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Direct bolt on turbo

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khmersun

Probationary Member
21
1
Mar 7, 2016
Memphis, Tennessee
i just bought a 1998 mits gts spyder...I do plan on modding it more but right now I just want to get it running. The factory turbo is shoot up and down and left and right play. Im having a hard time finding a t25 to bolt on to. Is there any turbo I can get fairly cheap to just get the car mobile again that will be a direct bolt on.
 
Here is a 14b for 100$ it says it's good to go
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/parting-out-my-1990-talon-tsi-awd.501431/#post-153574885

Home brew install kit
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/14b-install-on-a-2g-with-a-homebrew-install-kit.92558/

Or you can buy a kit from here or piece it together with what you need.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

Didn't have anything else to do so googled some things for you.:thumb:

P.S. Anything you want to know type into google and type DSM after it, will Pritty much give you anything info you need.
 
thanx yea I don't want to do any modding right now until I eliminate the turbo as a problem ive called myself searching but getting all kind of different answers. I just want the car running for cheap than I can dump some money into fmic exhaust programmer injectors etc etc
 
Well you don't want to start modding until all maintenance is done first. Get it running right and then worry about go fast parts. Side mount IC is good for now, 14b at wastegate pressure 7-10psi will be just fine. 14b can net kinda close to 300 (less then that) with a good tune. Side mount will be ok unless it's back to back pulls in 95*+ weather. Spend $$$ wisely, as research will get you what you want for reasonable price.

What I sent is just about as cheep as you gana get if the turbo is the issue. But again maintenance maintenance maintenance. Timing belt and all components, compression check if that's good, then turn the boost up throw some 650 in their get link and go for gold :thumb:

Edit: when reading you will see people's names come up more and more, also see wiseman and moderators, those are what you want to listen to for the most part. Not saying others advice isn't good but a lot of miss matched is out their.
 
right! yea that's was the plan to just bolt up the turbo and drive for literally 2 of days and then fix any other issues and then start changing everything up I just don't want to dump play money in it when I might need other issues fixed first
 
right! yea that's was the plan to just bolt up the turbo and drive for literally 2 of days and then fix any other issues and then start changing everything up I just don't want to dump play money in it when I might need other issues fixed first
On the other hand, there's no point in buying a different turbo when you're just going to upgrade it anyways. If you want a 350-400 hp car just get a 16g and be done with the turbo aspect. Done. No extra money spent in the long run. The standard SMIC will be fine for stock boost levels.
 
If he's looking for a Direct Bolt-on for a 2G, then I vote the Big T28. You can find them often and for the looking like a stock turbo is well capable of 350hp with supporting mods. The swap is as simple as can be and NO having to switch to a 14b setup.
Here's one for sale by our resident turbo expert.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rebuilt-garrett-tb2578-big-t28-dsm-turbo.500659/
Remember not to go cheap to keep it on the streets!!!!
 
303_2g has it right. If the OP does indeed want a "direct bolt-on", that should be interpreted as bolting in the turbo with no other modifications. The T-28 is an underestimated performer as it's stock-frame appearance is misleading. Extremepsi is having a great sale on these at the moment. The MHI turbos will need an install kit to adapt it to a 2g. While not difficult, MHI turbos are not a " direct bolt-on". With the T-28, you will just need some new gaskets, some crush washers, and look into an SS oil feed line if it is within your budget. They typically also come with the correct restrictor as well.
 
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this turbo will not be the final turbo I just need to get the car running properly before I can sink some real loot into...I will build the internals eventually but I just want to see if this car is even functional I bought it on the fly it was cheap...800 cheap with 90k original miles. but back to subject at hand so t28 and ss oil lines and im good to drive for a day or two without having to go ahead and do internal mods and thank you everyone for replies and feedback and forgive me for noob questions
 
this turbo will not be the final turbo I just need to get the car running properly before I can sink some real loot into...I will build the internals eventually but I just want to see if this car is even functional I bought it on the fly it was cheap...800 cheap with 90k original miles. but back to subject at hand so t28 and ss oil lines and im good to drive for a day or two without having to go ahead and do internal mods and thank you everyone for replies and feedback and forgive me for noob questions
You'll be fine as long as you stay below.... I'd say 15psi which I believe is what the internal wastegate spring on those is set anyway. Just don't even think about boost control till you do all the necessary maintainece and a boost leak test, that's the #1 rule here. And as for not being the "final" turbo, most people are pleasantly surprised by the driveability and power of the T28 (which by the way a "big" t28 is basically just a max efficient T25 ported by Garrett, there is no small t28's in a DSM frame)
Good luck and happy boosting!!!
 
You can easily swap out the T-25 wastegate/actuator to the T-28 if your concerned about boost control. It is simply two bolts and a c-clip.
 
thank you everyone who gave me options I ended up finding a stock t25 for free with a small amount of shaft play I got some oil leaks and smoke coming from the exhaust that Im going to sort out here in the next few weeks but shes running fine so far
 
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