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1G Transfer Magnus Cover

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YoYo_4G63

15+ Year Contributor
187
3
Sep 5, 2008
Carolina, Puerto_Rico
I'm trying to figure it out, how this goes in? Did I miss some part? I bought this, of a second hand unused and it came just the cover and new bolts :/ the bearing have a big gap is that ok?

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Let me step in here and tell you what is going on. You have to pry the bearing RACE out of the original cover. I used a claw hammer of all things, but what ever you have to get the original race out of the original cover, it has to come out. Then put that race in your new cover and you should be golden. I am using a Frontline Fab brace but the same thing, you have to use your race or you'll eat up that cover in a few miles. :thumb:
 
Thank you! I heated the damn thing and with 2 pry bars, I took out that "race" ring and the shim

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Make certain the bearing is shimmed properly (inside new cover) per cover manufacturer/Mitsu and that you use a torque wrench on the bolts w/ respect to billet material—this is obvious but since you do not have the instructions you’ll want to look into this because there is the potential to cause damage if setup incorrectly, as gear tooth contact pattern is very important here (you’ll need to verify). May need to grind/ increase the shim dependent on what contact you see.

Just curious, were you breaking the OEM cover? And, what power are you making? I’ve broken several T-cases over the years, however I’ve never broken an OEM cover. Is there another reason, I am missing, in which this would be beneficial in adding strength to the system?
 
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Cool. I no there is preload specs for the tcase, but I transferred my shim and race over to my FF brace and its working just fine. Maverick is technically correct though. Just my experience on the thing, the checking of the proper lash is up to you. The reason I new you didn't have the race in is because my son did the same thing and never thought about the race. Man that thing ate up a FF brace pretty bad with no race in it but we still salvaged a $400 piece. Good luck. Glad I could help, if I did. :)
 
Make certain the bearing is shimmed to proper spec (inside new cover) and that you use a torque wrench on the bolts—this is obvious but since you do not have the instructions you’ll want to look into this because there is the potential to cause damage if setup incorrectly, as gear tooth contact pattern is very important here (you’ll need to verify). Unsure if the factory spec is recommended or maybe a tighter spec for drag application, etc…or if specific hardware or shim is included w/this billet cover...

Just curious, were you breaking the OEM cover? And, what power are you making? I’ve broken several T-cases over the years, however I’ve never broken an OEM cover. Is there another reason, I am missing, in which this would be beneficial in adding strength to the system?

Thanks I'm aware of the proper contact/shim @UrbanSmoker posted the instructions on the Magnus billet cover, thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/magnus-dsm-evo-1-3-billet-transfer-case-covers.458670/page-2
 
The instructions really say nothing specific and are incomplete on their face. The bearing specification was omitted, etc. but more importantly there is no torque spec for their fasteners on their billet cover neither included nor mentioned…may want to look elsewhere for specs based on these new materials as they are different than factory (bolts & new cover alloy vs. OEM cast iron, etc.). The point here is to simply keep that stuff in mind and look into it—if you wish. Good luck with your project.
 
Thank you! About the torque I think OEM specs are ok or not?
 
Well this is a unique product offered for a very specific problem. Unsure if you have experienced breaking your OEM cover or not…but, if this is happening then I would imagine you would want to keep the billet cover as tight (torqued down) as possible considering this piece is counteracting the forces present and keeping the gear in position…you also do not want it to loosen over time. In order to determine what max spec is optimal you need to look at a reputable chart for the materials in play and for the specific hardware (graded bolts) used. You should be able to find this stuff online as it won’t be in the factory service manual. I would make sure your threads are clean and you may want to use anti seize compound due to dissimilarity of the metals.
 
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