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1G Clutch problems. Need a pivot ball shim?

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AHGetToDaChoppa

Probationary Member
5
0
Feb 4, 2016
West Palm Beach, Florida
So I just bought this car a couple weeks ago and it has been awesome.
The previous owner said there was an act 2100 6 puck in it and I'll be damned if that was not the hardest thing to drive for a week. I had managed to become quite used to it but as I had just acquired the car, I may have missed some ques to show failure would happen.
The clutch had been very grabby and hard on engagement. I am not sure if the fork or ball had been changed when the clutch was put in and I do not have a time frame for that happening either. The clutch was very stiff and felt like it engaged just about the floor.
Well as I was revering out of a parking space the other day the car started shuddering really bad and then stalled. At the same time I lost the feeling of the clutch in the pedal. It would still come back up, but it felt like nothing was pushing back on it. Manage to limp it home by starting it in gear and clutchless shifting.
I thought slave at first due to me being a novice still and not quite knowing what I am doing. As I was putting the new one on i realized the fork was not sitting in the right position at all and was actually pressing up against the bell housing when the clutch was pushed.
I am all ready preparing for a transmission drop, but I want to make sure I am in the right direction with what to fix. I think I can shim the pivot ball to get the fork back in position and solve my problem. It just leaves me confused as to how it failed in the first place and went from working to not in an instant.
What could have happened to cause me to need to shim it now? Ill be able to see better when I open it up but from what I could see in the hole everything looks okay, nothing looks broken or bent.
Ideas?

Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/lfBL6
 
You'll know more once you drop the transmission like you said. I'd also check that clutch disk. I've had a similar situation where the clutch was grabbing right off the floor. The clutch disk was completely gone on the flywheel side. Not likely the case since you pulled the fork boot and peeked inside and all looked good. Good luck :thumb:
 
Shimming is often perceived as a solution but too often is it a bandage for another condition. Your setup is very common so I would start looking at the fork and other wear components first.

I will give you an example. Before I diagnosed an out of adjustment clutch pedal, I shimmed a Fidanza 3.2 setup with their aluminium flywheel. Oh, was I young.. After that, I was chasing rpm drop every time I clutched in, until I removed the shim.
 
Simple answer is if the fork is not bent and it is in the middle or slightly to the slave side of the window then no you don't have to shim. Only shim if the fork is left of middle. Make sure you can push the slave rod back into it's bore by hand as well to make sure you don't have an over adjusted master rod(pedal)
 
As it has already been said that shimming is just a band aid fix, so is this but it worked for me when my adjustment was all the way out and I wanted to bring it back in spec. I got an extended slave rod. Not the best fix but if you are fully functional and just want better clutch height w/o turning the rod so far out you just might be happy with it.
 
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