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1G New pcv valve

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mattduncan93

Proven Member
48
0
Jun 8, 2014
jacksonville, North_Carolina
While doing a bot I found my valve cover leaking air and took off my pcv and can blow through both ends. So I go to AutoZone and buy a new one and get home and the new isn't any better than my old one call the store and have him check the parts on the shelf and both of those can be blown through? I've read and everyone says if you can blow through the barn end it's trash? So what does everyone do for a pcv valve?
 
On my 2g the pcv valve is really just a one way check valve. So blow on one side and it holds pressure, blow the other side and it flows air through. If you can hear it rattle it's still good, they usually fail from oil buildup preventing the ball from sealing where it is suppose to. I cleaned my old pcv valve out and it worked fine, but I still used the shiny one from autozone which also worked as it should

On my ls1's the pcv valve is just a vacuum restrictor, you can blow through it but it takes more pressure to do so

On a side note I hope you wiped off the tip first before you blew it. ;)
 
The problem is that most of the car that use this PCV valve are NA, so sealing under boost isn't a key parameter for the aftermarket manufactures.

Back when our cars were new I could count on the Dealer OEM part working but after 1999 that was less true and today I'm surprised when I find one that does seal under any pressure from the manifold side. You'll read threads in the archives here on using a check valve in addition to the PCV.
 
I use a Kynar check valve (3/8). They are fairly cheap, and are very effective. I have it plumbed between the catch can and intake manifold. For the moment, I still have the OE PCV in place as well.

Another option to use the brake booster hose from a 3g Eclipse or Evo that has a check valve built in.
 
I have a few on hand, and test them before each racing event. They have held up fine for me.

If you have the funds, I used Krank vents on my 3000GT:

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I went back and verified, all of the pcv 1144 on the shelf at my local autozone function flawlessly. So the one I bought from autozone, plus the two they had on the shelf worked perfectly. They should rattle, really all they are is a ball and a spring inside of a cylindrical chamber. They are a stainless chrome color

I also went back and double checked my old one that I had just replaced and it did not seal completely, and was leaking pressure. The old one is nasty and i never bothered to check it, just replaced it. That old one being bad would explain some of my oil leaks from too much crank pressure possibly and loosing boost in the upper rpms
 
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I have bought pcv valves from napa, autozone, advance, and some smaller local stores and all would pass air when blowing thru the side it shouldnt. Buddy with a dsm gave me an oem pcv valve years ago, I usually remove it soak it in b12 or spray and soak with brakeclean and put it back in as it always works better than the ones ive found at the store. I also have an inline check valve.

It seems a lot of people eliminate the pcv and run a catch can.
 
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