Bleeding these clutch systems can be a B*TCH! You'll defiantly need two people to do it. Do a search for how to bleed the clutch system, theres tones of articles!

I've been around these cars for several years and usually don't have any trouble bleeding, most things listed on here I've tried.

I've been able to do it before, no problem on a 97 RS. I know it's a different trans but it should be the same process. Just have someone help you from inside the car, open the bleeder valve just enough for fluid to come out. Have then push the pedal down, then while it's still pushed down, tighten the valve. Bring the pedal up, loosen the valve and repeat. It'll get better and better slowly. Also make sure to add more fluid frequently cuz if you pump it dry you have to start all over again . Hope this helps

Yea that doesn't work either that's obviously the first thing we tried.

Have you checked the master cylinder to see if it's still good? Brake fluid eats up the rubber seals in em over time. It might not be making any pressure.

True, its not leaking anywhere however that doesn't mean it's good ... Guy says clutch pedal was good when he parked it 6 years ago.

Ya I'd try that I had one go bad on my 97 RS and it took me a while to figure out why tf it wouldn't bleed.

Did you do steps 12-14 here: http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_bleed_a_hydraulic_clutch_info.html

Hmm I did not try that, will have to try it...However all of these methods imply there is a healthy amount of pressure inside the system such as when you crack the bleeder loose fluid shoots out, that doesn't happen here, there's no fluid coming out under pressure and the pedal just sticks on the floor.

Id

breaksdaily said:

Hmm I did not try that, will have to try it...However all of these methods imply there is a healthy amount of pressure inside the system such as when you crack the bleeder loose fluid shoots out, that doesn't happen here, there's no fluid coming out under pressure and the pedal just sticks on the floor.

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I'd bet my car on the fact that you have a bad master cylinder bud.

Hey very nice find. I would think the master cylinder maybe holding you up here. There's really no other reason why the pedal would stick to the floor. Slave, Master, or air in system. Maybe a bad pedal assembly but doubtful.

What are the chances though that the slave and master failed..highly unlikely

Honestly a master cylinder shouldn't be too expensive. Like $22 I think but no more than $40. It might've been the master cylinder all along, but like I said brake fluid eats up the rubber seals in em, so it could've done it on both.

I am going to say that the one thing I find most helpful when bleeding the clutch system is to force the slave into its cylinder all the way while the pedal is to the floor before closing the bleed valve. When you press the pedal to bleed, you could still have air up in behind the piston which will not go into the opening for the bleed. This has helped numerous times for getting a good bleed on a clutch system.

The master and slave are very simple devices with very few failure points. I think one or both of your master cylinder internal seals are bad (piston seals, or return valve seal), allowing fluid to go back into the reservoir instead of pressurizing the slave. OEM rebuild kits are $80 and you can do it in 30 minutes. Aftermarket rebuilt units and rebuild kits are half the price of OEM, and the rubber seals usually last accordingly (I've had 3 Autozone master cylinders last under a year in two different cars).

Here are some oversimplified, not-to-scale mspaint quickies:
Master cylinder:
Turn the rod too far in and you block off the fluid return path to the reservoir (in a DSM its a check valve inside the piston, IIRC), thus preventing the clutch from engaging fully.
Turn the rod too far out and you just make excessive gap between the rod and the piston, thus wasting pedal travel and preventing full disengagement.

If the external seal(s) were leaking, you'd get pedal feedback and partial clutch movement, but fluid running down the firewall or dripping from the outside rod.


Slave cylinder:
Really the only way it can fail is a leaky piston seal, evidenced by fluid leaking out and partial/no clutch disengagement.

I've had around 10 dsms and never have had a clutch master fail...more diagnosis tomorrow.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture. Sitting for 6 years is definitely enough time for the brake fluid to become contaminated and corrosive.

Replace fluid,master,slave and rubber line .... should be no problem.

THEN FOR GODS SAKE LEAVE IT BE ....... unmolested will bring a premium down the road.

breaksdaily said:

I've had around 10 dsms and never have had a clutch master fail...more diagnosis tomorrow.

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FWIW:
* In January, a local guy tried to fire up his 1G after sitting for 6 years and the clutch pedal dropped to the floor. Master cylinder was shot.
* MY clutch pedal dropped to the floor a few days ago... after sitting for 7 years. Master cylinder is shot.

Doing the master F it ... Stay tuned

OGDSM1989 said:

THEN FOR GODS SAKE LEAVE IT BE ....... unmolested will bring a premium down the road.

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+9001

breaksdaily said:

Doing the master F it ... Stay tuned

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let me know how that goes. i'm pretty sure thats what it is, its done it to me once on my 97 RS.

At work, doing master when I get home, best $1200 steal of the century.

How many miles, BTW?