Get running right first, and basic maintenance done first.

Then follow the posted upgrade path.

You are in my neck of the woods, So welcome!!

vrsf has a really cheap but decent quality FMIC

Being fwd dsmlink will net you the largest gains. The 2-step launch control will be your best friend.

Plus you'll be able to learn to tune a stock car, which is a bit easier then learning on a modified car. On top of that you'll be able to see how your mods effect your tune. Best way to learn.

Boost gauge, wideband, dsmlink would be great first mods.

Why do people think the first things they should get is Vent BOV and a big ass FMIC? Who the hell came up with that...

Listen to the people here they will lead you in the proper direction to a good running reliable car, dont and your car will run like crap and blow up in time.

Do all maintenance, including front steering/suspension like control arms because you can end up with your shock on the axle and car dragging ground if the lower control arm breaks like mine did.

Then ECMLink, AFR, oil pressure and boost gauges THEN start on the engine mods like fmic, bov, exhaust, intake, fuel pump, injectors, evo 16g turbo, boost controller ect...

TiniacosMotorsports said:

Looking for info and parts for the best stock turbo setup. Such as fmic,bov,exhaust,downpipe. And any other helpful mods. 97 eclipse gst 5 speed.

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Buschur racing has a nice upgrade sequence that I recommend going off of.

Because a big Front Mount looks cool, and Vent BOV sounds cool! Who cares if you have to push the car home. Who cares if you never make it to work or school because the car died again. Who cares if it runs like junk. Who cares if you have a tow company on speed dial and they offer you discounts for repeat customer. The one time it may actually run, it looks and sounds cool.

(Warning: this message was filled with sarcasm)

In all seriousness, you can get a lot out of the stock side mount or common practice is a supra side mount. (2) big downfalls to a front mount on a stock car is the drop in PSI from increased volume and it blocks airflow to the radiator and condenser.

And if you do get a different BOV recirculate it, it's plenty loud even recirculated.

If your car is actually running spot on and maint. is good and you have the time and patience and money to keep up with everything start with a 14B swap.

Thanks for all the input. The car is running great. No problems . Replaced all my control arms. The timing belt and oil pump. Car is running great now. Already put 3,000 miles on it. I'm going to keep with the side mount . I'm looking into getting a dsmlink, boost gauge, wideband, boost controller, and later on I'm looking for some bc 272 cams with aem gears. But I'm a take it slow with the build at the moment.

What would you all suggest for fuel upgrades? With the t25? Injectors and pump?

You'll need some sort of tuner, like link, to increase the fuel and you should look into a fuel pump rewire.

Are you determined to stick with the T25?

I ran aluminum side mout IC pipe setup on my t25 with a greddy style bov. (All of which I have for sale) I didn't like the look of the stock intercooler piping and wanted something more solid. I was running 13-14psi on it with 0 problems.
I was also running a walbro 190 lph

You are pushing that turbo pretty hard at stock levels. If you want a stock appearing turbo, the T-28 is a great choice with room to grow. Of course, there are those that will say just to get a 14b because they are cheaper.
Here are good supporting mods other than maintainance:

• Boost gauge
• Wideband o2 sensor
• ECMLink or (SAFC)
• EVO 8/9 fuel pump
• Rewire fuel pump
• EVO 8/9 fuel injectors
• EVO 3 exhaust/o2 housing
• EVO 3 intake manifold
• EVO MR bypass valve (direct swap)
• Exhaust of choice. (RRE dp with EVO o2 housing)
• Intake of choice.
• Upgraded side mount intercooler (harder to find) Hahn, Dejon, and Bullseye. Much less pressure drop and stealthy.
• Manual or solenoid boost controller (ECMLink)

Other good upgrades not for power:

• Kiggly HLA
• B&M short shifter or similar
• Shift cable and base bushings
• Poly motor mounts
• Better clutch. Brand is up to you.
• LSD (Quaife/Wavetrac) for FWD would be the best upgrade aside from ECMLink.

This is a pretty safe setup that will deliver fun for a daily driver with great response in the low/mid torque range. Feel free to pick and choose what you want from this list as it is just a suggestion.

Don't count on RRE making you an Evo III DP.. And if you're looking for an upgraded smic I know a member on here selling one.

On my 90 gst with the stock 14b turbo I changed out the intercooler pipes with aluminium ones, added a boost gauge, wideband 02, manual boost controller, 3" intake, 3" gm maf with maft in blow through setup, 3" downpipe with a 1' section of 3" stainless steel pipe with a muffler attached to it(basically no more then a 3" downpipe with no drone), then lastly a safc 2 to dial it in. I was also running 17 psi with no problems on the stock fuel setup, the car pulled strong it would slowly pull on a stock evo.

The mk4 supra smic is said to be the most efficient side mount you can get. But they are getting so difficult to find/expensive in good shape that it makes more sense to go with vrsf.

Poly motor mounts suck unless you plan to race, they transfer a s**t ton of vibration into the car that gets really annoying. I would go insane if I had poly mounts in my daily driver, one of my cars has a poly main motor mount and the rest are filled and it really gets to me. Ive been isolating which interior pieces are vibrating and adding foam window/door sealing pieces to quite them down. Best bet is to fill the stock mounts with silicone along with the carrier bearings.

You can run 17psi on stock fuel with a 1g but I wouldn't without a larger fuel pump, at the least a rewire. I wouldn't with a 2g. The t25 isn't going to run very efficient at 17psi and the 2g motor has higher compression than a 1g. 7.8:1 vs 8.5:1.

If you do any mods the clutch will go rather quickly. I have tried act, comp, and southbend and would prefer the southbend but it depends on your goals. Tim from TMZ performace goes by twicks69 has good deals on the southbend clutches and is an active member on this site.

Just get link, boost gauge, and wideband set up. I wouldn't worry about anything until then. Thats quite a project on its own and a good bit of cash. Take it slow or it will end up on jackstands for the next two years.

TehRiceBandit said:

Are you determined to stick with the T25?

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Yes. I wanna stick with it . Wanna try do stay on stock turbo

My gst is my daily driver. And I'm just trying to take it slow till I can get a gsx then I'll go a little bit bigger with the build. I'll get the link ,boost controller, wideband , fuel system, new piping , and a different side mount. And see where that puts me. Any suggestions on brands ?

Hallman makes a good manual boost controller. The lc-1 from Innovate is a solid wideband that works well with all tuners. Your fuel system will be fine for now with a fuel pump rewire.

If you haven't done it yet there is a free mod you can do . there is a restrictor on one off the boost solenoid ports that you can remove . the solenoid is on the passenger side front frame rail . you can use a screw to pull it out . removing it will give you a little more boost .

E85

I honestly don't see a point in link if your going to run the t25 unless you want to practice tuning. The t25 is pushing its efficiency at 15psi and the stock 2g side mount will heat soak after 1st-2nd gear @ 15psi and link isn't going to help you with that. If your gonna run the stock turbo/intercooler link would be the last thing on my list. You wont need link until you decide to go with a bigger turbo which will require a better intercooler, larger fuel pump/injectors, wideband, and fuel pressure regulator. If those are your plans then link would be a good idea bc your going to need it eventually. If your gonna stay with the stock turbo/intercooler you don't need link, it would be a choice of you wanting to mess with tuning. Tuning is going to require some research, trial and error, and probably some dyno tuning.

TSi-Rocket said:

I honestly don't see a point in link if your going to run the t25 unless you want to practice tuning. The t25 is pushing its efficiency at 15psi and the stock 2g side mount will heat soak after 1st-2nd gear @ 15psi and link isn't going to help you with that. If your gonna run the stock turbo/intercooler link would be the last thing on my list. You wont need link until you decide to go with a bigger turbo which will require a better intercooler, larger fuel pump/injectors, wideband, and fuel pressure regulator. If those are your plans then link would be a good idea bc your going to need it eventually. If your gonna stay with the stock turbo/intercooler you don't need link, it would be a choice of you wanting to mess with tuning. Tuning is going to require some research, trial and error, and probably some dyno tuning.

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Sorry but I completely disagree with this. First hes fwd which makes launch control one of the most important mods he'll do.

Second, a stock car is the best to learn on. Much more forgiving. Plus when you add mods, even exhaust/intake, you can see how they effect your mod. Thats the best way to learn in my opinion. Theres a steep learning curve initially so why not learn on a stock car, and with the conservative stock tunes there is some power to be squeezed out in a tune alone. Plus he wants to upgrade later on.

Third i went 12's on a 14b and stock side mount and know others have gone faster.

Fourth, you cant install a bigger turbo and fuel system without link, so your mod progression is a bit backwards. I guarantee his car will be faster with the t25 and link then an untuned 16g with no supporting mods. 13's should be easy on link alone.

91stocker said:

Third i went 12's on a 14b and stock side mount and know others have gone faster.

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Video, slips, mod list?