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1G Brake rotor sits uneven.

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gusu

10+ Year Contributor
1,949
32
Sep 9, 2009
Independence, Oregon
A couple weeks ago I was changing my alternator for the millonth time. When I was putting on the tire I had a wheel stud break off while torquing the lug nuts. No big deal, I bought a new one and installed it. But the rotor was a bi*** to get off.

So after I got it all put together I was driving it and it made the most ungodly screech you can imagine.... after fifteen miles of driving. It literally made zero noise before that.

Today I was going to take it off and it see what was making the the noise and the rotor was stuck again. I got it off with the two bolt holes with out much issue. I spin it with no dust cover and no more sound, it was making noise with it on though. I go to put the mads and caliper back on and no problems there. After I got everything together I spun it and it was making the noise again.

So I pulled everything and the rotor was stuck yet again.

Now the rotor will slide on no problem but i noticed it will not sit flat. I have 15 threads on one side and 12 on the other that stick passed the rotor if you are counting from the tip of the stud.

Any clues? I was thinking the bearing but it sounds fine til I get the entire braking assembly on then it screams. Even with just the rotor on after it is stuck on I should say, it will make a scrapping noise. I'm not sure why though. There is literally nothing scrapping on the rotor.
 
rust/corrosion under rotor hat or a bent rotor from when you pulled it off originally?

different situation, but when i did my rear outlander rotors, i had to clearance the center of the caliper as the rotor would just lightly scrape on it. took a bit of investigation to find the problem. just keep checking any and all places for contact.
 
When you take the rotor off you have to grind all the rust down on the hub. I pulled some neglected rotors off my rear, and when I first put the new ones on the wheel made a horrible scraping noise and I couldn't spin it by hand. I took the rotor off and saw the plate on the hub was corroded as hell. I used a dremel and ground it back down to bare metal but I still have some slight scraping when I go around turns which I hope will wear off.
 
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quick question, does your car have abs? from experience by a friend i helped, the rotor goes on a certain way. if not then i'd look at studs being straight enough or just needs some pressure
 
My car does not have ABS.

Just a bit of an update. I removed every stud and replaced them with new ones. I checked to make sure they went in straight and the rotor slides on fine but still sits a bit off. So I got a new rotor because they are cheap and to verify that it wasn't the rotor. I'm still having the same issue as I was before.

The thing I noticed this time is that it is rubbing on the mounting bracket of the caliper. The main difference is now if I try to put the new rotor on it wont get stuck after I put everything together. The old rotor still does. I have had zero issue removing the new rotor.

Do you guys think I might possibly have a warped hub?

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I dunno man, if were you I'd just change the hub. What's peculiar is the fact that the noise didn't start for 15 miles.
I've been dealing with chatter ever since I changed my rotors and pads shortly after I bought the car. I noticed the rear rotors were warped so I upgraded to drilled and slotted and ceramic pads, now I have constant chatter at low speeds and I can't zero in on what's causing it from where. As mentioned before I had to grind down a bunch of rust just to get them to spin freely, but I still hear a slight scrape when pulling on or off the highway.
My theory is that the bearings are my car are probably 20 years old, and even though there's no play or noise from them, when I changed the warped rotors, which worked with the worn hubs, it started to rub the hub unevenly.
I should also mention my noise started soon after I lowered the car 1.5". Installing a camber kit helped a little but I plan on replacing the hubs eventually. Just not in the budget right now.
So, id change the hubs and be done with it. It sucks you just put all new lugs in though.
 
How about a bad wheel bearing. Bolt the rotor down and check play and check run out. Run out will tell you if this thing is turning true. When youre turning this thing you are bolting the rotor down right?
 
Stupid question...are you using the correct rotors? The rotor should be nowhere near touching the brake mounting bracket. Otherwise seems unlikely that the caliper mounting tab could be bent to the point of touching the rotor or even that the hub had recessed slightly in the knuckle causing this. I would rebuild those knuckles, from the look of it the wheel bearing could be due using a little freshening.
 
So a quick update. I used the old and new rotor to make sure it wasnt either. But the rotor will go on all the way on one side but sits about a 1/16th of an inch off.
 
Is that yellowish area around the center of the hub scraped clean all around so it doesn't prevent the rotor from mounting flush? Also check both old and new rotors that touch there. Sometimes new ones have slightly different size center hole or the hole edge is shaped different.
 
Ya I would take a die grinder and scotch brite disc to that and clean it all up. Start with a fresh service :) seems it could be the hub that's bent somehow? You check that out yet. Did You just put new studs in it?
 
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