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420A 420A w/ built on turbo questions

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Inkdlyfe

Proven Member
438
7
Feb 23, 2016
Summer feild, Florida
Alright so i have a 420A 2G Eclipse that has a turbo built onto it it's not a factory turbo I have a OEM stage clutch in it now here the problem.

:dsm:1. When I go to race someone or just drop a gear to accel threw a light or something IDK but when I ride out a gear like hit 7k RPMs and shift quickly I can smell the clutch burning and when I'm in 5th gear and max it out lets say I shift fast and only max out my RPMs at 60mph I can smell the clutch burning too. Is this due to a stock clutch, is that why? now applying to the first question

:dsm:2. Can someone tell me why I build boost and RPMs SOOOO fast? Like if I don't ease into it and floor it I hit red line but don't really go any where. :( Is there away to turn down the boost or maybe get more outta each gear? >>55mm turbo hitting about 18lbs of boost<< it's quick for sure but it seems like I'm building boost entirely too fast and not going as fast as I'm sounding :(

:dsm:3. I noticed after putting the factory O2 sensor in that the car does run with it connected to the narrowband. I did find that out but now I'm wondering is it causing this problem. The car isn't running as rich as it was but it still seems like its smoking due to a lot of gas, why is this ? >>EGR is deleted<< and when I go to accel it don't wanna really go past 4k in 1st and 2nd mainly in 2nd gear wants to kinda studder. >>new map with missing link<<

:dsm:4. When I come to a complete stop like not moving at all the car seems to wanna stall and run rough but if I'm moving just a slight bit it idles at 1k and don't wanna die?

A lot there but can someone help me out please? :banghead:
 
Stock clutch isn't enough, need to upgrade

Not familiar with other problems related to the 420a, you need an upgraded clutch, and other goodies to support the turbo ( hopefully the car is tuned for that turbo, and has the appropriate supporting mods, headstuds, injectors, fuel pump, etc.) id stay outta boost before you grenade that clutch and possibly hurt the car
 
i been driving the car fine all honesty im surprised that the clutch has held up this long :/ but im not complaining imma prob go to a stage 3 clutch but its got precision injectors not sure what cc tho.. it has 40 psi of fuel going to it i know that much tho..
 
Some low compression pistons will help it feel faster.

What? I hope that's a joke...

OP, if you are hitting that much boost and not picking up speed (this is a guess) you might be running excessively rich and/or getting alot of knock, which will exaserbate the situation.

Truthfully you need a wide band, not a narrow band, and at least some way to log, preferably a piggyback if not full tuning solution. I'd suggest taking it easy on the racing till you can get some way to monitor a few vital readings from the motor. You also need to find out what injectors you have.

Your clutch is probably slipping and may be contributing to your slow feeling. If it is, youre going to burn it out soon. Get some proper monitoring and logging equipment, replace the clutch, and we can help you iron out issues from there.
 
It's not a factory turbo?

I hope this "racing someone" is confined to the strip with the appropriate gear because otherwise a ticking time bomb doing pulls on the street endangers all. You need to investigate what is actually in the car, engine to suspension, before something pops and you lose control.

The english in there killed my brain. I had to stop halfway through because it was too much frantic fragmentation.
 
If you don't even know what injectors are in the car, park it, tear it down and find out what you really have.
Even if I where to break it down how would I know injectors ? Is there a number on them or... I looked up the brand and the lowest they make is 540c.c

Everything has already been looked over and the suspension is completely stock even in stock springs still. In pretty sure the internals are done due to him telling me it's rated at 23 lbs of boost.. Everything is name brand nothing seems to be just slapped on there. And also It is running quite rich but not as rich as it was before I put the new o2 in. Still runs rich when you give it an excessive amount of gas but when cruising its in the green.
 
And yes I know I gotta get a wide band everyone been telling me this I wanted to get all these minor flaws outta the way first to take care of the check engine lights
 
I'd park it and do everything except pull the block, I lf you wanna enjoy it for times to come. Pull the valve cover, see if it has OEM headstuds, pull the pan, check the rods out, id pull the head, see if they are OEM pistons, you can re use arps if it has them, home saying its good for 23 lbs means nothing especially if all he had was a narrow band, does it have megasquirt? Or is there a big FMU in the engine bay? You'll be able to look up the injectors by some sort of number on them usually, unless they the worst eBay with no I.d. Pull the fuel pump see whats in there too
 
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