to sell rebuilt complete assemblies, they were done in-house

tmoney20g said:

pretty sure Josh (JNZ) can weld it, when he used to sell rebuild complete assemblies, they were done in-house

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I have not been able to get a hold of Josh for some time now. I thought I had that conversation with him, but I'll check again. Thanks.

my buddy welded mine, we just made sure it was hot and piled it on. so far so good.

What parts did he weld exactly? I am sure that intricacies are hard to remember by now. I welded the nut, threads, washer, lock washer.

The spring washer and the bronze bushing are on the other side, so I don't think they count.

yea, assembled it as if i wasn't going to weld it(but without the lock-washer) , so all the parts as they should have been (per Josh), then welded it. mainly the nut to the rod, but then we expanded the weld down so all that we already did, also encompassed all around the 'S'-rod



and after welding/painting:

Great pics! I did pretty much the same thing. For some reason, the threads were free of the nut though. I either didn't weld them down to the nut correctly or something external was wrong. The pedal had tons of resistance when I pressed it after the pedal rebuild, but I have strong legs and cranked harder. I know the weld is ugly, but I was hoping it was functional!

I have a jnz kit in my car. Its awesome, i had a shop do it bc i didnt feel like messing with it. They told me it took em 7+ hrs. And refused to ever do it again. Oh well, glad it wasnt me!!

Freddyk79 said:

I have a jnz kit in my car. Its awesome, i had a shop do it bc i didnt feel like messing with it. They told me it took em 7+ hrs. And refused to ever do it again. Oh well, glad it wasnt me!!

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! I wish I had that experience!

Send it to me, I'll clean it up and weld it right.

I'm sorry that I didn't see the post earlier (it's been a crazy year).

A couple of notes (I'll try to keep it short an sweet as I just arrived back from SEMA late last night, and am just finishing catching up on orders @ 12:25 AM the following day):

--The pedal can be rebuilt without welding anything. Just realize that the joint between the clutch pedal and master cylinder lever round out on stock clutches over time--the problem just isn't evident until you put a clutch with a heavier pedal pressure requires. If you plan on keeping the car and don't weld it, you'll probably be doing it again at some time.

--The bronze (we use bronze for the wear properties--we could make them out of brass as some other companies do and produce them at a much cheaper cost) bushing is *NOT* necessary unless you want to weld the pedal. Yes, it will help a bit with deflection, but not really enough to make it worthwhile. The main reason the bronze bushing is available is to withstand the heat process of welding the pedal assembly.

--You *can* weld the clutch pedal without replacing any of your old parts. The issue with this is that it's very tricky to get it centered correctly once it is rounded at the joint, and if you don't get it correct the first time, not only do you have to pull the whole assembly again and start over (with buying all the parts at this point) but they're a real pain to cut apart once welded.

--The weld is the most important part, not WHAT you weld. If you lay a proper bead with good penetration just from the master cylinder lever to the nut, you would have to tear the threads out in order for it to slip. Welding from the master cylinder lever to the nut, and the nut to the threads is just extra insurance. Having a good weld is the most important part.

I hope this helps clear up the debate, but if anyone has additional comments or questions, please post them up.

On a side note, we again are able to weld the pedal assemblies on an exchange basis (as we have one of our building's electrical feed upgraded enough--although not the GVR4 units, as the master cylinder lever is discontinued now--we purchased an used the last ones Mitsubishi had about 6-8 months ago) but we haven't re-enabled it on the website. Please send us an email if you are in need of this.

Josh
JNZ Tuning
www.jnztuning.com