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Best stock turbo setup

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TiniacosMotorsports

Proven Member
34
1
Nov 25, 2014
pensacola, Florida
Looking for info and parts for the best stock turbo setup. Such as fmic,bov,exhaust,downpipe. And any other helpful mods. 97 eclipse gst 5 speed.
 
Video, slips, mod list?
No i dont, that was in 04' maybe 05'. Basic set up, safc, 650's.

I just went 13.20@102 with a stock auto car, 2g maf/550cc combo, and a broken center diff. My timeslip from that run is already so faded i cant read it LOL. At least i have it on the pc, my build thread here as well. If this car had a working/welded center diff it would have gone 12's as well. Basically stock. A properly set up "stockish" car "should" run 12's. These guys running 14's with a mod list crack me up.
 
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Why do people think the first things they should get is Vent BOV and a big ass FMIC? Who the hell came up with that...

Too many people coming from the honda/subaru/nissan thinking sound and looks = performance. Lucky for us, our cars look good from the factory so we don't need aftermarket wings or body kits. ;)
 
If it's never going to upgrade from the stock turbo I would maybe put an exhaust on it. The stock turbo is maxed out to begin with. All the mods in the world won't make much of a difference.

Do all the maintenance, some handling mods, and the car will be as fun as it gets with a t25.
 
91stocker if you read my post I clearly said if he has plans to upgrade(turbo,ect) link would be a good decision along with stating it would be good to learn tuning on a stockish platform.

You wont need link until you decide to go with a bigger turbo which will require a better intercooler, larger fuel pump/injectors, wideband, and fuel pressure regulator. If those are your plans then link would be a good idea bc your going to need it eventually.

I said in the last post if he's going to stay on the stock turbo and smic link isn't a must have mod. Another thought is his car is a 2g and the smic is a lot smaller than the 1g along with the t25 being a lot smaller than the 14b. I don't get where 2step will really benefit with launching a fwd maybe someone can enlighten me, unless running slicks I don't get the need for 2 step/launch control. It seems practice of clutch/throttle control would play a better roll in better 60' times.

If it's never going to upgrade from the stock turbo I would maybe put an exhaust on it. The stock turbo is maxed out to begin with. All the mods in the world won't make much of a difference.

^exactly what ive been trying to get at
 
Instead of arguing about the OP getting ECMLink or not, offer alternatives. An SAFC will be fine (as mentioned in my opinion previously). Do not forget that ECMLink is a powerful diagnostic tool as well, hence my suggestion to use it. For this alone, ECMLink is well worth the investment.

@TSi-Rocket : The differences between the 1g and 2g SMIC are very minor. While true that the 1g has a "slightly" thicker core, I would hardly say that the stock 2g SMIC is a lot smaller. One other difference is that the inlet and outlet on the 2g SMIC slightly larger than than the 1g SMIC.

Why has no else mentioned and lsd? This would be one of the best handling modifications one could do on the FWD drive train.
 
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. Do not forget that ECMLink is a powerful diagnostic tool as well, hence my suggestion to use it. For this alone, ECMLink is well worth the investment.

Agreed, but an safc is dinosaur technology now. I wouldn't want to cut into the harness to install something that wont be there very long.

Why has no else mentioned and lsd? This would be one of the best handling modifications one could do on the FWD drive train.

Richard went 10.90's on a stock fwd open diff. And i dont think the car is ready to need to dig into equal length half shafts mods just yet.
 
What I'm saying is a tuning option isn't essential to max the potential of the t25 and 2g smic not weather or not to get it, im saying it is not needed for what the OP's current goals are. You can install exhaust, a turbo intake with filter, fuel pump (evo or walbro 190, with 255lph pumps most recommend FPR), wideband, turn the boost up a little and not need link to do it. If the op decides to tune for fun or plans for future upgrades I would for sure suggest ecmlink. The safc are a pita along with the maf translators. The other option would be tunerpro/jackal but the tuning information/help is not as widely available as ecmlink.
 
Richard went 10.90's on a stock fwd open diff. And i don't think the car is ready to need to dig into equal length half shafts mods just yet.
They make a fwd LSD for the 2g. At lower power levels, the original axles should be fine. Regardless of what one person did once, an LSD would be a great handling modification. The difference is night and day. This is from first hand experience, not someone else's. Getting what power you have to the ground is just as if not, more important than how much you have.
 
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I'd go with what Nate said on the first page of this thread.
As you've already done timing belt, my 2cents is: do a detailed check for boost leaks, and fix them. Then put on an evo metal bov and decent boost gauge. You will love it. :D
My T25 was staying between 13-15 with this when I put my foot into it. I didn't mess with the boost solenoid either. IMO you don't need fuel mods or exhaust mods or tuning mods until you have installed a bigger turbo or boosted past 15.
Some folks like a more aggressive sounding exhaust note though:rolleyes:
 
I dont want to start an arguement here, but everyones mod progression is completely backwards. You can not install a larger turbo and use any of it without a tuner.

For example:
IMO you don't need or exhaust mods or tuning mods until you have installed a bigger turbo or boosted past 15.

Should read:
IMO you cant run a bigger turbo or boosted past 15 or fuel mods until you have tuning mods installed.

Not vice versa.

Same with:
You wont need link until you decide to go with a bigger turbo which will require a better intercooler, larger fuel pump/injectors, wideband, and fuel pressure regulator.

Should read:
You wont need a bigger turbo which will require a better intercooler, larger fuel pump/injectors, wideband, and fuel pressure regulator until you buy link.

Tuning is a prerequisite to a larger turbo. A larger turbo is not a prerequisite for a tuner.

Also advising a larger turbo, fmic's, hla's, e85, intake manifolds, over priced evo parts, an lsd front diff, IS all just plain bad advise. This is a STOCK car .

Some of these people are the same people posting on the "cheap dsmer" thread. Well maybe people are that way because we have countless members and even wiseman advising new members to rip their car apart for extensive mods that are unneeded and its unknown if the new member has the ability to do those unneeded mods. Its even more crazy that people agree with those poor decisions.
 
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What I'm saying is a tuning option isn't essential to max the potential of the t25 and 2g smic not weather or not to get it, im saying it is not needed for what the OP's current goals are.

Regardless, it is still misinformation and needed some clarification.

When I mention LSD, I understand it is not a be all, end all, but will benefit a FWD car tremendously stock turbo or otherwise. Specifically, the Quaife LSD (for FWD) would be my choice if you don't want to deal with clutch packs. Not only for 1/4 mile, but in many conditions. Cornering is vastly improved as you can accelerate sooner thus increasing exit speed. Torque-steer is something I prefer not dealing with that and two wheels putting down power. For 1/4 mile, imagine this benefit coupled with launch control! I have offered all I will about the LSD.

Installing the LSD is not that difficult and is hardly "extensive". This is from my personal experience as a DIYer, as I am not a transmission specialist, nor would I attempt a tans rebuild myself.


@91stocker ;
An argument is exactly what you are eliciting. Let me invite you to read the original post:

Looking for info and parts for the best stock turbo setup. Such as fmic,bov,exhaust,downpipe. And any other helpful mods. 97 eclipse gst 5 speed.

The way I read this is that the OP is looking for advise. The parts I have suggested fall quite within the OP's request. "Any other helpful mods" does include my LSD suggestion. Like you, I also am not making assumptions about the OPs mechanical skills or ability. However, I am not also assuming the OP only wants to go in a straight line. It is really unnecessary to bring the "Cheap DSMer" thread into this and is rather irrelevant to the discussion. Being on here a while as a proven member I would have assumed you are a bit more understanding to other's opinions and know when to shut your mouth. Many of the items I have suggested, you have repeated in your other posts. Many of the parts I suggested, are rather cheap, and easy to get. The only poor decision in this thread was post #36.
 
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@91stocker
No arguments just differences of opinion.
I wouldn't say evo parts are expensive. I wouldn't suggest upgrading air fuel delivery without a tuning method whether link, black box, or older methods. Thought that was clear:thumb: OPs original question was best set up for his T25. Bogus probably gave him the best answer, but I happen to agree with some of Nates suggestions in his first post.
Little tired of hearing the suggestion to immediately buy DSM link as first mod. He never said he wanted to drag race or wear down his clutch fast. He's a mechanic (profile) and this is his DD.
I didn't see a DSM profile so I don't know the year of the car but he could potentially get evo scan and a cable for 200 and get experience logging right away.

I do like some of your posts, but sometimes you do seem to want to egg others on. I could be wrong!
 
It just gets old reading newbie thread after newbie thread and seeing the same nonsense spewed over each and every one. Advising a larger turbo, bov's, fuel mods, large fmic's, e85, intake manifolds and countless other nonsensical mods to new members, who probably then go out and tear their car apart based on the advise they got on what they thought was a trust worthy site. The car sits on jack stands for the next two years and is eventually parted out perpetuating the "dsm is not reliable" rumors.

It all starts with good advice. Link is a diagnostic tool, that like said above is worth the price for that alone. Link, wideband, boost gauge and controller is already $1000 in parts, many afternoons in labor, and countless hours learning link itself. Basically the first year of owning a dsm should involve maintenance and installing and learning link/reading logs.

Anything past that is a waste of time. By the time that first year is over they'll know enough about the car to know exactly where to go from there. So we should advise new members to slow down, one step at at time, and learn link.
 
It just gets old reading newbie thread after newbie thread and seeing the same nonsense spewed over each and every one. Advising a larger turbo, bov's, fuel mods, large fmic's, e85, intake manifolds and countless other nonsensical mods to new members, who probably then go out and tear their car apart based on the advise they got on what they thought was a trust worthy site. The car sits on jack stands for the next two years and is eventually parted out perpetuating the "dsm is not reliable" rumors.

It all starts with good advice. Link is a diagnostic tool, that like said above is worth the price for that alone. Link, wideband, boost gauge and controller is already $1000 in parts, many afternoons in labor, and countless hours learning link itself. Basically the first year of owning a dsm should involve maintenance and installing and learning link/reading logs.

Anything past that is a waste of time. By the time that first year is over they'll know enough about the car to know exactly where to go from there. So we should advise new members to slow down, one step at at time, and learn link.

The OP already has this understood.

My gst is my daily driver. And I'm just trying to take it slow till I can get a gsx then I'll go a little bit bigger with the build. I'll get the link ,boost controller, wideband , fuel system, new piping , and a different side mount. And see where that puts me. Any suggestions on brands ?

Share your frustrations in the hangout. This is all you really needed to say:

It all starts with good advice. Link is a diagnostic tool, that like said above is worth the price for that alone. Link, wideband, boost gauge and controller is already $1000 in parts, many afternoons in labor, and countless hours learning link itself. Basically the first year of owning a dsm should involve maintenance and installing and learning link/reading logs. So we should advise new members to slow down, one step at at time, and learn link.

@91stocker ; I have recommended the Evo MR bypass valve (direct replacement) because the stock 2g bypass valve leaks even at stock levels. The fuel mods I recommended are at the beginner level to work with ECMLink at safe and reliable levels. The other items you have expressed frustration with I also do not agree with, but I would at least follow it up with support for the OP.

For example:

I would not advice an FMIC at this point as you will see a decrease in performance (increased spool time) due to pressure drop.
 
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What I am doing. Is going to make it a fun corner stock car. But I just got a new daily so I'm able to work on the gst more than what I do now. So I will be pulling the motor soon and doing a balanceshafts delete . Dsm link a wide and boost controller boost gauge intake exhaust different intercooler piping fuel rewire. Replace all suspension parts and make it a nice clean car.
 
So I'm at the point of were I'm about to pull my motor delete the balance shafts install cams install dsmlink replace my front suspension. I'm staying with the T25 and stock sidemount. Couldn't find a mk4 supra sidemoumt near me so I'm kepping the stock sidemount . Also going to be installing a wideband and boost gauge and boostcontroller. Any other suggestions? While I have motor out?
 
I'm putting a lot of money into my gst and keeping it fwd. I plan on buying a 2g gsx later on in the year. My dsm is no longer my DD I bought another car so I can spend more time working on the dsm .I'm working on inspecti the motor completely and wanting to replace all gaskets and timing components. I'm going to make sure the motor is in great condition before I put my cams and a link in. I'm trying to do something different that I have not seen near me. I'm not planning on taking to drags. I plan on just making it a fun car that I can learn how to tune on. Thank yiu for your suggestions and build ideas. I'm really excited about the build. Any suggestions on what I should do while my motor is out? To help with keeping the motor running strong.
Thanks.
 
I would not delete the balance shafts unless you are rebuilding the motor. There are good reasons to keep them in. Just make sure to change the tensioner and belt while you are completing the timing service.
 
These cars are going on 20 years old,

Cam seals
Crank seal
Oil pump sprocket seal
Timing belt
Balance shaft belt
Oem mitsubishi tensioner assembly

Keep the balance shafts, do the job right with oem parts. Do the job right, use vfaq, print vfaq, and refer to vfaq and the car will run another 60k miles

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Well i got my motor pulled last weekend The 7 bolt is about to get sent to be machined. the 7 bolt will have balance shaft deleted due to one of the bearings going out. Now im looking for me a second block but dont know where to find just a 6 bolt block been searching online couldnt find one with just the block . trying to have 2 block ready to go when i need it.
 

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