The tem "honing" is a very loosely used term.

If you stick it on a drill... thats a deglaze

You bolt it in a machine, and can actually remove some metal, Thats honing

You can not get in much trouble with either a 3 stone hone or a Dingleberry hone
Neither applies much outward pressure to the cylinder bores

Crosshatch needs to be in the 45*-60*

You know when you hone enough, when you see it, or you have gotten the measurement you want.


Now the question is what grit to use.... That depends on what rings you run and what finish you want.

BogusSVO said:

The tem "honing" is a very loosely used term.

If you stick it on a drill... thats a deglaze

You bolt it in a machine, and can actually remove some metal, Thats honing

You can not get in much trouble with either a 3 stone hone or a Dingleberry hone
Neither applies much outward pressure to the cylinder bores

Crosshatch needs to be in the 45*-60*

You know when you hone enough, when you see it, or you have gotten the measurement you want.


Now the question is what grit to use.... That depends on what rings you run and what finish you want.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply..

How would one determine what grit to use if they haven't decided what rings? (and by which rings you mean the manufacturer or the size?)

What are the benefits and drawbacks of different finishes? (by finish do you mean how dense you make the crosshatch on the cylinder?)

thanks again,
-Corey

different ring materials use different cylinder finishes. Go to JE proseal's page and read about it.

Typically for a 4g you will have a nitrided steel top ring and a iron second ring. They generally want a pretty fine finish and then plateau honed.

In the home garage it will be very difficult to exactly produce these finishes. Get a 280grit ball hone rough it up a bit and go.

contrary to popular belief, when using non-hard faced rings it is not necessary to do anything to the cylinder before installing new rings.

(i was thinking the full set of rings OEM is iron, been a day or 2 since i seen the OEM ones in my hand though so you should verify that)

you seem to not be doing a full rebuild or anything exotic, just get regular rings and put one new one in place of the one broken one and go on about your day.

if you want to put brand new rings on all the pistons but you are still going to use the original pistons i also would in no way touch the cylinders with any tools. the new rings will conform to the pre broken in cylinders no problem, where as if you do have them honed clearances will be changed and you may or may not end up with a good ring seal.

if for some unknown reason you feel like going with plated rings, you will need to bore and crosshatch the cylinders and use new pistons to get it to seal worth a dang.

I have done hone and go, builds and full bore builds both with and with out torque plates.

Maybe I am a bit to old school, But I would not ever drop new rings on an old cylinder finish.

zedicus said:

(i was thinking the full set of rings OEM is iron, been a day or 2 since i seen the OEM ones in my hand though so you should verify that)

Click to expand...

The factory rings are nitrided steel first / and Iron second. Virtually all jap engines are like this. Especially turbo stuff.

zedicus said:

if for some unknown reason you feel like going with plated rings, you will need to bore and crosshatch the cylinders and use new pistons to get it to seal worth a dang.

Click to expand...

Never use chrome rings in a turbo engine. It will cook the plating off.