GsXdSmKingGsX
10+ Year Contributor
- 4,576
- 32
- Dec 13, 2008
-
Plainview,
Minnesota
Still the best build thread on this forum. Props, Corey.
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I'm glad you bumped this, I just noticed that as close as I was to being caught up my life got in the way and I'm almost 3yrs behind again. I've got nothing planned Sunday so I'll probably binge post and try to get a years worth of updates in. To be honest, there was a lot less mod'ing going on these last 3 years - I was planning a wedding for nearly a year, then a honeymoon, then trying to recoup financially after the chaos and leaving the car on the very very very back burner.Updates?
The current setup I have stock Evo beehive springs with a estimated seat pressure of 60lbs, so lets use Kevin's psia equation to see where my setup falls with the 28psi I was seeing hitting the rev limiter. I'll use 14.2psi because I'm 1000' above sea level...The limiting factor in the 4G63 valvetrain is typically boost levels, not RPM. To protect against this, we recommend targeting seat pressure at about 1.7x your absolute manifold pressure (boost + 14.7psi). This tends to be the worst case scenario and varies widely with the engine’s parts combo.
I'll have to look into that tool. What do you use to keep the valves from dropping into the CC? I have a leak down testing kit, I was thinking I could just pressurize it with air or saw a method using a rope.I use the blue point tool. It takes about 1 hour longer than a standard timing belt job to swap the springs out.
I use a compression tester adapter with the shrader valve removed. It has the same fitting as an air tool, and my compressor hose snaps right onto it. 100psi of pressure works fine. I've only dropped a valve 1 time, and it was because the piston was cracked.I'll have to look into that tool. What do you use to keep the valves from dropping into the CC? I have a leak down testing kit, I was thinking I could just pressurize it with air or saw a method using a rope.
I use a compression tester adapter with the shrader valve removed. It has the same fitting as an air tool, and my compressor hose snaps right onto it. 100psi of pressure works fine. I've only dropped a valve 1 time, and it was because the piston was cracked.
The Honda garage guys use the rope method a lot, I've never done it that way.
The blue point tool, and a small 5lb hammer get it done for me.
Of course piston at TDC, after removing spring you can also hold valve up with a WOODEN clothesline pin, while you get everything
organize to mount new spring.