have you tried replacing the thermostat?

did you change the water pump when you did the head gasket?

dustyboner said:

have you tried replacing the thermostat?

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No on that but isn't it that if the thermostat opened the radiator hose is hot and I don't know how it works if it's closed . Or it might stay open all the time ?

it may not be opening all the way

did you change the water pump when you did the head gasket?

Flush out the whole coolent system and replace the thermostat its cheap

No still have the same water pump seems good No coolant leaking out the key hole no wear . I'll most likely change out the thermostat tomorrow and figure out why the tach just decided to stop working

it either has a small leak where it sucks air into the system, or it needs to be"burped".

I'm betting it's your thermostat sticking a little bit. Replace that and all should be good.

If the upper radiator hose is hot it is because the thermostat is stuck closed. The upper hose should be the cold coolant waiting for the thermostat to open to cool down the engine.

Don't tell me you replaced the headgasket just because the car was running hot.....

chrysler kid said:

If the upper radiator hose is hot it is because the thermostat is stuck closed. The upper hose should be the cold coolant waiting for the thermostat to open to cool down the engine.

Don't tell me you replaced the headgasket just because the car was running hot.....

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The upper radiator hose should always be hot, unless the thermostat is closed. You're thinking of the DSM cooling system in reverse. There's never cold coolant flowing to the thermostat in either direction.

Hot coolant leaves the head entering the thermostat housing. If the thermostat is open, it exits the thermostat housing through the open thermostat and flows to the top of the radiator, where it's cooled and drawn back into the block by the water pump via the water pipe...Thereby making the upper radiator hose really hot.

However, if the thermostat is closed, coolant is not allowed to flow to the radiator, resulting in a not so hot upper radiator hose. That being said, you probably won't be able to tell a drastic difference between the two states by feeling the upper radiator hose with your hand. Anyone who's ever touched one knows it's hot as hell all the time, regardless of thermostat position.

OP, change the thermostat, and pressure check the system.

+1 on changing the thermostat and flushing the system

Mine was ding the same thing yesterday, I went to AutoZone bought a thermostat and it fixed it right up. So I'd recommend to do that, it's cheap and easy to do.

Does the vehicle over heat at idle? While driving? Check if it's only in idle or all the time. To eliminate weak pump and restriction

gst-turbo said:

Flush out the whole coolent system and replace the thermostat its cheap

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I replaced it and flushed but it still is overheating

simplejoe said:

I'm betting it's your thermostat sticking a little bit. Replace that and all should be good.

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I replaced it and it's still overheating ?????

Have you monitored the coolant temp with a scan tool/logger or is the gauge just showing it overheating?

Boost-Junkie said:

Does the vehicle over heat at idle? While driving? Check if it's only in idle or all the time. To eliminate weak pump and restriction

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It only overheats when I drive it , when it's at idle it's fine

How long ago did you do the head gasket and may I ask why it was replaced. If your fine at idle and overheating while driving you need to replace the water pump before further diagnosing. Bad pump can circulate enough coolant under throttle but at idle it's just enough flow to not overheat

^^ cannot circulate enough under throttle

GST with PSI said:

The upper radiator hose should always be hot, unless the thermostat is closed. You're thinking of the DSM cooling system in reverse. the time, regardless of thermostat position.

OP, change the thermostat, and pressure check the system.

Click to expand...

Oops. Yeahhhh I'm getting every cooling system backwards. Heat rises, as the coolant goes from top to bottom the lower radiator naturally has the colder fluid than the top

fastfred said:

Have you monitored the coolant temp with a scan tool/logger or is the gauge just showing it overheating?

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I WAS driving it around the block to get it to start to overheat so I can check with ecm but it turned off while I was shifting into 2nd and now it won't start

It was replaced about a month ago . I had bought from some guy and it wasn't starting so pulled the motor apart and turned out the flywheel bolts were loose was putting it back together and put a mls gasket .

Boost-Junkie said:

How long ago did you do the head gasket and may I ask why it was replaced. If your fine at idle and overheating while driving you need to replace the water pump before further diagnosing. Bad pump can circulate enough coolant under throttle but at idle it's just enough flow to not overheat

Click to expand...

So now it's a no start. Whenever you verify if fuel and spark post results

I have a 95 fwd turbo that kept over heating and after taking out the thermostat and flushing the system didnt help, it turned out to be the catalytic converter. the honey comb inside broke free turned sideways and partially blocked the hole. but for me the damage was done and i lost compression in one cylinder. I remembered hearing a rattle under the car that went away and now i know why.

Do you have a FMIC? What fans do you have on there?

What's the condition of the radiator?

Check and make sure all your connections are snug. Maybe something came loose.

We're you in high RPM when shifting into 2nd or just normal shift?