Kiggly Main Girdle dilemma

ForgednLA · Jul 26, 2011

Having a 6bolt built for my 2g. The block is machined, crank balanced and heads refreshed just waiting for everything to be delivered. I read that the Kiggly main girdle helps strengthen your bottom end. And since this is my 4th engine in 5 years (long story) I am looking for a little added security. Since I believed it was a straight bolt on I purchased one. Which leads to my dilemma. The Kiggly Main Girdle is not a straight fit and it needs some machine work, and maybe longer studs(or so I'm told from the machine shop) Which is going to cost me to re-machine the block to get it to fit. So yesterday I went back to the Kiggly Website and found this about the Main Girdle

http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/MG_Instructions.pdf

Where was this information when I purchased it? Maybe, I was giddy with enthusiasm and over looked it, or maybe Kiggly just added it to their site. Whatever maybe the case here I sit at the crossroads. Should I re machine the block., or should I try and return it?

My car and uses:

A/T with IPT transmission rebuild
Engine:
CP Pistons 9:1, Eagle rods, Complete valvetrain redo (Supertech Springs/retainers, valves , and seals, Ferrea value guides),and GSC S1 Camshafts.

Use and Goals:
325whp autocross, 345 - 350whp DD , and 435whp occasional drag.

laserspeeddemon · Jul 26, 2011

How in the world are you killing 4 motors at only 350whp?

99gst_racer · Jul 26, 2011

You overlooked it, because that PDF has been around for a while.

For your goals, you really don't need to worry about main cap fretting. Unless you don't mind spending the extra money on machining, just return it or sell it.

ForgednLA · Jul 26, 2011

laserspeeddemon said:
How in the world are you killing 4 motors at only 350whp?

Well, actually it's 3, this will be my 4th. Here's the quick version with no supporting details.
#1. Bought car; 3months later stock engine go bye bye.
#2. Had Union Mitsubishi install a new engine, 3 weeks later engine go bye bye. Dealership went out of business the previous week.
#3 2 months ago Car experienced rod knock while on Dyno.

The sad thing about it is the car never seen 350hp. The car was dyno'd in 09 @ 195whp. But, that was before the mods. I finally had supporting mods on the last engine and was hoping for 286whp. Car reached about 224whp/300tq when it experienced rod knock.

This is just the Engine issues. I hadn't mentioned the 2 head jobs, and a blown transmission, all on my GSX. My 98 RS also gave me hell for it's 4 years of ownership till I donated it to the Polly Klaas Foundation. There's only going to be one money pit in my garage, so the RS had to go.

So the goals I posted are based on this current build.

1990AWD · Jul 26, 2011

IIRC, the Kiggly girdle is made for use with ARP main studs only.

95AWDTerror · Jul 26, 2011

Main girdle's typically are used with studs.

ForgednLA · Jul 26, 2011

With my luck, I might as well see how much it's going to cost to have the block re-machined, I'll make my decision after that.

stukyl28 · Jul 26, 2011

It shouldn't be much to do a line hone on your block

99gst_racer · Jul 26, 2011

stukyl28 said:
It shouldn't be much to do a line hone on your block

An align hone won't be much. But there's also disassembly, cleaning, and re-assembly. Plus the cost of the ARP's.

Depending on the machine shop, that could easily all run $450+.

EDIT: Unless the block is already torn down and at the machine shop. In that case, an align hone and studs shouldn't run any more than $200 tops.

ForgednLA · Jul 26, 2011

It's already machined honed, and I have ARP'S already. I spoke to the shop, and it depends on how much work needs to be done. Though he did mention it's rare for the girdle to be almost drop in. I don't need it, but I guess I'll be paying for piece of mind.

RvlutionMtrsprt · Jul 26, 2011

Unless the main line was honed with the girdle installed (which it sounds like it wasn't), you will need to have the main line honed again WITH the girdle installed and torqued to spec. The use of the girdle will pull the main line out of round. Next thing you will run into is oil pan fitment. Once you install ARP main studs and a girdle, 2 of the nuts will hit the oil pan flange. You'll need to clearance the pan to fit or run a triple thick gasket to clear the nuts.

ForgednLA · Jul 30, 2011

No modification needed to the block or STM oil pan :hellyeah:

The girdle dropped right in. :thumb:

enriquez2000 · Mar 14, 2016

Anyone have that pdf? Link is dead

3VOLUTIONIST · Mar 15, 2016

Head over to the Kiggly website, was there last time I checked.

Usually on a six bolt:
-minimal grinding of the casting rquired for clearance
-ARP studs mandatory
-Oil pickup mount clearance might be a problem
-Align hone recommended, but I've heard of many people not having that done, with no ill effects.

ShadyDoins · Mar 15, 2016

I wouldn't categorize the align hone as just recommended, I would say it's required and anyone who attempts to get away without one is doing it completely at their own risk.

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Kiggly Main Girdle dilemma

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