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1G FP Green install issue. Water line?

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Maxthepersonz

Supporting VIP
350
62
Feb 3, 2014
Madison, Wisconsin
So guys I am working on getting my new FP Green on my 1g because I want to get it running within the next few days. With my big 16g I always ran it water cooled from the water pipe, however the FP green is much larger and the line doesn't reach around to the front of the turbo quite all the way no matter what I do.

Should I?
1. Make an AN line from the water pipe to the turbo
2. Cut the current line and extend it slightly with some hose and put clamps on it
3. Plug the holes and just run it on oil? I don't know much about this but have ran into people saying they do it. Pros cons?

I called FP and asked some questions just now trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. The lady told me the OEM water line should actually work as it is, and she has done it personally and so have many others. Is there a difference between that line on a 1991 and other year 1gs? I swear its not long enough BARELY... I have tried bending it however.
 
We're in the same boat. I seriously doubt i'll be running coolant to my new Black. I ran a PTE 5558 pretty damn hard for 4500 miles and it's in mint condition. PTE jb turbos don't have water provisions on the chra. Don't think holsets or borgs do either. Just don't run it hard and shut the engine off. Allow a little cruise time to cool the oil a bit. So many JB turbos run without coolant. I can't find a reason to run the lines personally but i may do it.
I can't answer your question though, i have a 2g and i haven't owned anything but a t25 and a PTE.
 
I had similar issues when installing my tdo6 20g. If I recall correctly, I was able to pull up on the water line with one hand and start to thread in the banjo bolt with the other. When I tightened down the banjo bolt, the line was able to bend enough to fit properly. But like you said its a VERY tight fit. The water line makes contact with the compressor housing but everything works as it should.
 
I'm in the same boat brother ... Just received my FP Black and was thinking about the water line. I want to fab some with AN fitting but I know I'll have clearance issue on the cartridge when using banjo 14x1.5mm to 04an ... Pretty sure the hose end will not clear the chra when you'll try to screw them on ...

I've read on other threads on tuners that -04 line would be fine ...

I just blew my 14b, wasn't running any water ... My oil was getting hot 220*F and my water at 200*. When pushing the car I was seeing 230*F oil temp, I run an external oil cooler and just added a 8" fan on it but haven't tested it since ...

I don't want my adapter to rust so I was thinking about going aluminum. Like this adaptor : http://m.ebay.com/itm/14mm-to-4AN-Banjo-Fitting-M14-to-4AN-/151763237850?nav=SEARCH

But I think I'll try to find an ss banjo bolt ... The aluminum one aren't really ported ... I don't know man I need advice LOL ;)
 
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DSM4LIFE:
At your oil temps you are FAR away from coking problems. That seems like some very tame oil temperature, IMO.
I believe oil coking happens at ~ 600*F while synthetics may be even higher. See, my understanding is that if you pound on it then the EGTs naturally increase causing the mani and hotside along with the chra to increase rapidly in temp as well.
So long as oil is flowing through it it's not going to sit there and rise past 600*, LOL, if it did other shit is going down too! So if ya flog it real good and park it with a steamy 900 degree mani then that oil is gonna get hot in the chra and cause some coking.
Watch the egt's. When you're cruising they're down way low. Idling is even lower.

Water cooling it should allow you to beat on it then shut it off. Just natural convection of heat SHOULD take the chra down quite a bit.
 
Yeah my friend I understand that ... Seriously I would like to know what FP has to say about that. I don't really road race but things happen when I see v8 or a boosted honda haha :)

I would have like to receive it with a different chra and never tought about water ... I'm just nervous about running my new turbo after spending that much. I also ordered the manifold like you did and a punishment o2 with a Tial ... ;)

Will they apply warranty if something happen and they see I'm not running any water ?

You see where I'm getting at ?
 
The warranty thing? Boy...... yea, you gotta have water running to it, you have to have perfect pressure and volume, you have to run their brand inline oil filter, you can't "abuse" it and on and on.
They are reputable but how are you gonna prove everything was perfect? They don't make a "turbos for life" deal haha.
Also you must purchase their 4AN oil filter at the same time as the turbo itself from what i read on their site. I ordered last week so i'm already screwed.

Not worried about a relatively cheap turbo. If it's defective i'll know within 100 miles. Then, if they don't warranty it? Well, that's on them. I'll live.

I will be making a new thread when everthing is finished up and let you know how it goes. If FP has a superduperspecial CHRA that needs water then i will find a way to run water to it for sure. Until then i will run it like most JBs and idle it down before i park it. High zinc synthetic oil, big ass drain, straight 4AN feed. I'll keep ya posted and you do the same

Take care bro

*Oh, and i was more addressing you post on your oil temps before. Just didn't know if you were aware what temps oil typically runs. You are in the green. Way safe in the department.
 
Thank you very much brother :)

I didn't buy the filter since I'm feeding from the ofh ... I guess I'm already screw about warranty because there's no way I'm paying for that inline filter. If I was feeding from the head I would have run one but I don't see why I would want one when feeding from the ofh.

Cheap turbo ... Well 950$ isn't that much but I can't afford to buy 2 this summer. The girl friend would kill me haha. I'm already running brad penn oil so zinc isn't a probleme ;)
 
Hahaha, yea i hear ya. My wife stopped asking what was in these boxes showing up lately. I looked at one and said that tiny box? That's $900 right there. 4 injectors baby LOL

Here's my brutal opiinion of the superhandydandy inline filter and i'm gonna catch flak: I think it's more of a liability than a benefit. yup, i said it. That puppy clogs even half way then A) You're turbo is toast, fast and B) your oil filter must be shit
I think it's safer to have full flow, full pressure even IF a few particulates get in there than it is to accidentally not disassembly your inline filter, fire it up, then starve the turbo of oil. The damage is gonna be greater with no oil or very limited oil.
That's not that popular i'm sure. I could be dead wrong but my "junk" 1,000 dollar PTE lasted just fine without an inline filter fed right off the OFH(I'm 2g as well).
 
So guys I am working on getting my new FP Green on my 1g because I want to get it running within the next few days. With my big 16g I always ran it water cooled from the water pipe, however the FP green is much larger and the line doesn't reach around to the front of the turbo quite all the way no matter what I do.

Should I?
1. Make an AN line from the water pipe to the turbo
2. Cut the current line and extend it slightly with some hose and put clamps on it
3. Plug the holes and just run it on oil? I don't know much about this but have ran into people saying they do it. Pros cons?

I personally went with #1. I did screw around with trying to bend and tweak the OEM line to fit for a while but just couldn't get it quite right. Just a couple adapters and a few hose ends to get a nice flowing line that can be removed without have to replace crush washers each time.
 
I personally went with #1. I did screw around with trying to bend and tweak the OEM line to fit for a while but just couldn't get it quite right. Just a couple adapters and a few hose ends to get a nice flowing line that can be removed without have to replace crush washers each time.

Dude what adapter did you use ? Straight male 14x1.5mm to -04 AN male on the chra ? Then a 90* -04AN hose end on the back of the turbo ? Did you went with Banjo to -04AN ?

Please let me know :)

Thanks

Hahaha, yea i hear ya. My wife stopped asking what was in these boxes showing up lately. I looked at one and said that tiny box? That's $900 right there. 4 injectors baby LOL

Here's my brutal opiinion of the superhandydandy inline filter and i'm gonna catch flak: I think it's more of a liability than a benefit. yup, i said it. That puppy clogs even half way then A) You're turbo is toast, fast and B) your oil filter must be sh**
I think it's safer to have full flow, full pressure even IF a few particulates get in there than it is to accidentally not disassembly your inline filter, fire it up, then starve the turbo of oil. The damage is gonna be greater with no oil or very limited oil.
That's not that popular i'm sure. I could be dead wrong but my "junk" 1,000 dollar PTE lasted just fine without an inline filter fed right off the OFH(I'm 2g as well).

I hear ya man take a look at my build and you'll see I have too much invested and still stock block LOL ;)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm4life-awd-jdm-gsr-4-91-build-thread.470307/
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dude what adapter did you use ? Straight male 14x1.5mm to -04 AN male on the chra ? Then a 90* -04AN hose end on the back of the turbo ? Did you went with Banjo to -04AN ?

Please let me know :)

Thanks

Are we talking about the same line? I used the factory line on the "back" of the turbo(as it is mounted in the car). The one I made custom was the U-shaped line on a 1G that connects on the front of the turbo, then loops under and connects to the water pipe. I used straight adapters on the turbo and water pipe. I used -6 or -8 AN though. I thought 4 was too small. For hose ends, I used a 90* where it connects to the turbo, and i think i used a 45* where it connects to the water pipe. I remember it being a tight fit in there so it may have been a 30* or 60* fitting.
 
For my setup I deleted the fiav on the throttle body, and ran waterlines from the fiav feed and return to barb fittings mounted to the turbo with banjo bolts. This is with a non turbo water pipe, and thermostat housing. You want to clock the center housing so the water ports are about 20* off horizontal, with the return higher. The reason water lines are run is to prevent heat soak on engine shutdown from coking oil in the turbo.

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turb...iles/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf
 
Thanks for the help guys :)

I decided to run water and have an other question ... Since I deleted the heater core, fiav and turbo water' lines on my old setup I have this bypass :
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If I plumb my feed line from the thermostat housing, will it really push coolant in the turbo since my return is connected to the water pipe with this bypass ? I can plumb my turbo return in the radiator end tank since I welded bung on each tank. It's an Afco 2 pass so I was thinking about plumbing my return in the end opposite side of the 16an. Would that work ?

Should I remove the by pass I have and force all water to pass in the turbo ?

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I know it's the same post as my build thread but I would have like to see this to save some time ...

Here's my new setup ... Haven't start the car yet since I finished last sunday and it's been crazy at the shop. I plan to hit the dyno this time ...

Gasket was shot so I putted a new oem 4 layers, fit way better than the MrCopper one I had for spare.
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Here's my new manifold coated and ported by FP
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Decided to go with the FP Black, putted braided line for the coolant. I had to stack 3 copper washer on the rear of the turbo to use a banjo or the hose end wasn't clearing the chra. You'll see in the pics ;)
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And finally a Punishment Racing o2 housing recirculated :)
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I know it's the same post as my build thread but I would have like to see this to save some time ...

Here's my new setup ... Haven't start the car yet since I finished last sunday and it's been crazy at the shop. I plan to hit the dyno this time ...

Gasket was shot so I putted a new oem 4 layers, fit way better than the MrCopper one I had for spare.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here's my new manifold coated and ported by FP
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Decided to go with the FP Black, putted braided line for the coolant. I had to stack 3 copper washer on the rear of the turbo to use a banjo or the hose end wasn't clearing the chra. You'll see in the pics ;)
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And finally a Punishment Racing o2 housing recirculated :)
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Holy crap, Pat, you have been WORKING, brother! That looks amazing! That's the 1G right?
 
If you're using a FP manifold, that's likely your problem...it places the turbo in a slightly-different location where the stock hard metal line may not reach. Cut the line and add a piece of hose, or don't run coolant at all- I've not given any MHI turbo I've installed/run coolant since about 2008 and they're all still alive.
 
I know it's the same post as my build thread but I would have like to see this to save some time ...

Here's my new setup ... Haven't start the car yet since I finished last sunday and it's been crazy at the shop. I plan to hit the dyno this time ...

Gasket was shot so I putted a new oem 4 layers, fit way better than the MrCopper one I had for spare.
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Here's my new manifold coated and ported by FP
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Decided to go with the FP Black, putted braided line for the coolant. I had to stack 3 copper washer on the rear of the turbo to use a banjo or the hose end wasn't clearing the chra. You'll see in the pics ;)
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And finally a Punishment Racing o2 housing recirculated :)
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I know it's an old thread any issues stacking crush washers? I'm having issues with my banjo bolt not clearing the lower plug on my fp green and either I'm going an or justing a barb fitting just not sure the line will make the loop under the compressor housing.

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I know it's an old thread any issues stacking crush washers? I'm having issues with my banjo bolt not clearing the lower plug on my fp green and either I'm going an or justing a barb fitting just not sure the line will make the loop under the compressor housing.

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Cant you just move the plug to the one your trying to go to? Shouldnt move the line too much out of place.

I totally get water cooling these turbos, but after being in the diesel world and not seeing a single water cooled charger makes me 2nd guess it all.

Im with justin on this one, If I rip out another turbo on my DSM's, im not going to mess with coolant lines anymore. So many turbos out there, and so few of them are water cooled.
 
Cant you just move the plug to the one your trying to go to? Shouldnt move the line too much out of place.

I totally get water cooling these turbos, but after being in the diesel world and not seeing a single water cooled charger makes me 2nd guess it all.

Im with justin on this one, If I rip out another turbo on my DSM's, im not going to mess with coolant lines anymore. So many turbos out there, and so few of them are water cooled.
Nope different size and thread. I heard that from a few local DSM guys also. My fp green is ball bearing though and I'd like to keep it happy as long as possible LOL
 
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