Use the search feature, there are literally a billion threads on oil discussions. So much so that it's silly, and the end result is everybody runs every kind of oil out there and all you have to do is read and trust someones singular opinion, or perform statistical analysis and determine which is the most popular one and follow the herd.

Ok thanks.

I've used every possible synthetic oil there is... Use whatever you want, if you change it frequently it won't matter.

After tons and tons of oil research the best bang for the buck is shell rotella t6 full synthetic. It has around 1250ppm of zddp which is what you want in good oil(mobile 1 950ppm). You will not find a better oil unless you buy a racing only oil(brad penn, Valvoline zr1?, amsoil's racing oil not the regular stuff, redline, ect all around 1400ppm zddp). I always though that changing your oil frequently was best and it really is the best route. But ive seen a lot of oil analysis's done by blackstone and the lab said the oil was still good to run more miles(but I always read about good synthetic oils ^above).

As far as dino vs synthetic, synthetic owns. There is a big difference between viscosity and flow rate. Synthetics have a better flow rate meaning better circulation and better lubrication, plus they fair better if you don't drive the car often enough to need to change within 3 months.
***note*** because of the better flow rate of synthetic's a motor with dried out seals can start to leak if switched from dino to synthetic because the oil flows better not because synthetic damages seals or cleans out motors.
Plus most synthetics have a higher flash point meaning they are less likely to coke in the turbo leading to early turbo failure.

IMHO I would switch to a synthetic blend to get the help of synthetics but a slightly reduced flow rate incase your seals are old, most of the high mileage oils are synthetic blend. 4 of my cars I change oil around 3500miles and run t6 year round, my daily drive has old seals and I run a synthetic blend because it seeps a little oil.

So I should start using synthetic? Is that good to go from standard to synthetic?

Like I said above I would recommend a synthetic blend because there's a chance that the seals are old,dried,stiff and a full synthetic could lead to slight leakage. You can run a full synthetic and if the seals leak a little you could then switch to a synthetic blend. The last 2 dsm's and my jeep I bought them and switched to synthetic and didn't have any problems with and seals leaking. But like I said my daily driver seeps more oil if I run a full synthetic so its your choice.

Going from dino to synthetic isn't going to cause any problems.

With Schaffer's they have shown that switching can actually help the motor by cleaning out carbon deposits and gunk / old oil sludge. I run Schaeffers in all my cars wether I buy them new or used rebuild or not ... Then use their oil analysis program that can show a number of things besides telling me about how many I could go between oil changes but I stick to around 3500 miles on the oil and filters every 1750 miles ..( it does very with different motors and the motors use) never had any issues .. Although Schaeffers is on the expensive side but worth it in my view as it save on costs of replacing or machining parts.....

Forgot about Schaeffer good oil. The zddp content is the major lubricating component and I just don't think any of the expensive oils have enought to justify the extra cost vs t6. Plus t6 is available anywhere. Mobile 1 zddp 950ish ppm, t6 1250ish ppm, the good high end oils 1400-1500max ppm. Not worth the hassle for Schaeffer for 150ppm inho. Spending extra on high end oils isn't a bad thing, for me it's about budget and ease of purchase. I won't bash royal purple but every test I read didn't favor rp at all.