I envy your financial situation. =/

Changed the question , kinda thinking out loud, and its not that awesome, I probably could not afford the dsm rebuild and if I went fiesta then I would have to finance it. They would level out.

So much Indiana! You guys need to come to our monthly meets in Fort Wayne

I don't think its going to do much for you to be honest. The small remedies to bring down engine bay temps don't really do much on a daily driven car. I don't have any concrete scientific evidence or anything but you cant tell a difference after 10+ minutes between a car that has lost of heat prep vs none. Doing a drag pass absolutely you can tell a difference but a heat soaked bay not really. Don't forget that you have about 500 lbs of aluminum and iron in there at 200+ degrees at all times so not much you can do. The best thing for you to probably do is to get a huge oil cooler for the trans and move to open air flow like behind one of the ducts next to the fog lights and then do the same for the engine oil filter housing using a Evo 3 one or sandwich plate style external. That's really the only way to keep the oil temps down for long periods of time.

redi4axion said:

I don't think its going to do much for you to be honest. The small remedies to bring down engine bay temps don't really do much on a daily driven car. I don't have any concrete scientific evidence or anything but you cant tell a difference after 10+ minutes between a car that has lost of heat prep vs none. Doing a drag pass absolutely you can tell a difference but a heat soaked bay not really. Don't forget that you have about 500 lbs of aluminum and iron in there at 200+ degrees at all times so not much you can do. The best thing for you to probably do is to get a huge oil cooler for the trans and move to open air flow like behind one of the ducts next to the fog lights and then do the same for the engine oil filter housing using a Evo 3 one or sandwich plate style external. That's really the only way to keep the oil temps down for long periods of time.

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I made a custom heat shield for my turbular manifold and no matter what I do. I or any one else can firmly grasp my turbo j-pipe. So I don't think your completely correct.

redi4axion said:

I don't think its going to do much for you to be honest. The small remedies to bring down engine bay temps don't really do much on a daily driven car. I don't have any concrete scientific evidence or anything but you cant tell a difference after 10+ minutes between a car that has lost of heat prep vs none. Doing a drag pass absolutely you can tell a difference but a heat soaked bay not really. Don't forget that you have about 500 lbs of aluminum and iron in there at 200+ degrees at all times so not much you can do. The best thing for you to probably do is to get a huge oil cooler for the trans and move to open air flow like behind one of the ducts next to the fog lights and then do the same for the engine oil filter housing using a Evo 3 one or sandwich plate style external. That's really the only way to keep the oil temps down for long periods of time.

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I have heard that you lose compression with carbon build up on your valves, since I drive on low boost, at 8:5 compression with 93 octane, I have a lot of unburned fuel? Most 87 octane cars run at 8:5, my GF's turbo Cruze is 10:1 turbo and runs on 87 , now I know it has to do with timing too but my computer is what it is ha. My 3000gt NA DOHC had 10:1 compression and called for 93 octane too because it always ran at the higher pressures. So I liked the idea of "cleaning" my head's and valves so they seat better. But the temps are high, not high for a dsm by any means but in comparison with an NA car like my 3000, it's like opening an oven door vs opening your hood and you can feel a little heat. So with the tranny ageing, and being the same auto FA33 that the 3000 had before I manual swapped it due to failure, probably from heat, I don't want it to happen to my eclipse's FA33 and I am never tranny swapping again .

FT. Wayne is a bit of a trek but it there is a big dsm turn out/events you guys hold then I am there!

rambow70 said:

FT. Wayne is a bit of a trek but it there is a big dsm turn out/events you guys hold then I am there!

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Usually 15-20 of us every month. Sometimes more

Here on my 1g in California I put a front mount on and a carbon fiber hood that has vents, and since have never seen my engine even go above half

You guys are way over thinking this. If the coolant temps are staying stable youre fine. If you want to control localized heat for airflow purposes then do so. Are you trying to control in cylinder heat? If so for what purpose? What problem are you trying to solve? That is the question thst needs to be asked. What I read sounds like a solution without a problem or at least not anything objective.

tylersevo said:

So much Indiana! You guys need to come to our monthly meets in Fort Wayne

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Where in Indiana? I'm in Illinois but I'll drive!

2G Josh said:

Where in Indiana? I'm in Illinois but I'll drive!

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Fort Wayne. This Sunday I'm hosting a pool party/cookout! Anyone on here in the area that wants to come pm me for details or check out ClubDiamondStar on Facebook.

pauleyman said:

You guys are way over thinking this. If the coolant temps are staying stable youre fine. If you want to control localized heat for airflow purposes then do so. Are you trying to control in cylinder heat? If so for what purpose? What problem are you trying to solve? That is the question thst needs to be asked. What I read sounds like a solution without a problem or at least not anything objective.

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To steam clean my valves, keep the block cooler to not burn as much oil (not that it does), and to keep the block a little cooler so my FA33 doesn't fail due to heat, which a lot of auto's do. They are connected to each other ha so cutting the heat on one will keep the other cooler. Plus cool my intake charge, would clean my valves, no need for larger inter cooler (more lag), burns fuel cleaner, and less likely to overheat in the event it would. Another purpose of the valves being clean is compression again. People pay a lot to get their valves cut at 3 to 4 different angles to have them seat better. So why not just clean up my carbon deposits and whaalaa, better seating vales. And no to the front mount and vents. I want my car as stock as possible. I might just get a tranny cooler but there is no room, oil cooler will help temps but not with the valves, intake temps, and cleaner burns.

rambow70 said:

To steam clean my valves, keep the block cooler to not burn as much oil (not that it does), and to keep the block a little cooler so my FA33 doesn't fail due to heat, which a lot of auto's do. They are connected to each other ha so cutting the heat on one will keep the other cooler. Plus cool my intake charge, would clean my valves, no need for larger inter cooler (more lag), burns fuel cleaner, and less likely to overheat in the event it would. Another purpose of the valves being clean is compression again. People pay a lot to get their valves cut at 3 to 4 different angles to have them seat better. So why not just clean up my carbon deposits and whaalaa, better seating vales. And no to the front mount and vents. I want my car as stock as possible. I might just get a tranny cooler but there is no room, oil cooler will help temps but not with the valves, intake temps, and cleaner burns.

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Well I can see some flaws there. It wont keep your block cooler or your trans cooler. I still say youre solving a problem that isnt a problem but it wont hurt anything and it will give you the charge temp changes. If youte not planning a front mount you have room for a secondary trans cooler if you wanted one. for what its worth my 90 awd 5spd went 200k and never used any oil. I never had the motor opened. leaked some which I did address but thats it.

pauleyman said:

Well I can see some flaws there. It wont keep your block cooler or your trans cooler. I still say youre solving a problem that isnt a problem but it wont hurt anything and it will give you the charge temp changes. If youte not planning a front mount you have room for a secondary trans cooler if you wanted one. for what its worth my 90 awd 5spd went 200k and never used any oil. I never had the motor opened. leaked some which I did address but thats it.

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It doesn't burn any oil yet, or turn colors but I just don't want that to change. The transmission however is starting to show symptoms of my old FA33, I could mount the cooler on the opposite side of the stock inter cooler but it would have to be small and have the plumbing stretch across from the stock radiator position is. Plus I was thinking of rebuilding my t25 or going t28 on stock fuel, but doing a full car stock restoration so new 450 oem injectors but a walbro 255hp pump so to compensate for a larger inter cooler, the meth injection was my route (pretty much max the power with stock injectors but being stock daily in mind, so power really isn't the main goal if I went t28 since people say it isn't a big upgrade, which is good for my "restoration" plan. I don't know if I want to rebuild it all or just get a Fiesta ST. I guess if it's not broken, don't fix it. Would just be cool to see one of these guys running around in 10 years untouched, instead of this generation entry level fwd turbo cars.

My car is largely untouched. Sounds like you want modded but you dont want modded. You need a plan for the car.