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(non-Ebay) Electric Turbocharger (Supercharger?)

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Check out out Velocity Labs on youtube and maybe even Jafromobile. They both should respond and I'm sure something like this would appeal to Jafro plus he has all the skills necessary to make this work. He's currently running a 20G on his GSX so it would be a good contrast with performance.

Will do!

Check out my first crack at how I envision the turbo ecu Tuner app to look like..

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What do you all think?
 
On 'power config' side i think you need to have settings like "Max RPM" (in case someone wants to throttle down the turbo), "Max PSI" (so that turbo shuts off to prevent over boost), "Min battery voltage" (so the turbo shuts off to keep from draining the batteries too much), and add "Activate on RPM" to 'activation config' (since TPS and RPM are not always directly related to each other). If possible make it so that if a setting is set above/below a 'safe' value it's text color is changed so while the system would do a thing that thing might cause damage to the system. That way it is possible to overclock the system, only it should not be done all the time. Also a "test" function would be nice so that the turbo can be turned on at slow RPMs for boost leak tests and whatnot. Another useful readout to have would be the amperage that this turbo is using, as well as it's speed. This would help in case there is a problem, so that driver would notice that turbo is using too much power for it's speed. "Estimated run time" and "Estimated recharge time" could be nice too since it would make it easier to manage usage of boost and would allow for better strategising of said boost on the race track.
On a side note "ET Tuner" sounds like "Estimated Time tuner" and while to an extent it does that this is not an accurate name. Try something like "Super Electric Snail Boost Manager" :) Or simply "Electric Turbo manager".

One more thing: what software do you use to create this interface window?

EDIT: ErikTande on these forums is the fellow who does Velocity Labs on youtube, in case you did not know.
 
On 'power config' side i think you need to have settings like "Max RPM" (in case someone wants to throttle down the turbo), "Max PSI" (so that turbo shuts off to prevent over boost), "Min battery voltage" (so the turbo shuts off to keep from draining the batteries too much), and add "Activate on RPM" to 'activation config' (since TPS and RPM are not always directly related to each other).
I think we have to be clear on whose RPM we are talking about.. The car engine or the turbo. We technically can't add a Max RPM for the electric motor simply because we are not really tracking the electric motor's RPM. This is why the Power Config section has two fields.. One called RPM (meant for the car's RPM) and the other is power (meant for the electric motor). In the power config section you can set how much power you want the electric motor to emit at what engine RPM.
If possible make it so that if a setting is set above/below a 'safe' value it's text color is changed so while the system would do a thing that thing might cause damage to the system. That way it is possible to overclock the system, only it should not be done all the time.
The power config action panel will definitely color coded. Anything above 90% will be red, anything over 70 will be yellow and anything over under 70 will be green. It will be important to keep in mind that running the electric turbo at 100% is the max amount of power the electric motor can work at as a limitation of the motor and not the electricity. overclocking the electric motor at 115% will destroy it so 100% is the real limit.

Also a "test" function would be nice so that the turbo can be turned on at slow RPMs for boost leak tests and whatnot.
This is an excellent idea! I'll have to think more on how to make this work. This tuner app will create a file that gets uploaded to the Arduino board so I have to figure out how to set up a direct interface... as an alternative; I could add an overwrite switch with a pot to manually control the motor...

Another useful readout to have would be the amperage that this turbo is using, as well as it's speed. This would help in case there is a problem, so that driver would notice that turbo is using too much power for it's speed. "Estimated run time" and "Estimated recharge time" could be nice too since it would make it easier to manage usage of boost and would allow for better strategising of said boost on the race track.

Another awesome idea but I wouldn't know how to implement this. We are not getting any feedback from the motor so we technically don't know what's happening real time.. we can only make accurate assumptions. Based on what we do know IE:

we know the motor's power maxes out at 115k RPM @ 48V and 225A

Because of this we know that in theory if we run the motor at 50% power we could be running the motor at 24V and 225A (57,500 RPM with a full load) or if there is half the load it could be at 48V and 112.5 AMPS (115k RPM with half the load)
either or we know that running the motor at 50% power is drawing 5400KW of power which is 7.24 HP. We would have to add a high voltage high amp reader somewhere if we did want to get more accurate.. I can technically have someone build me an ESC that could possibly return more information about the motor... but I don't know if this is a possibility.. yet.

On a side note "ET Tuner" sounds like "Estimated Time tuner" and while to an extent it does that this is not an accurate name. Try something like "Super Electric Snail Boost Manager" :) Or simply "Electric Turbo manager".
I'll change that :)
One more thing: what software do you use to create this interface window?
I'm using Visual Studio.
EDIT: ErikTande on these forums is the fellow who does Velocity Labs on youtube, in case you did not know.
We should include him once we have something to show :)

On a side note.... I came up with an awesome solution of live logging of an estimated CFM value! One of the things that I'm going to be including is a digital boost gauge that I'm building which will have a pressure sensor. Due to the fact that we will easily be able to measure pressure now and we have hp based on the allotted power of the motor.. we could find CFM being produced... now this wont be as accurate as reading directly from an airflow censor.. but it's something :)
 
Did not realize that this would be it's own thing just to program the Arduino. Although the A does have a small screen that can be used, so that might provide some feedback. Or at least you could add some LED readouts for voltage/amperage. They are cheap and 'should be' a simple wire-in.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=arduino_screen-_-9SIA9083AB3165-_-Product <<< Touch screen
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6&cm_re=volt_meter-_-9SIA76H2GT8616-_-Product <<< Volt meter readout (100V max)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=300A_amp_meter-_-9SIA4391DP8096-_-Product <<< Amp meter readout (300A max)
There are combination volt/amp readouts as well, but they look too small and would be difficult to see while driving.
 
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Did not realize that this would be it's own thing just to program the Arduino. Although the A does have a small screen that can be used, so that might provide some feedback. Or at least you could add some LED readouts for voltage/amperage. They are cheap and 'should be' a simple wire-in.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=arduino_screen-_-9SIA9083AB3165-_-Product <<< Touch screen
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6&cm_re=volt_meter-_-9SIA76H2GT8616-_-Product <<< Volt meter readout (100V max)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ..._re=300A_amp_meter-_-9SIA4391DP8096-_-Product <<< Amp meter readout (300A max)
There are combination volt/amp readouts as well, but they look too small and would be difficult to see while driving.

Thanks for the find! The ecu will have a small screen so I got that covered. Those electricity readers you found would be great to for showing current battery information! I wonder if I could find one where it has an output wire that I can connect to my Arduino board.. hmmm..

This is my parts list so far for those wondering..

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If you wanted to reach out to Jafro, he will absolutely get things done right and he's only about 2 hours from you in Richmond VA. Plus lots of people value his opinion so if he has good things to say that will help the reputation of the product.
 
If you wanted to reach out to Jafro, he will absolutely get things done right and he's only about 2 hours from you in Richmond VA. Plus lots of people value his opinion so if he has good things to say that will help the reputation of the product.

I promise that I will contact him once I have something to show him LOL On a side note; I actually moved to Ohio! I'll keep you guys posted on more updates.. I've been working on the software portion lately. I'm hoping to have a video out for you guys soon!
 
This is what I envision the screens to have. The left is a loading image on boot up and the right is live car information and electric motor information. I might include the other screens for voltage reading but I'm still looking for something that I can plug in to the Arduino board.

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Here is a forum thread related to what you are looking for: http://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/arduino-voltmeter-and-ammeter/
In it there is a link to a microchip that is made to be a voltage sensor/monitor for up to 80V: http://www.linear.com/product/LTC2945
This is one way of getting the A to sense voltages that are larger than it can handle. You should also look up "Cirius V/I sensor" and although it's only rated for 50V/90A you might be able to get in touch with a manufacturer and ask them about making a batch for higher amperage. Or at the very least you can get an idea of how to build one yourself. Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/APM2-5-APM-...sor-50v-90A-/130958938102?hash=item1e7dc2cff6) is another 50V/90A sensor, apparently for use in RC models.
The amp meter mentioned in the previous post comes with it's own sensor. That means that it's sensor can potentially be used with the A to measure/log amp (those sensors can be got separately) as long as their output is 5V or under. You'll have to double check that.
 
Here is a forum thread related to what you are looking for: http://www.eevblog.com/forum/microcontrollers/arduino-voltmeter-and-ammeter/
In it there is a link to a microchip that is made to be a voltage sensor/monitor for up to 80V: http://www.linear.com/product/LTC2945
This is one way of getting the A to sense voltages that are larger than it can handle. You should also look up "Cirius V/I sensor" and although it's only rated for 50V/90A you might be able to get in touch with a manufacturer and ask them about making a batch for higher amperage. Or at the very least you can get an idea of how to build one yourself. Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/APM2-5-APM-...sor-50v-90A-/130958938102?hash=item1e7dc2cff6) is another 50V/90A sensor, apparently for use in RC models.
The amp meter mentioned in the previous post comes with it's own sensor. That means that it's sensor can potentially be used with the A to measure/log amp (those sensors can be got separately) as long as their output is 5V or under. You'll have to double check that.

I'll take a look that once we get the motor. I'm thinking i'm going to have to get a custom ESC made for the electric motor so I might be able to get them to build something in. I did find some decent transducers that record up to 300A that i might use...

on a side note; you guys think I could charge the 48V battery system using one of these?:

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converte...d_cp_23_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WRSCQ0EB1BJWKFAYHD0

How many amps does a standard alternator put out at full load?
 
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I have not had the time yet to read all 14 pages but I have a question/idea. What if using your second alternator idea, you create a small secondary electric system and have a custom regulator made for the alternator to output 24v or higher? That would significantly reduce the amperage draw for one, and completely eliminate any massive draw from the 12v system the rest of the car runs on.
 
I have not had the time yet to read all 14 pages but I have a question/idea. What if using your second alternator idea, you create a small secondary electric system and have a custom regulator made for the alternator to output 24v or higher? That would significantly reduce the amperage draw for one, and completely eliminate any massive draw from the 12v system the rest of the car runs on.

I don't know; I'm juggling the idea of how to properly charge this thing while at the same time building it out.. I would want to have the most non-invasive solution.. I'm sure I can find (Or hire someone to make) the same voltage regular piece but with more amp tolerance for alternators.

That being said... I have a really cool video to show you guys. I've been wiring up sensors to the Arduino and reading values and it's going pretty good. It's going so good that I decided that I wanted to wire a GM MAF sensor in and get some kg/min values our of it (not CFM because CFM relies on temp and I'm not pulling that anywhere... I could theoretically buy a cheap thermometer but I don't want to add any more parts LOL)

Soo.... I'm buying a GM MAF and need to know the values that the voltage represents so...

0v = 0kg/min

3.5v = ?kg/min

5v = ?kg/min

Any body got any ideas on where I could find this info?

EDIT: Actually.. I decided to buy a Bosch 0 281 002 216 MAF that reads 450+ CFM and returns voltage (not pulses like the GM) which makes it easier to read on the Arduino. This site here (http://www.oocities.org/tech4tdi/pages/maf.html) has a chart with voltage readings that I can use to accurately measure cfm... I'll hold off to you guys's reply before I buy though!
 
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I actually watched a youtube video that features a electronic turbo charger developed by volvo for theyre new 2016 models. Dont know if you seen it yet or not, i'll try and find it again, it wasnt released that long ago.

Look up triple boost 450hp 2.0l engine by volvo. They dont replace the standard turbos just add a 3rd electric one to completely eliminate turbo lag....its a brilliant concept really.
 
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I actually watched a youtube video that features a electronic turbo charger developed by volvo for theyre new 2016 models. Dont know if you seen it yet or not, i'll try and find it again, it wasnt released that long ago.

Look up triple boost 450hp 2.0l engine by volvo. They dont replace the standard turbos just add a 3rd electric one to completely eliminate turbo lag....its a brilliant concept really.

I just saw the video and boy I am hyped!

On a side note.. next week I'll be hooking up everything (Except for the electrical motor) and I'll be adding pictures! I have to put in the coolers, wire up the small water pump and take measurements for piping (which should be fairly simple).

On a side note! I created a facebook page for this. Liking the page will help me to show companies that there is interest and possibly; get better deals on parts or even be able to push this out to the market! I need your support.

I'll also be updating this thread continuously.. I know there hasn't been many updates lately but there will be once that motor comes in!
 
We are still moving forward with this!

The electric motor company will be shipping me a motor next week (just finished paying the invoice). They are going to send me a video and pictures soon.

Also.. I figured out how I'm going to measure volts/amps and be able to measure and see exactly what the motor is doing as well as regulate voltage and power. I'm going to be using a shunt and using Ohms law to calculate how much voltage/amps are being used by the motor. I'll upload the videos and pictures in the facebook page!
 
It's possible to use a fluke77 or similar meter to measure amps, volts and the like. Meter across the motor windings while it's running.
 
Well, you're finally getting there. I see that you finally got your motor. I don't have a Facebook account, so it makes it difficult to follow your progress. You should post here more often.

Is that 90,000 RPM @48 volts and 225 amps the KV (no load) rating of the motor? If so, the load of that GT35R compressor wheel will probably drop the RPM to the 70,000 to 75,000 RPM range. That should still be good for around 30 lb/min though.

You may be able to charge those 4 batteries off the stock alternator. The batteries would have to wired in parallel and isolated from each other and from the stock battery. You could isolate the batteries using very high amp diodes (at least 225 amps). You would need 4 of them. Maybe something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300A-NEGATIVE-STUD-MOUNT-DIODE-300AMP-800V-300A-/261201349403

Those diodes will probably get very hot and should be mounted on heat sinks.

The charge rate would be very slow because you're dividing the alternator output between 5 batteries but those lawnmower batteries can't be charged at a high rate anyway (usually about a 6 amp charge rate).

Good luck!

Jim
 
Well, you're finally getting there. I see that you finally got your motor. I don't have a Facebook account, so it makes it difficult to follow your progress. You should post here more often.

Is that 90,000 RPM @48 volts and 225 amps the KV (no load) rating of the motor? If so, the load of that GT35R compressor wheel will probably drop the RPM to the 70,000 to 75,000 RPM range. That should still be good for around 30 lb/min though.

You may be able to charge those 4 batteries off the stock alternator. The batteries would have to wired in parallel and isolated from each other and from the stock battery. You could isolate the batteries using very high amp diodes (at least 225 amps). You would need 4 of them. Maybe something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300A-NEGATIVE-STUD-MOUNT-DIODE-300AMP-800V-300A-/261201349403

Those diodes will probably get very hot and should be mounted on heat sinks.

The charge rate would be very slow because you're dividing the alternator output between 5 batteries but those lawnmower batteries can't be charged at a high rate anyway (usually about a 6 amp charge rate).

Good luck!

Jim

Made a youtube video just for you!

Check it out:
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The latest video, was the motor in it's water cooling jacket? And if so how hot did that water get?

Water didn't get hot, still cool to the touch. After a couple of more tests though; the water did eventually become tepid but that was about it. I'm sure that if I had a fan running in front of the small radiator the water would be cool. Nothing that set off any alarms though!

(Not surprised due to the large 9,800BTU radiator I have cooling that water)
 
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